48 hours in Nairobi: What to do in the safari capital of the world

Before heading out on safari, you'll want to make time to explore Kenya’s dynamic capital. Check out the highlights with this action-packed two-day itinerary.

The Kenyan capital of Nairobi is often referred to as the “Safari capital of the world”. It’s with good reason. Where else in the world can you take a safari in a national park on the outskirts of a bustling, dynamic city and see elephants, giraffes, zebras, lions and rhinos?

If you want to visit nearby national parks for full- or half-day safaris, there’s Ol Donyo Sabuk National Park with views of Mount Kenya on clear days (65km from Nairobi); Hell’s Gate National Park, unique because visitors can walk or cycle alongside wildlife (90km); Mount Longonot National Park, with its stunning panoramic views of the Great Rift Valley (75km); and Aberdare National Park, home to elephants, leopards, and the rare bongo antelope (50km).

A bit further afield (225km) is the magnificent Masai Mara National Reserve.

Proximity to one of the world’s great animal experiences is clearly one of Nairobi’s most appealing assets but the city also has plenty to offer visitors before they pack the binoculars and slip on the safari suit.

DAY 1: Morning

The first thing you’ll want to do in Kenya is get up close and personal with the incredible array of wildlife, and the Giraffe Centre gives you ample opportunity. Founded in 1979, the centre was established when there were only 130 endangered Rothschild giraffes left in Kenya. Its breeding program has been hugely successful, and by paying the entry fee and hand feeding the 10 giraffes currently there, you are actively contributing to the ongoing preservation of these graceful (unless they accidentally headbutt you) animals. There are now more than 300 Rothschild giraffes safe and breeding well in various Kenyan national parks. 

Visitors can feed the resident giraffes at the Giraffe Centre in Nairobi.

Lunch

The most famous book set in Nairobi is Out of Africa. Written by Karen Blixen – pseudonym Isak Dinesen – it is her account of living on a coffee plantation on the then-outskirts of Nairobi. The 1985 film adaptation with Meryl Streep and Robert Redford won Best Picture at the Oscars the following year. It is only a short drive from the Giraffe Centre to the Karen Blixen Museum. Before you explore the beautiful homestead where the Danish author lived until 1931, grab a Kenyan coffee and chicken and avocado panini from the food truck cafè in the lush garden setting.

The grounds of the museum at the foot of the Ngong Hills are a peaceful retreat from the constant noise and movement of Nairobi. Many of the original furnishings and items belonging to Blixen are preserved in the museum, offering an authentic glimpse into the writer’s life and times. The house itself is a beautiful example of colonial architecture.

The home of Karen Blixen, the author of Out of Africa.

Evening

Check out the view at the appropriately named The View. Twenty-four floors above ground level at the Mövenpick Hotel, this revolving restaurant serves Mediterranean options, but it is all about the shimmering lights of Kenya’s capital below. With a population of over four million people Nairobi is one of the fastest-growing cities in Africa. 

The View revolving restaurant sits on the 24th floor, above the Mövenpick Hotel.

DAY 2: Morning

Actor Lupita Nyong’o grew up in Nairobi and says there’s always something going on in her home city. When we hit the busy streets of the city with our guide, Faith from Urban Adventures, we see she’s not wrong. Like many large cities around the world, Nairobi has areas that are generally safe for walking and others where caution is advised. The CBD is considered a safe area during the day but having a guide means you can cover more ground in a shorter period of time and get local insights into the city and its people.

We visit the Kenya National Archives and the August 7th Memorial Park that commemorates the 213 lives that were lost when the US Embassy was bombed by terrorists in 1998. The park is a peaceful oasis with free wi-fi and a small museum that tells the story of the tragic day, but also focuses on the importance of peace in our times. 

The Kenya National Archives building in Nairobi dates from 1931.

Lunch

Faith takes us to Kilimanjaro Jamia restaurant, near the Jamia Mosque. The restaurant specialises in East African cuisine and nyama choma – Swahili for roasted meat – is on the menu. Often served with ugali (a type of cornmeal porridge), sukuma wiki (collard greens), and kachumbari (a tomato and onion salad) nyama choma is the national dish of Kenya. The meat is slow-roasted to achieve a crispy exterior while keeping the inside tender and juicy. We tried the roasted goat and also the chicken. Delicious.

Our next stop, the Nairobi National Museum is a treasure trove of Kenyan history and culture. The collection in the Hominid Gallery is a reminder that East Africa is the cradle of humanity – our very own origin story – and many crucial hominin fossils found in East Africa are on display. These include the skeletal remains of Homo habilis and Homo erectus, together with some of the earliest stone tools. The museum is set in the Nairobi Botanical Garden and there is a snake park if local reptiles pique your interest. 

The Nairobi National Museum on Museum Hill.

Evening

The next morning we will depart early on a safari to the Masai Mara and Serengeti, so choose to eat at our hotel. Hotel Boulevard may not feature prominently on booking sites, and there are plenty of luxury five-star options across Nairobi, but its Modernist style with strong influences from mid-20th-century design make it a delight, and the dinner buffet offers plenty of variety with a strong Indian influence. 

Hotel Boulevard is centrally located in Nairobi.

How to get to Nairobi, Kenya from Australia

Flying from Australian capitals to Nairobi involves booking a connecting flight, as there are no direct flights. We flew from Sydney with Etihad Airways (via Abu Dhabi) in partnership with Qantas.

Where to stay in Nairobi

While Nairobi has plenty of Western-style hotels such as Radisson, Marriott and Fairmont, we stayed at the Hotel Boulevard for its central location and verdant gardens. 

How to get around Nairobi

Nairobi has its challenges concerning crime and safety, especially at night when it’s recommended you don’t travel to certain areas. Always use the recommended taxi services or book a guided tour.

Originally published as 48 hours in Nairobi: What to do in the safari capital of the world