What makes a restaurant a favourite?

“What’s your favourite restaurant?” is now everyone’s favourite question, ever since they stopped asking me how I retain my slim figure, oh, 20 years ago or so. I patiently explain that, as a restaurant critic, I have sworn a sacred oath never to reveal my favourites. Indeed, that I am not allowed to have favourites because that would mean bias and bias would not be professional. Then I tell them my favourites anyway, because of course I have them. I wouldn’t be human if I didn’t.

What makes a restaurant special to me might be different for you.Credit: Simon Letch

Anyone who eats out has restaurants they prefer over others. Besides, as a restaurant critic, I have also sworn an oath to spread the joy and share the great experiences I have. If I find a good place to eat, then I want to support it by telling others about it.

We all have favourite actors, musicians, shoes, books, footballers, gelato flavours and children, so of course we have deeply preferred cafes, restaurants and bars. It doesn’t mean you have to experience them daily, but it does mean they provide context when you go elsewhere. Is this new place as good? Louder? With better bread? Nah, let’s go back to Chez Favourite next time.

So what makes a restaurant a favourite? It’s like a box of chocolates; there has to be a mix. Some of mine are 30 years old and have shaped, formed and educated me. Others are fresh new faces that make me feel excited and curious. Some I frequent for a favourite dish, a favourite table or a favourite waiter. One is just around the corner from where I live, but I don’t go there often because I don’t want it to become routine.

If anything, I’m harder on my favourite restaurants because I know what they are capable of.

I’m also aware of the need to remain objective when judging, scoring, reviewing. If anything, I’m harder on my favourite restaurants (and musicians and footballers) because I know what they are capable of.

What makes a restaurant special to me might be different for you. Is it because the floor staff recognise you and greet you by name? Or because they automatically bring the hot chilli sauce for your pizza? Or because it’s cheap and you can schlep in there in your gym gear (or because it’s expensive and you can dress up)? Or maybe it’s just that you have a good time there, every time. Same.

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