Battle of the ballgowns: Melbourne and Sydney designers face off

Camouflage may be out this season, but prepare for war on the runway at the Melbourne Fashion Festival as local designers defend their reputations against a glitzy Sydney assault.

The festival’s official runway program, starting on Monday, features leading Sydney bridal designer Steven Khalil in the prestigious solo Grand Showcase slot. Meanwhile, Melbourne dressmakers Alin Le’ Kal, Cappellazzo Couture, Con Ilio, Van Der Kooij and Vivienna Lorikeet have been stitched together in the Glam Up show.

Melbourne couturier Sonia Cappellazzo’s grey tulle gown (modelled by Charley Wakelin) and a strapless Van Der Kooij dress (modelled by Ursula Wlazlo) at the Royal Exhibition Building.Credit: Simon Schluter

“It’s a Melbourne event, and it’s supposed to be supporting Melbourne fashion,” says Sonia Cappellazzo, who has dressed Brit Selwood and Bel Sloane for the Brownlow Medal red carpet and influencers Olivia Molly Rogers and Olympia Valance for the Melbourne Cup carnival.

“I was surprised by the decision for the solo show. Steven is outstanding at what he does, but I think this event should be about promoting Melbourne designers.

“There’s a handful of us that could have made something spectacular. I’ve got to be optimistic. It’s hopefully all a step in the right direction.”

Cappellazzo has been in business for 29 years, with 12 workers, creating custom wedding dresses, gowns and suits from her Hawthorn atelier. Her business recently battled the growth of rival bridal labels manufacturing dresses overseas. The 60 dresses Khalil will bring to the Grand Showcase runway are just another challenge.

“I am lucky that I have my team in-house because we are losing skills and there’s no longer a look that is recognisably Melbourne,” Cappellazzo says. “We were once at the forefront when it came to fit and styling in Melbourne.”

For designer Natasha Veenhuizen, founder of Van Der Kooij, Melbourne’s signature is strong enough to withstand outside influences.

“Melbourne has an outstanding blend of modernity and heritage, and that comes through in our fashion scene,” Veenhuizen says. “You can see our diverse culture and love of fine art with our finishes.”

For festival director Caroline Ralphsmith, balancing the ticketed program with roughly 60 per cent local and 40 per cent interstate designers is a challenge, but its sales point to a winning formula.

The group show featuring Cappellazzo Couture and Van Der Kooij is the second-strongest selling event behind the opening night and will likely sell out.

Sales for Khalil’s solo show are already stronger than last year’s uninspiring PE Nation Gala Showcase, which took place weeks before the activewear label had a makeover and five months before the departure of co-founder Pip Edwards.

“This year, we selected Steven because he is a designer who can push the visibility of the event and create significant excitement,” Ralphsmith says. “He was also able to come up with the number of dresses required – 60 is a lot of looks.

“There’s something about the glamour and craftsmanship of gowns that the people of Melbourne definitely respond to.” Even if the dresses are from Sydney.

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