This fashion designer shares the cult shoe she regrets not buying

Each week, we quiz a prominent person about their style and the inspiration behind it. Ahead, fashion designer Sophie Coote.

Sophie Coote mixes masculine and feminine touches in her everyday wardrobe.Credit: Kitty Callaghan

How would you describe your style? I go between masculine and femme, but I am always minimalist in my approach. I love dressing up and leaning into a glam look for an event, but day-to-day I’m mostly in a vintage men’s trouser with a statement top, tailoring and a heel.

What’s the oldest thing in your wardrobe? A 1990s Jean Paul Gaultier printed mesh set I bought from a vintage store in Paris. I love imagining the life a garment had before it came to me.

And the most recent addition? A pair of Dries Van Noten brown leather Mary Jane pumps.

What would you wear … on a first date? A sheer top with a baggy trouser, a heel and choker. … on a plane? I go for chic comfort; I always wear black and love a fashion tracksuit with my Adidas x Song for the Mute sneakers. … on the red carpet? I love Loewe or a beautiful vintage look; 1990s Calvin Klein, sleek and understated, is very aligned with my personal style.

What’s your favourite fashion era? It sounds clichéd, but I’d have to say the ’90s. There was a transition from overstated glam to a rawness, minimalist styling and functional design.

Who are your favourite fashion designers? Heritage designers: Jean Paul Gaultier and John Galliano. More recently, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Dries Van Noten and Phoebe Philo.

What’s your fragrance of choice? Comme des Garçons “Zero” – a refined, masculine scent.

What are the three essential items in your wardrobe? Sir jeans and our mesh tees. Also, my Jil Sander leather shirt-style jacket.

Coote recently bought these shoes, by Dries Van Noten.

Any go-to jewellery? I wear my grandmother’s wedding ring, which was handed down through five generations with a stack of other gold rings, some with stones, some without. I also like to add beads and hardware to the Sir leather cording chokers. And I love what New York City-based brand Agmes is doing.

Can you remember a favourite outfit you wore as child? It was a black velvet matching pant set with a frilly collar and beret that my grandmother made for me. Both my grandmothers were tailors; it’s why I became fascinated with fashion.

What was your first fashion moment? It was at a young age when my cousin and I would play dress-ups in my grandmother’s and aunty’s beautiful designer clothes, old bridesmaids dresses and fun stuff from the 1970s and ’80s.

Can you think of your worst fashion mistake? No, in retrospect you might go, “How did I wear that?”, but at the time you’re dressing to suit how you feel.

What’s on your wishlist? I missed out on the Phoebe Philo black thong heeled wedge. It’s a pipe dream; she’ll never re-stock them.

Is there something you’d never wear? Head-to-toe designer clothes, shoes and accessories. I love designer clothes but pared back with something vintage or less obvious.

Is there a current trend you like? I love the sheer trend: the accentuation of the female form, layering and the play on opacity.

What do you sleep in? Vintage tees.

What shoes do you wear most often? Adidas sneakers, The Row nude mesh sock shoe, and vintage Prada brogues.

Who’s your favourite fashion icon? I grew up aspiring to be like early 2000s models Erin Wasson, Devon Aoki and Kate Moss. Also, photographer Diana Bartlett does both understated and glam really well, while actor Margaret Qualley has that all-time chic, well-put-together look.

What do you wear on a typical working day? It’s varies from a baggy tee with jeans and a heel, to a suit or dress with a sneaker.

What’s your favourite off-duty, casual Sunday look? I’ll be in an oversized Monphell hoodie, ripped jeans and big sunglasses.

Sophie Coote is co-founder and creative director of Sir.

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