The Philippines: The island paradise Aussies have been overlooking

Crystalline waters? Tick. Powder white sand? Tick. Kaleidoscope of marine life? Tick. The only surprise at this island paradise is the absence of Aussie tourists.

Plantation Bay Resort and Spa, Mactan Island, Cebu, the Philippines.

It makes perfect sense. How could an archipelago that is comprised of more than 7000 islands not have a preponderance of beautiful beaches? But despite the bleedingly obvious mathematical probability, when choosing getaways with sun, sand and snorkelling as priorities, the Philippines had never been on my radar.

In fact, apart from the famous names associated with its recent volatile politics – Marcos, Aquino, Duterte – I knew little about the country, and to my shameful surprise only realised during preliminary research that its capital, Manila, is pretty much due north and a hop over Indonesia from Broome.

Almost no one I knew had been to Las Islas Filipinas, except for friends who visited the white-sand beaches of Boracay while living in Hong Kong in the 1990s – and before my trip colleagues expressed everything from surprise to concern when told of my upcoming destination.

Clearly, with the bulk of the republic’s tourists arriving from the US, Korea, Japan and China, Australian holiday-makers have largely overlooked this Pacific gem. And yet the “Pearl of the Orient Seas” ticks every box on a tropical paradise checklist, and all with a flying time from Australia’s east coast on par with Bangkok, Da Nang or Kuala Lumpur, South-East Asia’s perennially popular jumping-off points for beach resort holidays.

Plantation Bay Resort and Spa.

So with beachwear and a giant tube of SPF50+ sunscreen packed (note to self: next time remember the 100ml liquid limit for carry-on baggage), I’m all set to board Philippine Airlines flight PR212 to Manila.

After a brief touchdown in the capital on the island of Luzon, I’m in the air again for a short hop to Mactan-Cebu International Airport, then a drive to Plantation Bay Resort and Spa, just 30 minutes away – Cebu’s notoriously congested traffic willing. Set amid 11ha of beachside land, the property is focused around enormous man-made lagoons. Especially suited to families or those who want to lounge around and embrace the full resort experience in ultra-safe surrounds, Plantation Bay is a relaxing place to lay your hat and beach towel.

With a huge range of activities from archery to tennis to stand-up paddle boarding, impressive spa facilities and several restaurants, the largest of which changes its internationally themed dining daily, it’s not hard to imagine spending a week here and never setting foot outside the gates. (One Swiss family apparently stayed two months.)

But this would be beyond even my level of holiday inertia, so a trip or two into the bustling centre of Cebu City is a must. Over and above the airconditioned shopping malls crammed with potential bargains is a rich history dating back to the archipelago’s 16th-century Spanish conquerors. (The Philippines was named after Spain’s King Philip II.)

Plantation Bay Resort and Spa.

And, for me, a trip into Cebu City on a Sunday provides a resonant reminder of what makes Filipino culture so different from that of other South-East Asian nations. Gone is the pungent scent of burning incense and evocative sight of saffron-robed monks wandering past shimmering gold leaf-gilded stupas. Here we are among the largest population of Christians in Asia.

On Sunday, a trip to Basilica del Santo Niño is a must. Worshippers pack its courtyard, squeezing into outdoor masses after jostling past incongruous balloon sellers brandishing scores of vibrant helium-filled Hello Kittys, Nemos and Peppa Pigs. In contrast to the dwindling congregations in Australian Catholic churches, all age groups are out in force to publicly pledge their faith, ably representing the eight in every 10 Filipinos who profess Catholicism. This is worship with a mardi gras buzz.

It was the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan who claimed the islands for Spain in 1521 and planted a Christian cross in Cebu. Magellan’s Cross neighbours the basilica and is perhaps the most important historical landmark in the city. Each day tourists throng and devotees light candles and offer prayers.

Also close by is Fort San Pedro. It’s the oldest and smallest fort in the Philippines and over the years has served as a lookout and fortification against hostile enemies approaching by sea, as well as a prison, a school and a hospital.

Secret Lagoon beach in El Nido, in the Philippines’ Palawan province.

But with all the bustle and rich history of Cebu City, I’m yearning for more beach time.

A 90-minute flight away is Lio Airport with a backdrop reminiscent of Mount Lidgbird and Mount Gower rising imposingly from the sea at the southern tip of Lord Howe Island. From Lio it’s a 45-minute boat transfer to El Nido Lagen Island Resort in the Philippines’ Palawan province, which itself comprises more than 1700 islands. The antithesis of the man-made uniformity of Plantation Bay, this is eco tourism and nature at its breathtaking best in the most sparsely populated region in the country. The luxurious yet low-key resort – which features forest rooms and suites, nine beachfront cottages and a further 18 cottages perched on stilts above the translucent shallows – is flanked by towering limestone cliffs, dripping with vegetation offering camouflage to families of macaques and hornbills.

El Nido Lagen Island.

Again it’s tempting not to leave the resort, with its world-class snorkelling spot just a few metres offshore and poolside bar with evening views of the sun setting over the lapping tides.

But leave I must if I’m to explore the delights of Bacuit Bay. Hopping aboard a motorised banca – a traditional Filipino double-outrigger canoe – we skim over water as bright and inviting as a blue Curaçao-based cocktail on a hot summer’s day.

A must see is Miniloc Island, with its rugged coastline dotted with pristine white-sand beaches and home to the spectacular Big Lagoon and even more alluring Small Lagoon. To enter the Small Lagoon it’s time to abandon the banca and either swim or kayak in through a narrow passage between two giant limestone monoliths. Once inside, the colour palette is more incredible shades of emerald and turquoise, the water sparkling like the gemstones it replicates.

The Big Lagoon at Miniloc Island.

Later, back in the banca we complete the return voyage to Lagen Island just as rain begins to tear itself from grey, stormy clouds in violent sheets. The late-afternoon rainstorm perfectly punctuates the end to my seaside break.

Two days later at Manila airport, I’m tanned and relaxed, with my knowledge of the Philippines vastly enriched. In 1942, United States Army general Douglas MacArthur emphatically vowed that he would return to the Philippines.

Some 75 years later, in different circumstances but with the same conviction, I make the same pledge.

The writer was a guest of the Philippine Department of Tourism and Philippine Airlines.

Originally published as The Philippines: The island paradise Aussies have been overlooking