On a tour of Albania, I discovered every day is indeed a school day - particularly when it came to parting with my money.
With its dazzling Riviera, ancient cities and spectacular mountain scenery, it’s hardly surprising that this Balkan destination is quickly becoming the new darling of European tourism.
Thinking about heading there yourself? The following lessons will help you make the most of your trip. Picture: Dilvin Yasa
See also: Albania: Surprising country that's 'real' Europe, without the prices
The official currency may be Albanian Lek but the Euro is accepted everywhere - so much so that you’ll often receive your change in a mix of both (terribly confusing for those of us with minimal mathematical skills). As the Lek is a closed currency, you’re better off either taking Euros, or pulling out just enough Lek to tide you through your stay.
Okay, possibly not, but if you’re thinking about packing a 25kg suitcase, only do so if you’re willing (and able) to lug it up endless flights of stairs, be it from coaches to hotels, as well as the hotel itself. Lifts are a luxury, so you’re better off packing light. Picture: Dilvin Yasa
Believe the rumours: despite increasing tourism, Albania is still as cheap as they say. Expect to part with $30 for a meaty meal for two, including a couple of rounds of beer, around $1.50 for a coffee and $1 for byrek (filo pastry stuffed with feta and spinach).
Seen Taken and convinced yourself that Albania is a terrifying place filled with menacing criminals who want to sell your body at an auction house? That movie has a lot to answer to; not only did I feel incredibly safe the whole time, but friendly locals went out of their way to make me feel welcome. Like Tasmanians, they have all the time in the world to chat to you, too, without expecting anything in return (no hard sell). Picture: Dilvin Yasa
How do you feel about byrek, stuffed peppers, stuffed vine leaves, meatballs or spaghetti with minced meat? Unless you go for traditional dishes such as baked lamb head and intestines filled with liver and spices, you’ll be choosing between the same 10 dishes at every single restaurant, every single day. By day four you’ll be craving Mexican or Thai but the only place you’ll find these dishes are in your dreams (or in Tirana). When looking at a menu, always choose a Plan B and Plan C as restaurants will rarely have the first - or second - dish you have your heart set on, particularly towards the end of the tourist season.
Kabuni (sweet lamb meat cooked with rice, raisins and cinnamon) in Kruja and Oshaf (sheep’s milk, fig and cinnamon pudding) in Gjirokaster, you’ll find a dessert specific to each region you visit. The rice pudding (particularly in Tirana’s Era restaurant) is excellent and largely available everywhere, but you’d be crazy not to at least try the local specialty of each town (yes, even the lamb meat which sounds strange, but somehow works).
Albania is still very much a cash society and despite the ATMs spitting out 5000 Lek notes, no one will accept them. In most cases, you’ll be hard pressed to find anywhere who’ll accept a 2000 or - unless you spend 800 Lek, a 1000 Lek note either. It’s incredibly frustrating so the best thing to do is to take your large notes to a supermarket and buy cheap items so you can break it all down. Picture: Dilvin Yasa
The roads are lawless, but just like in Vietnam, drivers magically halt the minute you step out in front of them at any crossing. Forget waiting for a break in traffic; it will never happen.
Infrastructure has a long way to go; there are no metro stations, trains or trams to speak of and buses - if they do come - get stuck in gridlocked traffic. Fortunately, Albania’s cities are compact (yes, even Tirana) and easily walkable. Pack your most comfortable walking shoes - unless you want to pay for a cab or rideshare (again, think of the traffic), you’re going to be needing them.
Whether you’re up for stewed meat, meatballs or just about anything else that’s brown, let it be known that it will always be veal. Some meat eaters won’t care, but if you choose to avoid eating baby animals and don’t eat pork I’ve got some news for you: you’re about to go largely vegetarian.
While we wouldn’t recommend going in the middle of northern summer, be sure your Albanian adventure concludes by the end of September. Run into October and you’ll find resort towns largely shuttered, shut early, or have minimal staff and stock.
The writer was a guest of Explore.
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