Last summer, I bought what, I thought, was the perfect bikini for an island holiday. It was cream, with a bottom that wasn’t too high cut and covered my tummy, and a top that wouldn’t accidentally fly off if I caught a wave.
My biggest sin? Not trying it on first. The bottoms, once wet, sagged like a full nappy. Immediately, the bikini went back into my suitcase, and I was left with just one swimsuit for the rest of the trip.
The broader lesson here is that buying swimwear takes planning, patience and, often, nerves of steel. And that’s once you have decided on what you are looking for.
So which shapes and colours are in for summer 2024? If you believe TikTok, then the ’90s tankini, which consists of a singlet and bikini bottom, is having a comeback. This news will make you either celebrate or cringe, even if the style once had Karl Lagerfeld’s seal of approval (Lagerfeld featured tankinis in Chanel’s 2012 resort collection).
Still have questions? We asked three experts for their advice on swimwear shopping in 2024.
The ‘it girl’ designer: Christopher Esber
Christopher Esber is known for his sculptural dresses that often feature daring cutouts. The Sydney designer, who this year won the $480,000 ANDAM Prize for Fashion, has expanded his repertoire to swimwear, with results that don’t follow micro-trends. “For our swim collection, we draw on our signature brand codes – sculptural hardware, natural stone detail and negative space – offering this convergence of ready-to-wear foundations with high-performance swim fabrics.”
How to do “beach to bar”: Esber’s advice is to lean into hardware or features such as his colour-changing moonstones to take pieces beyond “just” swimwear. He also recommends building on your swimwear collection with complementary pieces, such as ruched skirts. When choosing pieces, opt for the same or similar fabric of finish to create a more seamless look, which will in turn make you feel more confident about your choice to wear your bikini to dinner. Best for longer-line styles, including one-pieces, long-sleeve tops and the aforementioned tankini.
Other brands to try: Matteau, Bondi Born, Bond-Eye.
The debutant: Lara Fells, St. Agni
A favourite with lovers of minimalist style, St. Agni has just launched its first swimwear collection to complement the Byron Bay-based brand’s monochrome aesthetic. Co-founder Lara Fells says that because she was based on the coast, swimwear felt like a natural progression. “I love the idea of offering our customers a complete head-to-toe in-store experience,” she says. “We wanted to create versatile styles that can be mixed and matched or paired effortlessly with your wardrobe.”
Embrace “anti” prints: There are no set rules when it comes to prints, but Fells suggests an “anti-print” such as St. Agni’s “Atlas” print, which takes its name and design from a skirt given to Fells by her grandmother, Agni, after whom the label is named. “Prints are a new venture for St. Agni, and it felt meaningful to create one that resonates so authentically with the brand’s core,” she says. If loud florals are your thing, then go ahead (that goes for men, too), but if you are worried about a print dating or growing tired, try a graphic, or a reverse floral in a two-tone colourway. And if you want to jump on next season’s fashion trends, consider a zebra stripe.
Other brands to try: SIR., Zimmermann, Peony.
The purist: Claire Metcalf, C.Design
Founded by Western Australia-based former model Claire Metcalf in 1993, C.Design was once the label of choice for some of the most famous women in fashion, including Gisele Bündchen, Elle Macpherson and Megan Gale. Fast-forward 30 years and three children, and Metcalf and her husband, Gavin Eddy, relaunched the brand with the same ’90s spirit (and yes, they make a tankini). For Metcalf, it was important to embrace the diversity of women’s bodies. “The collection is designed as mix-and-match so it’s easy to build multiple sets from a few pieces with the choice of both classic silhouettes and briefer options.”
The argument for investment swimwear: Metcalf says there is no reason why well-made swimwear can’t be an heirloom piece as much as a coat or handbag. “I have handed down C.Design garments that were made 30 years ago to my daughters and friends, and the garments have retained both their quality in construction and in aesthetic.”
To care for your swimwear, start with purchasing good quality materials. Check seams for extra overlocking to allow for “active” wearing (such as swimming, surfing or running), and always rinse after any contact with salt or chlorine. Metcalf also recommends looking for pieces that are double-lined, which adds to the strength and longevity of the suit.
Other brands to try: Marysia Swim, Form and Fold, Fella Swim.
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