By Jennifer Barger
Affordable fast fashion and social media make it seem as though clothing trends move more quickly than a runway model’s strut. But that churn is incompatible with building a wardrobe that has staying power. “As a society, we’ve been conditioned to think we’ll wear something for a little while and then donate it or sell it,” says Rosana Vollmerhausen, a stylist and project manager from Silver Spring, Maryland.
So how can you assemble a wardrobe that lasts longer than a few seasons and contains fewer “whoops” purchases? Here’s what the style pros say.
Look beyond fashion trends to styles and colours that suit you for a wardrobe with longevity.Credit: Getty Images
Evaluate what you already have
“People often buy all this stuff, and then stick to three or four pieces that they put on all the time,” says Cory Ohlendorf, editor-in-chief of the men’s style website Valetmag.com. That’s why you must assess what you already own before you purchase anything new.
Stylists usually begin working with clients by taking everything out of their wardrobes and going through each item. “Then we can both see what you’re actually wearing and what’s just taking up space,” says Washington, DC, personal stylist Lani Inlander. “I had one male client, a partner at a law firm, who I helped get rid of 75 worn or outgrown white dress shirts! Getting dressed is a very different experience for him now.”
You can edit your existing wardrobe yourself, perhaps enlisting a stylish friend for opinions. Think about which colours, shapes or styles you wear the most. “Be your own influencer,” Vollmerhausen says. “What I mean by that is – make your own outfits, take your own selfies, and then you can remember and analyse about which outfits feel the best.” This also helps determine what gaps there are in your wardrobe.
Begin with the basics
And that means whatever is “basic” to you. Because she works from home but meets frequently with clients, Vollmerhausen considers dark jeans and black, menswear-inspired blazers her basics. But she helps male clients who need several suits and multiple dress shirts and female clients who mostly wear dresses.
“You want to build a stable of a few dozen foundational pieces that you love, which are also functional and versatile,” says Irene Kim, a wardrobe stylist from Toronto, Canada, and author of the fashion Substack In Moda Veritas.
Kim counts a pair Tibi of sweatpants with tight cuffs and barrel legs as one of her surprising MVPs. “I love the interesting shape through the leg, the perfect amount of slouch, and they make sense for my lifestyle,” she says. Kim slips into them for both casual and dressier occasions, “to the point that I don’t need the other two sweatpants I own.”
Buy fewer, better things
“If you want things that will last in your wardrobe, think about their cost per wear,” Inlander says. “You may want to spend more on the pieces you’ll use the most.” That means seeking well-made clothing and quality leather shoes, which can last for years if you have them resoled and polished. “Don’t buy something that’s cheaper instead of what you really want,” Ohlendorf says. “It never satisfies, and you’ll end up replacing it.”
For longevity, keep super-trendy purchases to a minimum. “You don’t want a bunch of things that scream, ‘Oh, that was last summer’,” says Meghan Kinney, the Brooklyn designer behind sustainable women’s clothing brand Meg. “I try to create clothes with clean lines and design elements, so they’re kind of subtle and last longer.”
Dress outside trends
If you figure out colours and silhouettes that work with your body and colouring, you don’t need to constantly change things up. Think of fashion icons such as Coco Chanel or Iris Apfel. Both dressed in “uniforms” of sorts – Chanel in tweedy jackets and loads of black and white, Apfel in a rainbow of prints and bright bangles.
Iris Apfel at her 100th birthday party in 2021. She was known for her love of bright colours and big bangles.Credit: Getty
Ask for professional help
A session or two with a professional stylist might help you zero in on your needs and style. You can either hire an independent stylist or reserve time with an in-house pro shopper at a department store, boutique or retailer. Appointments with store stylists are generally free, and while the ultimate goal is pushing you to make purchases, it’s usually not a hard sell.
“Brands and stores that have skilled and knowledgeable sales associates can help steer you in the right direction,” Ohlendorf says.
Take care of what you have
If you spend more money on a higher-quality wardrobe, it makes financial sense to care for it. Find a good cobbler who can repair your shoes, a tailor who can do small fixes and mending, and a dry cleaner you trust. “Get your clothes in the best shape possible,” Kinney says. “Keep them clean and pressed, and replace those lost buttons.”
For garments that can be laundered, don’t overdo it, Kim says. “Wash things on cold and air dry them to preserve the fabric and extend the garment’s life.”
Don’t completely stop shopping
While having fewer, finer items might be the best strategy for a wardrobe with staying power, “it’s human nature to want things that are new and different”, Kim says. As dress silhouettes and tie widths change, you can purchase one or two new items a year or season.
“When there’s a shift, say, from slim to wide pants, people say, ‘I’m going a throw out all my skinny jeans and get a whole new wardrobe’,” Vollmerhausen says. “Instead, start slow, like one pair of wide jeans you wear over and over again. Something can be current, but it doesn’t mean it’s you and what you feel comfortable in.”
Kinney keeps a small “treasure chest” of pieces that can’t be parted with. “I have a few things tucked away, like an old leather bomber jacket I’ve had for decades,” she says. “They might not feel right this year, but if you revisit them down the road, you may wear them again.”
The Washington Post
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