Most Australian wines are made from shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay or sauvignon blanc. These are the top varieties, and they are deservedly popular. But what of the newcomers? There are hundreds of other varieties grown – some of which, such as pinot gris/grigio and gruner veltliner, sangiovese and tempranillo, are rapidly becoming mainstream. Others are cultivated in just a handful of vineyards. Alabarino is one: native to northern Spain and Portugal, it has made little impact in Australia so far. Arneis is grown in Piedmont, Italy, but hasn't been a big traveller like some other Italian varieties. Others to try are fiano, vermentino, nebbiolo and montepulciano.

ArtWine The Real Thing Albarino 2018, Adelaide Hills $30

Score 90

This is a new wine for this maker and is still a baby, with pale colour and a very fresh, young aroma, which is floral and grapy with a subtle spicy note. It's light- to medium-bodied and quite intense, with a crisp, firm finish and enough strength to stand up to flavoursome food. Screw-cap; 12.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to six years.

Stockists include Bottega del Vino, Potts Point (NSW); Cloudwine, South Melbourne (Vic).

Bird In Hand Arneis 2017, Adelaide Hills $32

Score 91

The colour is palish yellow and the wine has an intense aroma of herbs and citrus fruits, estery and fragrant, with more fruit and charm than usual from this variety. It is seamlessly textured, with abundant flavour but also restraint and finesse. Juicy, seductive: a lovely drink. Vino-lok glass stopper; 12 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to five years.

Stockists include Victoria Park Cellars (NSW); Ivanhoe Wine Shop (Vic).

Tarrawarra Estate Barbera 2016, Yarra Valley $28

Score 95

The colour is deep-ish red-purple and it smells appealingly of Asian spices and potpourri, the palate soft and fruity with raspberry and spice varietal flavours, supported by super-fine tannins. The middle-palate has delicious fruit sweetness and the balance is excellent. Screw-cap; 14.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to 10 years.

Stockists include The Botanical, South Yarra (Vic); tarrawarra.com.au.