Hedi Slimane, the designer famous for transforming Yves Saint Laurent to Saint Laurent, is taking over as creative director at French fashion house Celine.
Under Slimane's direction, which begins on February 1, the former Dior Homme designer will introduce menswear, couture and an expanded fragrance line to the label.
Hedi Slimane has been named the new creative director of Celine.Credit: Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho
Under former creative head Phoebe Philo, who will present her final ready-to-wear collection in Paris next month, Celine regenerated from an ailing brand into a 21st-century powerhouse.
While Celine's owner, LVMH, does not provide sales breakdowns for individual brands, HSBC Holdings Plc estimates the label had revenue of 695 million euros ($1.065 billion) in 2016.
A model wears a creation by Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent in 2013. Fans of Celine are wondering what his plans are for the label. Credit: JACQUES BRINON
Slimane set the agenda for the men's fashion industry when he brought back skinny suits and jeans more than a decade ago at Christian Dior Homme, which he left in 2007. He was named creative director of Kering SA-owned Yves Saint Laurent in 2012 before leaving that post in 2016.
"He is one of the most talented designers of our time," LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault said of Slimane in the statement. "His arrival at Celine reinforces the great ambitions that LVMH has for this maison."
However, some Celine fans expressed concern about how Slimane's strong design aesthetic would impact on Celine, which under Philo perfected wearable clothes for the modern, professional woman.
Famed fashion commentator Diet Prada said Slimane's appointment was eliciting "mixed feelings".
Under Phoebe Philo, Celine cemented its place as a label for modern, professional women.Credit: PA
"Despite being somewhat ravaged for his debut Spring 2013 collection for Saint Laurent, his work still managed to sell like hot cakes. After Phoebe Philo's epic revival and tenure, it's clear the legacy of Céline is one that must live on. Hedi will surely keep us buzzing, and probably spending as well," Diet Prada wrote.
Fans were divided over the announcement.
"I'm desperately hoping Hedi can have another Dior Homme moment and doesn't pull the nonsense he pulled at YSL," wrote one Instagram user.
"I'm a fan of Hedi's aesthetic except his obsession with ultra skinny size 0 models," wrote another.
Of course Slimane is re-entering the fashion industry at a time when new charters and rules about models are being written in response to the sexual harassment crisis, which has already led to accusations against one-time leading photographers Terry Richardson, Mario Testino and Bruce Weber.
All three men have denied some or all of the allegations against them and publishers including Conde Nast have cut ties with the men while the claims are investigated.
Slimane is expected to present his first collections in Paris this September, and standalone menswear boutiques could open as early as 2019.
With wires