Experimentation with grapes outside the accepted norm is very much a part of the Australian vineyard scene these days. Some of these new varieties are working well, others less so, but nero d'Avola, a red grape native to the hot, dry vineyards of Sicily, seems right at home down under. In a warming environment where water management is so important, grapes like this ought to be part of the future, and the red wines nero d'Avola makes are ideally suited to the Mediterranean cuisine that's so popular in contemporary Australia.

Chalmers Heathcote Nero d'Avola 2016 $25-$27

Score 90

Chalmers Wines have been pioneering alternative grape varieties for years, and this nero d'Avola from Central Victoria shows their mastery. It smells interestingly of crushed berries, spice, licorice and earth. It's medium-bodied, with succulent balance and fragrant raspberryish flavours, ahead of a soft but tangy finish. Super gluggable. Screw cap; 13 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? No need.

Stockists include Clock Hotel, Surry Hills (NSW); Cloudwine, South Melbourne (Vic.)

Mount Horrocks Nero d'Avola 2016 $37-$40

Score 92

From Stephanie Toole's admirable Clare Valley winery, this young red has a nose of red berries, cherries, Italian deli aromas and dusty earth. It's medium in body with ample fruit character and the typically mouthwatering acidity of the variety giving vibrancy. It finishes bone dry with balanced underlying tannic grip. Screw cap; 14 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over three years.

Stockists include Prince Wine Store, South Melbourne (Vic); just released in New South Wales – try Five Way Cellars, Paddington.

Eldorado Road Riserva Nero d'Avola 2016 $55

Score 95

North-eastern Victoria looks a good home for nero d'Avola, and Eldorado Road is a regional flagship. This superb example has lovely floral scents overlaying notes of prune, Siena cake, cherry, peppery spice and leather. It has gorgeous fruit intensity and freshness, lovely balance and drinkability, and it should build personality with more time in the bottle. Screw cap; 13.9 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over five years.

Stockists include Check with Eldorado Road cellar door at eldoradoroad.com.au or call on 03 5725 1698.