The new Karl Lagerfeld has arrived at Chanel. Here’s what to expect

After an exhaustive six-month search that saw the names of Hedi Slimane from Celine, Jacquemus founder Simon Porte Jacquemus and former Louis Vuitton creative director Marc Jacobs tossed around the front row like empty goody bags, the house of Chanel has settled on 40-year-old Matthieu Blazy to run its fashion business.

“I am thrilled and honoured to join the wonderful house of Chanel,” Blazy said in a statement. “I look forward to meeting all the teams and writing this new chapter together.”

Blazy arrives at Chanel with the respect of the industry, having made the Italian label Bottega Veneta a flattering bright spot in the fashion conglomerate Kering’s portfolio, with sales rising by 4 per cent in the first nine months of 2024 to €1.23 billion ($2 billion).

Mathhieu Blazy takes a bow in Milan following his ready-to-wear collection for Bottega Veneta in February.Credit: AP

With his trompe l’oeil collections of elevated basics, such as T-shirts and jeans rendered in leather and hit Kalimero, Andiamo and Sardine-style handbags, Blazy has also gained a celebrity following that includes Kate Moss, Jacob Elordi, Greta Lee and Julianne Moore.

Becoming only the fourth creative director of the house founded by Coco Chanel in 1910 is a major step up for the French-Belgian who has worked at Calvin Klein, Celine and Raf Simons.

Chanel is more than 10 times the size of Bottega Veneta, with revenue in 2023 of $US19.7 billion ($30 billion). Blazy will oversee 10 collections a year spanning haute couture, ready-to-wear and resort shows.

“I am convinced that he will be able to play with the codes and heritage of the house through an ongoing dialogue with the studio, our ateliers, and our maisons d’art,” said Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel Fashion, in a statement.

“His audacious personality, his innovative and powerful approach to creation, as well as his dedication to craftsmanship and beautiful materials, will take Chanel in exciting new directions.”

It’s the audacity that Chanel bosses are focusing on, with Blazy’s predecessor, Virginie Viard, attracting negative press during her five-year tenure as creative director, which followed the death of Karl Lagerfeld in 2019 at the age of 85.

Viard’s collections helped Chanel achieve record profits, but low-key runway shows, compared to Lagerfeld’s extravagant sets, and social media roasting of house ambassadors Margot Robbie and Margaret Qualley on the red carpet led to her exit.

Blazy will join the brand next year, Chanel said in a statement on Thursday, without specifying when. He is expected to present his first Chanel collection in October.

A model on the Chanel runway for the spring 2025 collection in Paris, in October.Credit: Getty Images

Even with one of the top seats in fashion now taken, the game of musical chairs is not over.

Controversial designer John Galliano this week announced his departure from Maison Margiela, prompting rumours of a return to Christian Dior, and Fendi is still looking to replace Kim Jones, who resigned as creative director in October.

For the time being Blazy can sit comfortably, with Chanel having said the appointment is a long-term commitment. And Chanel knows how to commit, with Lagerfeld occupying the top job for 36 years.

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