Off to the races: Your ultimate spring racing fashion guide

Television advertisements caution “Chances are, you’re about to lose” before betting on a horse. So, consider this your warning before taking a punt on an outfit for the races because, chances are you could look ridiculous!

On top of stringent rules for members areas, which include the Birdcage and betting ring at Flemington Racecourse, there are informal traditions that, if ignored, identify you as an outsider faster than a Sydneysider trying to pronounce Prahran.

MRC ambassador Lana Wilkinson in Rebecca Vallance and model Amy Pejkovic in Zimmermann at Caulfield Racecourse ahead of the Caulfield Cup.Credit: Eddie JIm

Put a carnation in your buttonhole on Oaks Day or wear a pink dress on Derby Day and you can expect the same judgmental looks reserved for women barefoot and carrying their high heels by the second race.

Nearly 20 years of covering fashion at Flemington and judging countless competitions, fortified by chicken sandwiches and chilled champagne, has enabled me to nimbly navigate the manure minefield of racewear.

Here’s how to look like a seasoned racegoer, even if you still cheer for a horse because it has a cool name.

Caulfield Cup: The warm-up

Since department store David Jones packed up its trackside marquee in 2019, Caulfield Cup has struggled to find its fashion footing. The Melbourne Racing Club is working with stylist Lana Wilkinson, a veteran of the AFL Brownlow Medal red carpet, on bringing glamour back to the event.

“Build your outfit around your millinery, so that the outfit looks complete and isn’t just an afterthought,” Wilkinson advises. “Stay away from sequins or heavy metallics during the day, as this will tend to look less appropriate than a block colour.”

Think breathable fabrics and relaxed silhouettes to get past the members fashion police rather than clinging dresses aimed at nightclub bouncers.

While more relaxed on other race days, at the Caulfield Cup, the MRC requires men to wear jackets and ties, and still bans midriffs and short suits in members areas.

Members v General Admission

While not as strict as the rules for the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot in England, where spaghetti strap dresses are banned and men must wear morning suits and top hats, gatekeepers to the Flemington members areas are more accustomed to saying no than Melbourne taxi drivers when asked for a short trip.

“With Ascot it’s much more formal and more conservative,” says stylist Nicole Bonython-Hines. “In Australia it is a lot more relaxed with a far greater tolerance of skin and hair (hats are optional here) but you still have to pay attention to the codes.”

The rules recently evolved to accommodate short suits (to the knee) but prevent men from abandoning ties or women from baring belly buttons. At Caulfield racecourse and Royal Randwick, short suits are still banned in the members.

“We don’t want people to just be compliant and just tick the box,” says Neil Wilson, chairman of the Victoria Racing Club. “Most members love exceeding expectations.”

With general admission, there are no dress regulations, but Wilson encourages an aspirational approach.

“The races provide an opportunity to express yourself that you don’t get at the tennis or football,” Wilson says. “It’s great to see people take advantage of that in smart outfits and with incredible millinery.”

Derby Day: Black and white

Members ready for Derby Day: Models Jack Chettra in Henry Bucks and Lochie Barnett in Rebecca Vallance dress and Chris Mullane hat.Credit: Simon Schluter

The unofficial dress code for Derby Day at Flemington has been black and white, since The Australian Women’s Weekly held a competition for colourless creations at the races in 1960.

“It was sponsored by the Black & White brand of James Buchanan and Co whisky,” says journalist Emily Power, editor of the book Fashion & Flemington.

“This dress code is unique to Melbourne, and it’s not compulsory, the way that a morning suit once was for men,” Power says. “I think social media has reinforced it as a trend.”

Despite rumours spread from Sydney, Derby Day’s reputation as the best dressed day of the season has more to do with the monochrome edit than interstate blow-ins.

Women can lean into LBD simplicity with contemporary cuts that go beyond boxy blazers. For men, it’s important to avoid a black suit, white shirt and solid black tie, unless you want to be asked for refills.

Tips for men: You can get away with grey suits but leave your Valentino pink three-piece or navy pin-stripe dry-clean fresh for another race day.

Tips for women: If mixing monochromes, keep white details above the ankles. Pale trouser hems or long skirts will end up with more grass stains than a fifth division cricketer.

Buttonhole flower: Cornflower. A symbol of hope for the future.

Melbourne Cup Day: Colour

Designer Jordan Dalah with his dress for model Jessica Gomes to wear in the Mumm marquee at the Cup carnival.Credit: Janie Barrett

After all of that black and white on Derby Day, bold and bright has become the theme for Cup Day.

Australian Fashion Week star Jordan Dalah has channelled the look-at-me Cup Day spirit designing a dress for model Jessica Gomes to wear in the Mumm marquee. Having hosted swimsuit-clad lifesavers in 2016 and pole dancers in 2017, the Mumm marquee is one of the more fashion forward areas of the Birdcage

“Racewear creates a space for my style of fashion, where clothing has a sense of occasion to it,” Dalah says. “It’s that time when you can make a statement.”

“Racewear needs to be light, fun and not too stiff. It can be avant-garde but still be playful. It’s not too far-fetched. You can push it that bit further than what you would wear to a smart lunch.”

This is an opportunity for men to lean into ties with personality in punchy colours. Take inspiration from jockey’s silks for colour combinations or racing motifs such as horse shoes and horse bits.

Tips for men: “Buy the best quality suit you can afford, and it should be made from 100 per cent natural fibres; Merino wool, linen, cotton, or a blend of the three,” says MJ Bale founder Matt Jensen. “Wool and linen, breathe beautifully. This is important for all outdoor events with a dress code, as this spring will be hot. Suits purchased off-the-rack usually require a nip and tuck here and there to fit you perfectly, so alterations are important.”

Tips for women: “This year expect to see plenty of bows,” Dalah says. “International designers are doing them and I’ve always included them. I’ve tried to do it in a more unexpected way.”

Buttonhole flower: Yellow rose. A symbol of friendship. In the Victorian era they were symbols of jealousy.

Oaks Day: Pretty

Our tip for general admission on Oaks Day: Model Jack Chettra in a Christian Kimber suit and polo shirt and Lochie Barnett in an Aje dress and Morgan & Taylor hat. Credit: Simon Schluter

Pastels, lace and floral prints place strongly on Oaks Day, also known as Ladies Day, and since 2004 as Blokes Day.

While Cup Day is about being bold, the femme approach of labels such as Zimmermann, Aje and Alemais comes to the fore on Oaks Day. Ruffles, peplum, delicate trims and skirts that catch the Melbourne breeze are simple signals of feminine forethought.

Men can lean in to the softer spirit with floral ties and pastel suits in members or a more relaxed approach in general admission areas.

Tips for men: “If you can only afford one suit, the classic navy wool suit with a notch lapel is the elegant man’s version of the Swiss Army Knife,” Jensen says. “You can wear it to work, weddings and events – typically any semiformal or formal occasion, except black tie.”

Tips for women: Hats are not compulsory on any of the race days but milliner Melissa Jackson encourages experimentation. “It can be a great way to engage with fashion and can shift your mood,” Jackson says. “You carry yourself differently.”

Buttonhole flower: Pink rose. Symbol of gratitude and femininity.

Stakes Day: Chill

Are you still here? After three race days and outfit changes for some, the final event of the spring carnival is the most relaxed, with many of the Birdcage marquees having closed their doors, making way for a family focus.

Relaxed daywear, such as cotton dresses from Joslin and Maggie Marilyn, worn with simple accessories, signal the shift down in fashion gears.

Tips for men: If you’re in general admission, try a knitted polo-shirt beneath a jacket and bring a touch of The White Lotus to the inner west.

Tips for women: Embrace flat shoes. “If you wear heels make sure that you have worn them a few times around the house first,” says model Nikki Phillips. “And keep them on your feet.”

Buttonhole flower: Red roses. Symbols of love and passion. If you’ve made it to Stakes Day you must love racing and dry-cleaning bills.

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