The ultimate Hawaii island guide from an Aussie expat
Take it from an Aussie expat who’s been calling Hawaii home for the past 10 years: There are a few things you need to know before you arrive in these islands.
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The happiness that comes from choosing Hawaii as your next holiday destination can quickly turn to confusion as you try to decide which islands to visit. With six different islands fit for travel, the struggle is real … but not for long. Whichever one you pick, you’re in for a super holiday, but a bit of insider knowledge will ensure you get the one that’s right for you.
I’ve spent the past decade getting to know Hawaii, an archipelago that attracts just shy of 10 million visitors annually (around seven times its own population), and continue to island-hop as often as possible. Over time I’ve come to feel the essence of Hawaii’s main islands. Their differences, sometimes noticeable and other times subtle, have helped to reveal their unique personalities.
OAHU, THE SOCIALITE
Oahu is the home of the Hawaiian monarchy and the official seat of government in America’s 50th state. It’s well-known for Honolulu, the capital of Hawaii and primary island gateway. There’s no mistaking the metropolis, six-lane highways and high-rises that skirt the southern shore, but outside of this, Oahu is as country-like as the other Hawaiian islands. This contrast between busy city life and relaxed island serenity gives Oahu universal appeal.
Variety is the spice of life
Oahu is smaller than Australia’s Fraser Island, but size doesn’t hold it back. Oahu has the best transport system in Hawaii and the broadest range of accommodation and restaurants. Mass tourist attractions top Oahu to-do lists, such as Pearl Harbor, Dole Plantation and Polynesian Cultural Center.
365 days in a year
Social butterflies blend right into this island. Oahu hosts the lion’s share of Hawaii’s signature events, from Hawaiian cultural commemorations like King Kamehameha Day Floral Parade to big-wave surfing contests such as Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, and professional golf tournaments including Sony Open in Hawaii.
Hey, big spender
Oahu is Hawaii’s undisputed shopping destination. Shopaholics will delight in Ala Moana Center, America’s largest outdoor shopping mall, and Waikele Premium Outlets, the island’s only outlet centre. International Market Place has more than 100 curated stores, including Hawaii’s first Saks Fifth Avenue. Find bargains at Aloha Stadium Swap Meet, Hawaii’s biggest open-air flea market, and locally made threads at South Shore Market, with Honolulu’s coolest boutiques.
Night on the town
When the sun sets, Oahu is a hotbed of entertainment. Open-bar booze cruises depart Waikiki Beach – try Sail Holokai. Listen to Hawaiian musicians at Kani Ka Pila Grille or catch a show at Blue Note Hawaii jazz club.
Friday and Saturday nights are for drag queen revues at Scarlet Honolulu or dancing at The Manifest, Addiction or Hula’s Bar & Lei Stand, a legend among Honolulu’s gay bars. Dive bars, including Arnold’s Beach Bar and Suzy Wong’s Hideaway keep it real until 2am.
MAUI, MR POPULAR
Maui is the second most-developed island after Oahu, but with 85 per cent fewer residents, it’s much less crowded. Maui wins more “best island” awards than any other Hawaiian island and attracts a steady stream of holidaying celebrities.
Fit for foodies
Maui’s food scene shines as brightly as the tropical landscape. Blessed with more than 800 farms, and several ranches and seafood vendors, the island produces an abundance of organic fruits and vegetables, grass-fed meats and Pacific Ocean fish.
Maui restaurants are the place to taste Hawaii’s fresh flavours through caught-that-morning seafood, high-quality local beef and Maui-grown onions, strawberries, avocados, and more. Most eateries proudly support local farm-to-table cuisine. My favourites are The Mill House, Monkeypod Kitchen or Merriman’s Kapalua.
Just add water
One return guest makes this island stand out. The Au’au Channel, between Maui, Lanai and Molokai, is Hawaii’s most protected ocean passage. It’s shallow and warm, perfect for humpback whales to breed and birth calves. From December to May, thousands of these marine mammals migrate to Maui, popping up along the west coast. Aquatic activities – whale watching, snorkelling, scuba diving, stand up paddle-boarding and kayaking – come with the exciting possibility of a whale encounter.
Creativity flows
Maui is a magnet for eclectic artisans who draw inspiration from its raw natural beauty. Hundreds of talented artists – glass blowers, jewellery makers, photographers, potters, sculptors and woodworkers – call Maui home and make up a thriving local arts scene. Creative souls will vibe with this island. Peruse galleries including Maui’s oldest, Village Galleries, take a class at Hui No’eau Visual Arts Center, or attend an exhibition at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center.
Outside comfort zones
With five-star resorts within reach, it’s tempting to spend all day lapping up luxuries on Maui, but the real fun happens outdoors. Soft adventurers can Bike Maui down a dormant volcano, Haleakala, from summit to sea-level, or hike the out-of-this-world slopes of Haleakala National Park.
Conquer twists, turns and waterfalls along Hana Highway, one of America’s most scenic road trips, or see its unique topography from the sky on a Blue Hawaiian helicopter adventure.
ISLAND OF HAWAII, DAREDEVIL
Hawaii’s first monarch, King Kamehameha, was born on Hawaii, the island to the far south. It was his homeland that gave the state its name. To avoid confusion, it’s called the Island of Hawaii or nicknamed the Big Island. The Big Island is a vast landmass – all of the other Hawaiian islands combined could fit on it. Hilo on the wet side (east) is Hawaii’s second biggest town, the CBD and hub for Hawaiian language revitalisation. Kona on the dry side (west) is built for holiday-makers.
Cultural exploration
Hawaiian cultural and spiritual connections are made at the historic sites and parks around the Island of Hawaii. For history buffs, these preserved lands are a real treasure.
Learn about life in early Hawaii by exploring fishponds, ki’i pohaku (petroglyphs) and heiau (temples) at Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park. Take a self-guided tour of a partially restored fishing settlement, thought to be 600 years old, at Lapakahi State Historical Park.
Awe-some tours
The Island of Hawaii brings the wow factor with once-in-a-lifetime experiences. As the only Hawaiian island with active volcanoes, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is the spot for all lava-related pursuits. Feel the warmth of steam vents, navigate underground lava tubes and traverse lava fields with Hawaii Forest & Trail.
The stargazing program atop Mauna Kea is second to none, thanks to the world’s most powerful telescopes and almost no light pollution. Ascend above the clouds with Mauna Kea Summit & Stars Small Group Adventure Tour for an unforgettable sunset and shooting star extravaganza. Rug up because there’s always a chance of snow!
Manta rays silently swim under the ocean’s surface along Kona’s coastline. To witness these gentle creatures, hit the water after dark with Jack’s Diving Locker. Snorkellers and scuba divers band together, shining torchlight into the underwater void, illuminating plankton (manta food) and enticing the rays to say aloha.
Flop and drop
Hawaii’s sunny Kohala Coast has mega-resorts, destinations unto themselves. If flop and drop is your style of holiday, base yourself here.
Hilton Waikoloa Village spans 25 oceanfront hectares, transporting guests between hotel towers by canal boat or tram. There are 1800 pieces of art on-site, an ocean-fed lagoon with tropical fish and Hawaiian green sea turtles, three pools, 53m waterslide, dolphin sanctuary, world-class spa and two championship golf courses.
Just keep driving
With more kilometres than any other island in Hawaii, the Big Island boasts three official Scenic Byways.
The Mamalahoa Kona Heritage Corridor (16km) winds through the landscapes of Hualalai dormant volcano, past architecture, shrines and coffee farms. Royal Footsteps Along the Kona Coast (11km) tells a story about Hawaii’s ruling class as it travels Alii Drive.
Kau Scenic Byway (86km) leads to the southernmost tip of the US, past long stretches of untouched natural scenery.
KAUAI, BEAUTY QUEEN
As the oldest Hawaiian island, millions of years have gone into Kauai aesthetics. It’s the stuff of which Hawaii dreams are made – deserted white beaches, see-through turquoise ocean, rich green rainforests. One of the wettest places on Earth, it gushes waterfalls, vivid rainbows abound.
Kauai’s history lies in the rise and fall of sugar and pineapple industries and, unlike the other Hawaiian islands, 90 per cent of its land remains rural and undeveloped.
Paradise found
Kauai is called the Garden Isle for a reason. Step inside one of its National Tropical Botanical Gardens, and see why. McBryde Garden is like entering a fairytale of palm trees, heliconias and orchids. Take a heavenly walk through the largest original collection of native Hawaiian flora.
Next door, Allerton Garden is a scene straight out of Jurassic Park, the movie. You can’t miss the majestic, perhaps familiar, Moreton Bay fig trees (where Sam Neill’s Dr Grant discovered velociraptor eggs).
Eye of the beholder
As the backdrop to at least 60 films and TV shows, Kauai is supremely beautiful. Mother Nature feels intensified on Kauai from the depths of Waimea Canyon, a smaller version of America’s Grand Canyon, to the heights of the Napali Coast, colossal cliffs towering above the ocean.
Book with Kauai Photo Tours and allow a local photographer to escort you to the island’s most picturesque locations.
Namaste
Kauai’s countryside is a peaceful setting for wellness activities. Foster a positive mind, body and spirit by visiting one of Kauai’s many healing centres or attending a spiritual retreat. Pampering services can be tied into any Kauai stay, such as Angeline’s Kauai Lomi Lomi Massage, Kauai Yoga on the Beach or Anara Spa treatments at the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort.
The inside look
Most development on Kauai is set around the island perimeter leaving the interior vegetation to grow wild and free. It’s a jungle out there and the best way to see it is from the air. While helicopter flights remain the most popular choice of aerial adventure, Skydive Kauai and Wings Over Kauai Air Tours (by small plane) provide exhilarating options.
LANAI & MOLOKAI, LESSER-KNOWN GEMS
Lanai and Molokai are two small islands visible off Maui’s west coast.
Hawaii’s only ferry service provides transport between Maui and Lanai, making Lanai popular for day trips. The best-kept secrets on this island are remote beaches, scenic lookouts and rock formations only accessible by hiring a 4WD vehicle.
Lanai’s anchor property is a Four Seasons resort overlooking Hulopoe Bay, which features a Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course. It’s no surprise Lanai is dubbed Hawaii’s most exclusive isle, those not on a day trip from Maui are usually flying in by private jet.
Molokai has a significant Native Hawaiian population and retains a traditional way of life. The island is unspoiled, has few hotels, and no traffic lights or buildings taller than a coconut tree.
Fewer than 5000 people visit Molokai every year and the locals, while friendly to travellers, prefer to keep tourism at bay.
Ashlee Galea is an Aussie living in Hawaii who enjoys sharing Hawaii insider knowledge and travel advice on her blog, The Hawaii Admirer.
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Originally published as The ultimate Hawaii island guide from an Aussie expat
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