Shane Osborn, the only Australian chef to hold two Michelin stars, took over Pied a Terre in London in 1999. But the culinary dynamo says the awards and accolades are not what cooking is about. He talked to Rachel Lebihan. You've set a high bar. How do you maintain that standard? For me the stress of running a kitchen is more dictated by the critique of my regular customers. The whole Michelin thing was never my raison d'etre. What is the hardest part about being an Australian chef in the UK?Australian chefs were never really taken seriously at this level. The consensus was that Aussie chefs could only cook fusion food. That attitude has changed. You've developed severe food allergies. How has that changed how you cook? I became allergic to all fish and shellfish in 2004, which felt like a huge threat to my career. But it taught me to delegate and trust my senior staff in a whole new way. Now when I develop a fish dish I include as many people in the tasting as possible. What is your favourite produce at the moment? We are at the end of summer and are getting some fantastic soft fruit, like peaches and nectarines. One bite and it reminds me of my childhood in Australia. I do miss the fruit of Australia. How has the global economic crisis affected business at Pied a Terre and the way that you operate? The whole hospitality industry has been hit very hard and as a business we have had to adapt. We have been very successful over the past four years and the company is sitting in a good position to ride out this credit storm. Who has been most influential in your career? There are so many people who have inspired and influenced me over the years. The wonderful thing about working in the restaurant business is that you get to meet the most passionate people - from farmers and growers to wine makers and artisan producers. What does the London restaurant scene do better than Australia? The London scene is very competitive, but in all honesty not a lot. The restaurant market in Australia is very exciting, with establishments such as Tetsuya's, Quay and Pier being recognised as world-class restaurants. What do you miss about Australian food? I miss quality Thai and Chinese food at affordable prices. But what I miss most is lunch al fresco on a sunny day without the fumes of a big London bus whizzing past. PUMPKIN AND GINGER SOUP Serves 6-8 900g chopped pumpkin 50ml white wine 1100ml white chicken stock 75ml double cream 100g butter 20g ginger 70g sugar 10g salt Method: Put the butter, pumpkin, ginger, salt and sugar into a heavy-based pan. Cover with a lid and sweat gently until soft. Remove the lid and reduce the water until dry. Add the wine and reduce by two-thirds. Add the chicken stock and cook for 30 minutes. Add the cream and cook for a further 10 minutes. Puree the soup in a blender and pass through a fine sieve. Chill over ice and check the seasoning when cold. Serve cold. To garnish: Sprinkle with crystalised ginger and drizzle with pumpkin oil.
