We've been spruiking the virtues of unfashionable Australian riesling in these pages for longer than we can remember. Has our cheer squad had any influence? We hope so, and it is great to report that riesling has been climbing out of the doldrums in recent years. Great Australian rieslings of pedigree sell out quickly, and budget-priced examples continue to offer sensational value. Riesling is the great all-rounder. It's versatile and food-friendly, and while light and zesty in youth, it can build true majesty with bottle age. Every home should have some.

Tahbilk Riesling 2017, $18-$20

Score 90

The venerable Tahbilk vineyard in Central Victoria has a long history with riesling. The 2017 is quite delicate, with light floral, citrus sherbet and herbal aromas, and a steely note underneath. The palate is light, dry and crisp with a fresh, easy feel and relatively soft acidity for a young riesling. Screw cap; 12.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over four years.

Stockists include Elwood Wines & Spirits, Elwood (Vic); Petersham Liquor, Petersham (NSW).

Wilson DJW Polish Hill River Riesling 2017, $22-$24

Score 93

From the great Polish Hill River district of the Clare Valley, this classic regional riesling offers lemon-lime, apple, spice and mineral aromas. It's succulent in the mouth with tangy varietal flavour, a firm backbone and a bone-dry finish. Great value. Screw cap; 12 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over eight years.

Stockists include Winesquare, Camperdown (NSW); Nicks Vintage Direct, Doncaster East (Vic).

Mesh Classic Release Eden Valley Riesling 2012, $36-$38

Score 94

This special bottle-aged release of a classic Eden Valley riesling shows some of the fascinating complexity that evolves over time. Lime sherbet, apple tart and steely aromas have an overlay of lightly honeyed, buttered-toasty notes. It's richly flavoured, mouth-filling, sustained and fine in texture with a very long aftertaste. Screw cap; 12 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Should develop further over four years.

Stockists include Dan Murphy stores.