72 hours in Kalgoorlie: The ultimate 3-day itinerary

With its rollicking gold rush history and equally rich line-up of outback characters, Kalgoorlie is the heart of WA’s Wild West.

At one time, Kalgoorlie, 600km east of Perth, was considered the richest square mile on Earth. In 1893, the idea of finding a massive gold nugget lured thousands of prospectors, creating a Wild West boom town of 200,000. In its heyday, “Kal” was Australia’s second biggest city after Sydney. Today, the town of 30,000 residents still relies on mining, but spend three days here, and you’ll find a quirky, individual vibe.

DAY ONE: Morning

Get your motor running and head out on the highway, climbing into the back seat of a Harley-Davidson trike. Greg Ocinski from Thunderstruck Trike Tours rides up front, and as we rumble through the streets, kids on their way to school stare enviously. Greg’s tours include historic Boulder, technically a separate town (especially to the locals), but effectively linked. My tour includes stops at the fascinating street art trail called Heartwalk, with many murals by Indigenous artists. Be sure to visit Chunky Timbers, a workshop where gentle giant Kim “Chunky” Gent recycles hardwood into gorgeous furniture and kitchenware. I finish my tour at the sculpture of Paddy Hannan. He was the first to stumble across gold here and sits outside the Visitor Centre. Pick up headphones here for a self-guided audio walking tour of 50 historic sites around the streets of Kal and Boulder.

Heartwalk Art Kalgoorlie. Picture: Tourism Western Australia

Afternoon

Since gold is why we’re here, visit the excellent Museum of the Goldfields. Peruse displays of gold rush life, learn about the Indigenous desert peoples, and the crucial role of Afghan cameleers in delivering water. Check out the gold vault, home to more than $4 million worth of nuggets. 

Evening

Just before sunset, I’m visiting Mount Charlotte Reservoir Lookout. Aside from the golden sunset views, I’ve come to see the terminus of the Golden Pipeline, which stretches 563km from Mundaring Weir, near Perth, to Kalgoorlie. The tap was switched on in 1903, and this remains the region’s freshwater supply.

In those roaring years, Kal’s many grand pubs were frequented by thirsty, cashed-up miners. Stepping into the Palace Hotel, circa 1897, I pause to admire a fancy mirror, said to be a gift from a mining engineer called Herbert Hoover to his barmaid girlfriend. Hoover, of course, would later serve as the 31st president of the US. Taking a seat at the Balcony Restaurant, I dine on elevated pub grub the early miners could not have fathomed. 

The Super Pit, Kalgoorlie-Boulder. Picture: Tourism WA

DAY TWO: Morning

Kalgoorlie’s most famous attraction is Northern Star Resources’ KCGM Operations, commonly known as the Super Pit. It’s a project originally commenced by infamous businessman Alan Bond, and was Australia’s largest gold mine for decades. While high-vis tours of the Super Pit are usually available, at the time of writing, they were temporarily suspended due to project expansions. Instead, drive up to the Super Pit lookout to take in the massive hole. Check the website to see if you can view the rock blasting on the day of your visit.

Afternoon

Over in Boulder, I stroll historic Burt Street, ducking into the Goldfields Aboriginal Language Centre to chat with staff about the preservation of endangered languages. The shop sells locally made souvenirs, local language kids’ books, and native herbs and seeds. In the Boulder Town Hall, I’m impressed with the wrought-iron dress circle balustrade and pressed tin ceilings, and the slick Goldfields War Museum.

With the influx of prospectors, service industries developed here, including prostitution. At one time, 18 brothels operated in Hay Street, but today only one remains. Although Questa Casa has operated for at least 100 years, in the past year or so, its services have been only brothel tours. Madam Carmel is the owner, and shares hilarious insights of life inside these pink-hued walls. 

Kalgoorlie's Questa Casa Brothel. Picture: Carolyn Beasley

Evening

Next, it’s over to the York Hotel, possibly the grandest of all Kalgoorlie’s Federation pubs, with Anglo-Dutch architecture, and an ornate domed roofline. Climb the splendid timber staircase, head out to the veranda, and sip your beverage overlooking Hannan Street.

DAY THREE: Morning

Enjoy the early birdsong on a morning walk in the Karlkurla Bushland Park, a 200ha rehabilitation project with 7km of trails. The park is part of the Great Western Woodlands, a biodiverse ecosystem of 16 million hectares.

Digging deeper into gold mining, head over to Hannans North Tourist Mine, a working mine until 1991. Today it’s an outdoor museum where visitors wander through early and modern mining exhibits. Don’t miss climbing inside the cab of a monster Caterpillar 793C haul truck, or try on a 17m-long loader for size. 

Broad Arrow Tavern near Kalgoorlie. Picture: Tourism WA

Afternoon

While Kalgoorlie has survived the boom and bust, not all towns endured. Broad Arrow, a 25-minute drive away, is deserted, except for the tavern. And what a quintessential outback pub this is, with dusty utes and Harley-Davidsons parked out front and an interior decorated in solid graffiti that looks like wallpaper. Notice the mighty beards of the bartenders as you order a Broady burger and a coldie.

If you’re in town on a Sunday, turn down the dusty track to the Two-Up Shed, for a legal bush two-up game where the coins are flipped not only on Anzac Day, but every Sunday afternoon. On my visit, I step inside the ring and I’m surprised to find mostly locals, with just a smattering of tourists. Shouts and laughs ring out, but don’t be fooled, this is real gambling and fistfuls of fifties change hands at every toss. 

Evening

Right before sunset, I’m climbing into the front of a Circle H Helicopter. We lift off and bank over the 600m-deep Super Pit, and it’s astonishing to see how Boulder almost teeters on the edge.

Tip: Book the extended flight for a low, adrenaline-pumping ride over the super-salty White Flag Lake. Pink and white sunset clouds reflect on the surface and it’s difficult to see where the shallow lake ends and the golden desert begins. 

The writer was a guest of Australia’s Golden Outback and Tourism Western Australia.

Circle H Helicopters over Kalgoorlie. Picture: Tourism Western Australia

How to get to Kalgoorlie

Qantas and Virgin fly from Perth to Kalgoorlie in one hour, five minutes. Driving takes six-and-a-half hours. Alternatively, take the Prospector Train from Perth in seven hours.

How to get around Kalgoorlie

Hire a car from the airport, but be sure to book ahead. Alternatively, join tours from the centre of town, like the Super Pit tour, a City Tram Taster Tour, or a Thunderstruck Trike Tour.

Originally published as 72 hours in Kalgoorlie: The ultimate 3-day itinerary