Historically, South Australia's Clare Valley produces excellent riesling. The classical style looks very pale and green-tinged in youth. It's dry and somewhat austere, but its fruit concentration, depth, minerally savour, and the ability to be enriched by bottle age make it extra special. Compared with many classic Australian wine styles, Clare Valley riesling of real regional and varietal authority can be reasonably priced. Drink them young for their fragrance and zest, or keep them for years to develop impressive complexity.

Steve Wiblin's Erin Eyes Emerald Isle Watervale Riesling 2020, $23-$25

Score 93

Aromatic with sweet spice, green lime and yeasty aromas, Steve Wiblin's lyrically-named Emerald Isle has pristine, youthful regional character. Its juicy flavours are reminiscent of lime and spice, and it's fine in texture, persistent in flavour, bright and appetising. Delicious now, worth cellaring. Screw cap; 11.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over eight years plus.

Stockists include Hops & Vine, Warrandyte (Vic); United Cellars, Woolloomooloo (NSW).

Cooter & Cooter Watervale Riesling 2019, $20-$23

Score 93

Traditional in style, this riesling offers lime, stewed apple, cinnamon and steely aromas, leading through a refined palate of rich flavour, perfectly balanced by tight structure and a tangy backbone of acidity. It drinks well now, but will improve with medium-term bottle age. Screw cap; 12 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over six years.

Stockists include McCoppins, Fitzroy (Vic); Buzz Wines (NSW).

Jim Barry Lodge Hill Dry Riesling 2020, $22-$25

Score 92

A wine that opens up delicately with fairly neutral aromas hinting at florals, lime, yeast lees and minerals, but it evolves admirable richness and depth in the mouth, lifted by a piercing zip of acidity carrying through a very dry finish. Ideally needs a little bottle age to realise its potential. Screw cap; 12.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Yes, one to eight years.

Stockists include Red Bottle, Elizabeth Street, Sydney (NSW); Nicks Wine Merchants, Doncaster East (Vic).