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The magic of Marseille exists if you know where to find it

The magic of Marseille exists if you know where to find it

The French city’s gritty, colourful past is exemplified in the Panier district. Here’s a guide to where to stay and dine – away from the tourist traps.

Le Panier district in Marseille. Alamy

Robert Bevan

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Marseille has been celebrating 80 years since Operation Dragoon, the Allied liberation of Provence from the Nazis in the summer of 1944. A road junction in Marseille has been guarded ever since by the shell of a destroyed American tank called Jeanne d’Arc. It is now a memorial. You can follow trails from the landing sites along the coast at Toulon and Saint-Raphaël to visit monuments and cemeteries.

Some of the townscape scars inflicted on Marseille by the fighting were permanent – the astonishing transporter bridge that straddled high above the entrance to the picturesque Vieux-Port like a steel daddy-long-legs was the most obvious casualty. The Germans destroyed it and most of the historic dock buildings to prevent the Allies using them.

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Original URL: https://www.afr.com/life-and-luxury/travel/the-magic-of-marseille-exists-if-you-know-where-to-find-it-20241120-p5ks9v