Sydney Eat Street: Best sweet and savoury foods to enjoy this winter
The cold weather really calls for comfort food and what’s better than dessert? From cinnamon buns to creme brulee, grab a fork and cosy up to these winter warming desserts from restaurants and cafes around Sydney.
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FIKA SWEDISH KITCHEN
Trading the snowfields in Sweden for the sandy beaches of Manly, friends and fellow Swedes Sophie Curl, Linda Stanes and Diana Chirilas, opened this warm and welcoming Swedish cafe after noting a gap in the market for the simple foods they missed from home, as well the traditional Fika — which technically translates to “coffee” but colloquially refers to the near-mandatory coffee and a bite to eat with friends.
Five years on and with a second outlet in Bondi, who better to offer some thoughts on winter warmers than this trio of culinary ambassadors.
This time of year makes every Scando feels more at home than ever. Start the day with a hot oat porridge deluxe, covered in salted caramel sauce, nuts, berries and candied banana. Early mornings and late afternoon, with the temperature dropping under 10C, there’s nothing like getting cosy inside with a hot brewed chai and a freshly made bun,” Chirilas says.
At Fika, there are four different buns on offer — cinnamon, vanilla, cardamom and the sun bun, which Curl describes as “a fluffy cardamom bun with a dollop of vanilla custard in the middle … they are traditionally dipped in butter and sugar, but we have changed it up a little with some icing on top”.
To truly appreciate their winter warming powers, grab a friend and sit down for a bite and an aromatic spiced chai.
Curl notes that growing up they “often eat these hot out of the oven”, which helps explains why their cinnamon bun baking kits have been flying off the proverbial shelf.
“They have been very popular this winter. Baking cinnamon buns at home not only makes your home smell wonderful, it’s a great activity to do with family or friends on a cold winter’s day.”
— 5b Market Lane, Manly; 45 Gould St, Bondi Beach; fikaswedishkitchen.com.au
ALCHEMY RESTAURANT
You may banish the chills with a plate of hot food but only winter desserts dusted with a dose of tradition and nostalgia can truly warm the soul.
For Janusz Pawlak, co-owner of Alchemy Polish Cafe Restaurant, it’s their house-made cakes that fit the bill, particularly sernik, a soft-baked cheesecake made with quark, a velvety smooth buttermilk cheese, and quite possibly one of the most popular desserts in Poland.
“When I was growing up sernik was reserved for special occasions only. Normally exclusively for Christmas and Easter,” Pawlak says.
A slice of warm, szarlotka, is also quite pleasing and as he says “is a staple found in every cafe and bakery in Poland. Szarlotka is different than American apple pie in both the crust and the filling and tends to be less sweet”, and of course, best served warm with ice cream.
Further down, you may spy what looks like the ubiquitous vanilla slice, but the one here with two layers of puffed pastry is the blessed Polish version, Krenówka Papieska, or Papal Cream Cake.
It’s said to have been a favourite of Pope John Paul II, as it reminded him of a bakery in his hometown of Wadowice, Poland. Sweet and heartwarming
— 572 Crown St, Surry Hill; alchemy-restaurant.com
ABOVE PAR
Middle Eastern fare has gained quite a bit of momentum amid Sydney’s dining scene of late, and this latest addition brings an added amount of authenticity to the mix.
An all-day CBD eatery, particularly well-suited to the late-night dining scene, Above Par is owners Efe Topuzlu and Ozgur Sefkatli nod to their childhood home and cultural capital of Turkey, Istanbul.
Here you’ll find snacks and staples based on family recipes melded with time-honoured traditions including the popular dessert, Katmer – a crunchy pancake with layers of Kaymak (clotted cream) and pistachios that is served hot straight from the pan.
In addition to being a post-meal indulgence, in Turkey, it’s also a regular breakfast item, as the nuts provide energy and also a common gift from the groom’s family to newlyweds on their wedding day — wishing them a sweet marriage, plus a quick boost of energy after the wedding ceremony. But you can just call it dessert.
— 125 Clarence St, Sydney; aboveparsydney.com.au
THE PICNIC BURWOOD
Piled high and packed with flavour; those are the trademarks of an epic pancake stack. At The Picnic, a charming outdoor cafe situated in the tranquil Burwood Park, head chef Jordan Brogan (Alibi Bar & Kitchen) has nailed it with the Lotus Cookie Caramel Pancake.
Based on the crunchy, slightly caramel-flavoured Belgian biscuit, Lotus Biscoff, Brogan has turned this breakfast into a decadent all-day treat.
“Everyone knows there is no better comfort food than a great stack of warm buttermilk pancakes,” says Brogan, except that is, when they’re banana pancakes layered with warm house-made caramel and Lotus cream, Lotus crumbs and, just in case that isn’t enough to get your adrenaline pumping, a scoop of ice cream.
That should tide you over until spring.
— Burwood Park, Burwood Rd & Park Ave, Burwood; thepicnicburwood.com.au
FLYING FISH
There is beauty in simple things, and at this award-winning restaurant, executive chef Peter Robertson foregoes adornment to let the ingredients speak for themselves. And while that ethos is apparent in the seafood-centric menu, it holds true as well for the desserts on the winter menu, specifically the baked Valrhona chocolate pudding, rum and raisin ice cream.
“This baked chocolate pudding is rich and warm, and combined with the rum and raisin ice-cream – this whole dessert warms you up from the inside,” says Robertson.
Simply an ideal winter dessert.
— The Star, Level G, Harbourside, 80 Pyrmont Rd, Pyrmont; star.com.au
THE BOTANIST
The classic chocolate brownie gets some winter bling at this Kirribilli restaurant situated on a corner of a lovely leafy neighbourhood.
Served warm with peanut and almond praline, this dessert gets better and better as the vanilla bean ice cream melts in with the dark chocolate sauce. Yum.
— 17 Willoughby St, Kirribilli; thebotanist.com.au
SoCAL
There’s a chillaxed vibe at this sunny Southern California bar and diner.
The meats are cooked low ‘n’ slow; the hot sauces go best with beer, and the rooftop terrace is fully lounge-worthy.
But when that order of churros comes to the table, bringing with it the alluring scent of warm brown sugar, all calm subsides as the competition heats up for the last remnant of the warm dulce de leche.
— 1 Young St, Neutral Bay; socalsydney.com.au
CROSSROADS BAR AT SWISSÔTEL SYDNEY
For those that prefer their desserts on the savoury side, winter brings with the epic option with the ooey-gooey cheese fondue.
This winter you can enjoy the Swiss classic with a blend of Gruyère, Emmental and Comte cheeses along with cornichons, baguette bread and other accoutrements.
But if you still need something sweet on the side, add an Australian Angel cakes, Swissôtel’s take on a Swiss Roll — coconut sponge and mousse with raspberry gel and white chocolate. ($36pp. Available through to August 31, 2020)
— Swissôtel Sydney, Level 8, 68 Market St., Sydney; swissotelsydney.com.au
FRANCA BRASSERIE
It’d be easy to refer to Franca as a French Brasserie but at this chic sun-drenched Potts Point restaurant, the favoured term is “open-style eating” in that it touches on the many regions of France as well as its Mediterranean neighbours, all while championing local suppliers and embracing Sydney’s multicultural influences.
A perfect reflection of that bold brief is the passionfruit souffle with almond craquelin and popcorn ice cream from Franca Brasserie’s pastry chef Travin De Hoedt.
A French dessert with a uniquely Australian fruit — which also happens to be one of his favourite flavours — De Hoedt says that this souffle has a different appeal in winter “as it’s cooked to order and served warm”, which when you’re feeling a chill, the first thing you’ll notice is the heat. (Actually, it’d be the second thing you’d notice as the presentation is picture perfect)
While it looks quite dense and filling, De Hoedt notes that “it’s light as a cloud” save for the crunch from the almond and popcorn. Tres Magnifique.
— 81 Macleay St, Potts Point; francabrasserie.com.au
PRINCE OF YORK
It may be nice and toasty inside but brave the cold and head to this CBD hot spot for a little warming up from the inside with the Boozy Tiramisu.
Prince of York’s head chef Sam Bull (Icebergs, North Bondi Italian) said: “Our tiramisu is a pretty traditional one, using Savoiardi biscuits (Ladyfingers) and mascarpone zabaglione (Italian custard),” he says.
“The point of difference though is in the boozy element — the combination of Marsala, Brandy and Strega (an orange-flavoured Italian liqueur) gives it a fragrant floral note on the pallet. Smothered in proper decadent Dutch cocoa powder, it’s the perfect winter treat.”
— 18 York St, Sydney; princeofyork.com.au
BISTRO PAPILLON
While it’s a treat all year round, creme brulee, the classic French dessert of rich custard topped with a hardened caramelised sugar seems particularly suited to winter, considering that it takes a mini-flamethrower to finish off this coveted dessert.
Whether it’s the theatrics of the sugar bubbling under the heat of a butane torch and the solid crack of a spoon breaking through the crystalline top layer or the subtle vanilla flavour of the slightly warmed custard, this dessert takes top billing in cold weather.
— 98 Clarence St, Sydney; bistropapillon.com.au
EDITION COFFEE ROASTERS
Some days, you can’t quite put your finger on what type of dessert it is that you’ve been craving.
Since it’s cold, you may want something hot, but not scalding; filling, but not heavy; sweet but not saccharine. Oh, and it’d be great if it were pretty as well.
That’s quite the tick list but the good news is that it exists and it’s a Japanese souffle pancake.
Taking fine-dining techniques and applying a Japanese influence on a familiar cafe menu, owner Daniel Jackson and his team have perfected this light-as-air treat.
“It’s warm, it’s soft, it’s pillowy,” he says.
And while you could share, one bite and you’ll be pulling that plate closer to your turf.
While the souffle itself is always on the menu, the fillings and flavours change with the season but expect creations such as Earl Gray mousse with an apricot centre, topped with dehydrated raspberries and micro-herbs; pistachio cream and elderflower; or vanilla and white chocolate ganache with strawberries.
It’s like a warm spring day served up on a sleek black plate. (Edition Coffee Roasters reopens late July)
— 60 Darling Dr, Haymarket; editioncoffeeroasters.com
WINTER WARMERS-SAVOURY AND SWEET
HAKATA-MARU RAMEN
It’s pleasantly warm at this Japanese ramen eatery but even indoors, ribbons of steam rise from the large bowls of soup being brought out to the tables; it’s an element that isn’t lost on owner Hide Tsuboi.
Prior to taking up residence in Darling Square he’d been offered a premium spot in a nearby food court but turned it down — one reason being that he’d have to use takeaway bowls rather than the proper ceramics ones that retain heat.
By the looks of the full restaurant and the queue outside, it appears he made the right call.
Of course, it’s not just the bowl, but really what’s in it and here, the signature item is the Hakata-style ramen — thin, straight noodles served al dente and in a pork bone broth.
“Winter calls for soup dishes especially tonkotsu (pork bone broth) with its creamy and rich flavour,” Tsuboi says.
It’s delicious, but it’s also a very labour intensive 36-hour process that alternates soaking and high-heat simmering the bones to break it down to a milky colour and consistency.
“tonkotsu is a good source of protein (amino acids), vitamins and minerals,” he says.
Added to that are slices of chashu pork and handful-sized mounds of kikurage mushrooms, bamboo shoots and bean sprouts, shallots and more.
It’s quite a generous serving so you may want to consider sharing it by ordering kaedama, which are extra sides of noodles ($2) to add to the soup as you go.
— 6/8 Nicolle Walk, Haymarket; 1/475 Victoria Ave, Chatswood; facebook.com/hakatamarudarlingsquare
THE GANTRY
“Times they are a-changin’.” Bob Dylan, singer, author and Nobel prize winner wrote that fifty years ago but it’s perfectly apropos today.
For Thomas Gorringe, head chef of hatted Walsh Bay restaurant, The Gantry this has meant an entirely new approach to dining, moving away from the usually a la carte offerings to a tasting menu.
Now, in winter, they’ve taken it one step further and introduced a share menu.
“This is a bit different. Something we’ve never explored in the past,” Gorringe says.
And by different, he also means the massive slab of meat in the middle of the table — 1kg of 2GR Heritage Full Blood Wagyu Marble Score 4.
Served on the bone, Gorringe says: “It’s something if you had two days to cook at home you could definitely achieve it, but why put in all that effort and time and scrubbing pots when you can come here, and we’ve done it for you.”
Of course, it’s not necessarily the clean-up that’s the issue it’s more the way he prepares it.
“We grill it on the charcoal BBQ to get it all nicely coloured up there and get all the fat dripping down on the coals so, you get that nice smokiness and because it is so thick and on the bone, we finish it in the oven so we can get that internal temperature up to a nice medium-rare, let it rest then bring it back to the pan and baste it with lots of butter. And get it all nice and warm again. Butter makes everything better,” he says.
While the plates that normally emerge from the kitchen are meticulously engineered, for him and his team in the kitchen, it’s been a bit fun and exciting too.
“You don’t often get the opportunity to work with a big piece of meat, particularly in this type of setting,” Gorringe says.
“Another change is the inclusion of shared side dishes including, market-fresh vegetable and mashed potatoes. The mash will always be a staple. It’s a go-to thing to have with beef and truffles.”
Staying with the winter theme, he’s also included cauliflower gratin.
“It’s real comforting food and a little bit nostalgic as it’s from my mum’s era of cooking with all the cheese,” he says.
“We’re making the dishes approachable, comfortable, warm and wintry, makes you feel at home.”
One thing that hasn’t changed though is his signature chocolate and dulce de leche dessert, and while you could technically share it, for this dish, a bit of selfishness is in order.
— 11 Hickson Rd, Walsh Bay; thegantry.com.au
OTTO
Twenty years on and this chic restaurant still has customers clamouring for a prime table along the wharf where they can linger over a long lunch or dinner.
While the water view is a bonus, it pales in comparison to the modern Italian fare prepared by head chef Richard Ptacnik.
Having honed his skills in Germany, Switzerland and the Czech Republic, he then worked as former OTTO head chef, James Kidman’s sous chef before being handed the reigns to the kitchen.
While this famous venue is synonymous with Sydney summers, locals and visitors alike are happy to brave the cold for his winter menu, which for him is all about pasta.
“Any shape or size, I find the making of, cooking, and plating up pasta incredibly comforting, Ptacnik says.
“Whether it be at OTTO for a busy Saturday dinner service or at home for my family, pasta is my go-to.”
Fortunately for diners, he doesn’t keep all the good stuff for home as the menu included his personal favourite, spaghetti “carbonara” with braised ham hock, egg yolk, pecorino and black truffles
— Area 8, 6 Cowper Wharf Rd, Woolloomooloo; ottoristorante.com.au
BISTRO ST JACQUES
Casseroles have picked up a less than stellar reputation over the years what with the addition of mince and pre-shredded cheese, making it virtually unrecognisable from its original French version, a cassoulet which is made with slow-cooked meats and white beans.
At Bistro St Jacques in Redfern, they’ve embraced the dish’s fundamental elements but given it a bit of finesse with seasonal and locally sourced produce.
“It’s comfort food with a sophisticated edge,” owner Gary Prebble says.
“For winter nothing satisfies quite like a cassoulet, the great southwest contribution to the French repertoire.
“Our version has confit duck leg and haricot beans braised in stock with garlic pork sausage, speck, pork belly, and a crispy fennel crumb crust.”
It’s available a la carte, or you can make it part of a three-course meal which includes any entree, main and dessert for $65pp.
You’ll definitely want to say “oui” to that deal.
— 96 Pitt St, Redfern; bistrostjacques.com.au
CUCINA ESPRESSO
Growing up around food — whether it was helping out in the kitchen or gathering around the table — brothers and co-owners of this casual Italian eatery, Rocco and Carlo Calauttim know all about cooking to suit the season.
So when the colder months come around, the menu veers away from the lighter fare to feature heartier dishes such as their popular lamb pie.
“It’s a great winter warmer,” Rocco says.
“With wholesome lamb as the main ingredient, it is slow-cooked to perfection with lentils, potato mash, English spinach, porcini mushroom and black truffle then topped with pastry to keep the warmth of the ingredients infused together so that you can enjoy every bite.”
For something a tick less heavy yet still quite filling, they also have a lamb soup, but as Rocco says both dishes are “packed with flavour to keep you warm and humble during this winter season and will not disappoint”.
— 89 Majors Bay Rd, Concord; cucina-espresso.com.au
DELHI PALACE INDIAN CUISINE
“Nothing is as satisfying as a curry to beat cold winter nights,” Delhi Palace’s co-owner Erum Nassar says.
But with dishes made with of a “combination of rich spices which provide depth and bold flavours”, it’s worth bracing the chilly weather to grab a table at this cosy yet elegant restaurant.
While fiery hot may be fine for some, chef Hari has over 25 years of experience in Indian and continental restaurants in India and Australia, creating dishes to match every taste and occasion.
“All curries can be made mild while still retaining the balance flavours to give you the joy and warmth that Indian cuisine offers,” Nassar says.
For bold and bite-sized entrees try the Papdi Chat, garlic prawns, or the succulent Seekh Kofta along with one of their winter curries, such as lamb Rogan josh, chicken korma, beef vindaloo, or Goan fish curry.
“Indian spices like turmeric, cinnamon and ginger are known to have an anti-inflammatory effect and help keep the body’s immune system strong by fighting off infections,” Nassar says.
“No wonder your body just craves warm and soothing curry in the cooler months.”
— 217 Concord Rd, North Strathfield; delhipalace.com.au
CAPRICCIO OSTERIA & BAR
Long family meals with plates of creamy cheese dishes, seafood and handmade pasta are fond memories Michele Rispol, co-owner of Capriccion Osteria has of his childhood in Positano, Italy and it’s those memories that he and his wife (and chef) Nicole Bampton have channelled at this chic Italian restaurant.
While the lovely lemon yellow highlights conjure images of summer sun, Nicole embraces the merits of winter with an emphasis on truffles — everything from truffle fettuccine (pecorino, truffle butter & fresh black truffle from Manjimup, WA, tartufo pizza with mozzarella, sliced potato, porcini mushroom, mixed mushroom and black truffle, and a beef carpaccio with truffle mayonnaise and crispy Jerusalem artichokes, rocket and fresh black truffle.
That should warm you up till spring arrives.
— 159 Norton St, Leichhardt; capriccio.sydney
MRS LIKS
When a home-cooked meal sounds ideal but the thought of cooking is less than appealing, fear not, Mrs Liks is here to help.
The latest culinary endeavour from Justin and Kirsty Maloney, market regulars and the talent behind the former Potts Point’s South-East Asian influenced restaurant and cocktail bar, Jimmy Liks has hit the road with their premium food delivery service.
“One dish that’s proving popular on these wet winter nights — in fact we just ate one tonight ourselves — is our proper deep-dish bechamelly lasagne. It’s been part of our family since the 1970s and we’re still fighting over the crunchy cheesy top,” Justin says.
“Sometimes mum’s food is all you need to warm up on a winter night.”
Another fave on the rotation is their newly launched butter chicken.
It’s rich, velvety, and full of those delicious Indian spices with just a tingle of chilli.
“Perfect tummy-filling dinner on the couch with the family,” he says.
Mrs Liks delivers throughout Sydney (check postcode online) on set days with 48-hour pre-orders.
THE MORRISON BAR & OYSTER ROOM
We all need a reasons to celebrate at the moment and since the silly season is still a ways off, The Morrison Bar & Oyster Room has brought it forward to July with their lunch and dinner Christmas Feasts featuring yuletide favourites.
“As a lad growing up in Yorkshire, the humble pudding was a real treat. A good Yorkie should, be the perfect gravy catcher, the bigger the vessel the more unctuous the experience,” says celebrity chef, Sean Connolly.
Gather the crew and enjoy a three-course meal including oysters, slow roasted meats with all the trimmings and miniature desserts. And because you deserve it, toast with a of Piper-Heidsieck champagne on arrival.
— 225 George St, Sydney; themorrison.com.au
PINO’S VINO E CUCINA
Step out of the cold as Matteo Margiotta’s warmly welcomes you into his family home.
Technically, it’s a restaurant but it’s modelled after his childhood home in Rome — the same pots and pans, the same pictures, the same front door and, of course, the same meals.
Named after this father, it’s only fitting that he serve up some of pop’s winter favourites such as smoked truffle carbonara and truffle tiramisu.
Welcome home. There’s a place set for you at the table.
— 199 Lawrence St, Alexandria; pinosvinoecucina.com.au
KID KYOTO
Head chef Rhys Watson-Lamb adds some spice to his cold-weather fare, Tantanmen-style ramen with chilli oil.
It’s his Japanese take on Sichuan dan dan noodles but only available for lunch on Wednesdays ($15).
— 17-19 Bridge St, Sydney; kidkyoto.com.au
ALIBI BAR & KITCHEN
Soups and stews may be the go-to for warm food but if Brent Morley, executive chef of vegan restaurant, Alibi Bar & Kitchen, has a say in the matter, you may just want to hold out till dessert.
“There’s something about a hot apple crumble with a large dollop of vanilla bean ice cream on a winters day that just makes you feel good. So, we’ve made our own irresistible, 100 per cent plant-based version,” he says.
It’s one of two desserts — the other being a pumpkin chocolate pie — that are featured on eight-course winter tasting menu ($70pp).
— Ovolo Woolloomooloo, 6 Cowper Wharf Rd, Woolloomooloo; alibibar.com.au
LA BOQUERIA
If soups are your go-to, expand your repertoire with this Spanish version, ‘Cocido’ with La Boqueria’s Chorizo, Morcilla and Smoked Butifarra.
“A country home style stew/soup which you can keep re-creating everyday using the same broth.,” says Stuart Weber, La Boqueria’s sales manager.
“Every family and region have their own recipes but you will always find the usual main ingredients; alubias granja (large white beans) or garbanzos (chickpeas), chorizo and morcilla sausage and pork belly along with some seasonal vegetables.
“Perfect to keep the winter chills away.”
— Shop online find stockists: laboqueria.com.au
RITA’S BAR & KITCHEN
Since you escape to the Mediterranean and wait out the winter, head to Rita’s Bar & Kitchen at Cat & Fiddle Hotel instead with a revamped restaurant is reminiscent of a seaside eatery.
Try out their new modern Italian share menu with dishes such as wood-fired baked spinach and ricotta rotolo pasta in tomato sauce or Involtini di Verza – a baked stuffed cabbage filled with beef ragu slow cooked in beef broth and rich tomato sauce with creme fraiche and salsa verde.
“These dishes feel like a big warm hug on a cold winter’s day,” says head chef Arkin Baretto.
“Hearty and full of rich flavours, they will keep out the chill with every delicious mouthful. Comfort food for the soul, made with love in the Rita’s kitchen.”
— The Cat and Fiddle, 456 Darling St, Balmain; catandfiddle.com.au
TANDOORI PALACE
You can practically feel the chill subside as you breathe in the rich aromas of spices and herbs inside this Indian restaurant.
Using traditional recipes, Tandoori Palace has become a favourite for fans of the varied cuisine — be it the hearty potato and lamb or lighter and creamier butter chicken.
With dishes that range from mild to super spicy and meat-centric to vegetarian, it’s an ideal place for a family feast or any other group with picky eaters.
Also, for something a tick more celebratory, there’s also karaoke on offer so you can make it a whole night on the town, but just in one place.
— 86 Oxford St, Darlinghurst; tandooripalace.com.au
CUP & COOK
Have a walk around Kyle Bay then head inside to warm up with a Cheeky Pot Pie — a 12-hour slow-cooked beef cheek in red wine with winter vegetables and mushroom, topped with crisp puff pastry lid.
For something a bit spicier, try the Huevos Rancheros — eggs baked in lightly spiced capsicum and tomato “ranchero” sauce with black beans, lime and warm tortilla.
— 5/25-31 Kyle Pde, Kyle Bay; cupandcook.com.au
CLUB PARRAMATTA
Better than a pair of mittens, a hot glass of mulled wine with cognac, cloves, star anise, and cinnamon or will keep you toasty warm during the club’s Christmas festivities through July 31.
If you prefer something chillier though, there is the spiced cocktail with bourbon, cinnamon syrup and ginger beer (Friday-Sunday).
You can enjoy a festive feast of slow roasted half-duck, root vegetables, broccolini and cherry jus; or pork belly, crackling, cream apple slaw, celeriac mash, and maple bacon.
Finish that with male a chocolate indulgence Christmas cake.
— 2 Macquarie St, Parramatta; clubparramatta.com.au
Originally published as Sydney Eat Street: Best sweet and savoury foods to enjoy this winter