What's Australia's best white wine type? Despite vagaries of wine fashion, at the quality end of the marketplace chardonnay remains hugely popular, with good reason, but it has been a victim of fashion over the years. Fat, oaky wines have mostly given way to finer things, but at the other end of the spectrum lean, mean, charmless chardonnays have done nothing for the variety's reputation. The sweet spot in the middle is where the best wines are found. These can be spectacular and comparable to chardonnays from anywhere across the globe. The nation's best whites? You be the judge.

Rosily Vineyard Chardonnay 2017 $25-$27

Score 90

A zesty, appetising Margaret River chardonnay with inviting aromas of white peach, citrus and tart green apple, dressed lightly in a balanced touch of stylish oak. It's tangy in the mouth with good underlying structure and a superfine, sustained, dry finish. Screw cap; 13.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over three years.

Stockists include: Kemenys, Bondi (NSW); Rosily Vineyard direct at rosily.com.au

Curly Flat Lacuna Chardonnay 2017 $28-$30

Score 91

Well-made Macedon Ranges chardonnay at a fair price. Subtlety is the thing in its white stone fruit and almond/leesy aromas, very light toffee notes, and underplayed old oak seasoning. The palate is fresh and juicy, yet it's not too simple, and a morish aftertaste lingers nicely. Screw cap; 12.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over three years.

Stockists include: Just released. Ask at your local wine store or contact Curly Flat direct at curlyflat.com or on 03 5429 1956.

Tyrrell's Vat 47 Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2015 $70-$75

Score 95

Great chardonnay has wonderful harmony and the famous Tyrrell Vat 47 demonstrates it. The current 2015 is refined and complete. Grapefruit, peach jam, herby notes, smoky lees and nutty oak combine seamlessly on nose and palate. It's not heavy, but deliciously concentrated, long and memorably smooth. Screw cap; 12.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over six years.

Stockists include: Dan Murphy's stores; Vintage Cellars stores.