Billion-dollar brand Zimmermann joins the Brat Pack for its new look

The “greed is good” excess of the eighties should appeal to designer Nicky Zimmermann. Last year’s billion dollar takeover deal for Zimmermann, the Australian label she propelled to international success alongside sister Simone, would make shoulder pads worthy of Linda Evans in Dynasty and Wall Street pinstripes a perfect fit.

Instead, memories of empty pocket student days in the eighties and the eras’ Brat Pack movie classics, such as Pretty in Pink, St Elmo’s Fire and 16 Candles proved much stronger inspirations for Zimmermann’s resort 2025 collection Crush, launched today.

Eighties Brat Pack movies were the inspiration for Zimmermann’s 2025 resort collection called ‘Crush’.

“It takes me back to my time at design school when we were inspired by these iconic actresses in those movies,” Nicky says. “I can’t tell you if they were good actresses, but I loved their individual style.”

“Women like Winona Ryder, Lisa Bonet and Molly Ringwald were my favourites and each had their own individual approach to eighties dressing. At school, we would rummage through vintage stores, cut things up and try to make things to wear for the next week, to be like our icons.”

Pink ruffled dresses with tromp l’oeil lace prints, stiff shouldered denim jackets with biker buckles and sleeves pushed to Miami Vice heights and watercolour floral print prom dresses with corsages circling the waist capture the optimism of the enduring teen movies.

“Even the models for this collection who were in their twenties knew everything about the films,” Nicky says. “They were right onto it and could pick the references.”

Varsity jackets, prints inspired by lovelorn diary scrawling and animal print tributes to Jon Cryer’s unlucky in love Duckie from Pretty In Pink provided further clues.

“It’s always a nod to an era rather than re-doing a decade. These stories were light-hearted coming of age films with an optimistic feeling and sense of fun. That’s what I wanted to capture.”

Fun is still a priority for Zimmermann, even with the pressure of new owners Advent International, a US investment firm that acquired the business in August following a $1.75 billion valuation.

Last year revenue for the brand reached a record $506 million, Nicky now oversees design studios in Sydney and Paris, and upcoming boutique openings in Monaco, New York’s Soho district and St Barts will stretch the business to 71 stores.

“There’s no doubt that there’s momentum,” Nicky says of the new ownership. “But I focus on my end of things. Chris our chief executive [Nicky’s husband Chris Oliver] and my sister Simone are great at what they do.”

“I am very lucky to be busy. This is my fun. I’d prefer to be doing this than going out for lunch.”

The design studio remains Nicky’s refuge and although the 1985 movie Girls Just Want to Have Fun with Sarah Jessica Parker and Helen Hunt failed to make her mood board, it could be her motto.

“If Simone can hear laughter coming from the studio she knows that it will be a good collection. We try to have fun.”

Nicky Zimmermann taking a bow at Paris Fashion Week in March.Credit: Getty

Despite a playful approach, Nicky is suitably serious when asked about the controversial prom dress worn by Molly Ringwald’s character Andie Walsh at the end of Pretty In Pink. The dress, which made Ringwald cry tears far from joy when she first saw it, continues to divide viewer opinions.

“It was a strong shade of pink,” she concedes. “It might have even been too pink for me.”

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