People, we have a chip problem. The hand-cut, double-cooked fries at Bobbie Peels – golden chunks of fluffy, creamy Nicola spud – are just one example of food punching above its weight here. Other surprises include a vegan, gluten-free Sunday roast that actually tastes delicious, a tomato tart that has sunshine-sweet heirloom fruit lolling on buttery pastry, and zucchini mafaldine pasta with a lacy parmesan crisp perched atop like a bonnet.It’s pub grub meets bistro creativity, underpinned by restaurant technique.

The superlative selection of indie beer is to be expected, but the approach to wine is even more special. Local winemakers offer tastings and insights on Wednesdays, and the list is dotted with hard-to-find bottles. Pubs are for the people, and it’s obvious owners Phil Gijsbers and Neil Mills see themselves as custodians of a tradition they revere – but also feel confident to refresh.

Must order: Honestly? A bowl of chips.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.