Unico Zelo: Making grape strides

Should we acknowledge all-female wine-making teams? Yes. In a traditionally male-dominated industry, it’s an important step in the right direction.

Brendan and Laura Carter at the Unico Zelo cellar door in Gumeracha

Brendan Carter is proud as punch. He should be. His winemaker wife, Laura, is at the helm of their all-female Unico Zelo team.

“I was once told by a winemaker that women don’t belong in the cellar,” Brendan says.

“We will be, I believe, one of the few wineries that’s 100 per cent female run and I reckon we’re going to make the best wines we’ve ever made this vintage. It’s awesome.”

Laura is more concerned about making great wine than she is about what’s between her (and her employees’) legs. That’s the way it should be.

“It’s just the way it unfolded,” she says. “I had an even split of candidates and ultimately it just came down to work ethic and whether they were willing to give it a go.”

Her two new colleagues, Caroline and Megan, are in charge of processing the fruit including crushing and daily pump overs.

Brendan and Laura Carter and Unico Zelo. Photo: Dylan Coker

Should we acknowledge all-female teams? Yes. In a traditionally male-dominated industry, it’s an important step in the right direction.

I’m not a fan of the marketing-based inclination to sexualise the art (no-one makes wine in high heels) but if the end product is great and the tenacity boundless, then we should shout grower and winemaker’s praises from the rooftop.

Unico Zelo River Sand Fiano

Inspirational mentors – male or female – are the way forward.

If Leconfield Wines’ Sid Hamilton hadn’t taken Ursula Pridham under his wing she may never have produced the approachable, elegant Marienberg wines enjoyed by a young market during the 1960s – a time when the wine industry was particularly male dominated.

This isn’t about bloke bashing – it’s about raising a glass to the men and women who carve a positive, supportive way forward.

Unico Zelo Jade Jasper Fiano

“I’ve had a really positive experience in the industry right from the start,” Laura says.

“My former boss (a guy) gave me a chance in the cellar when I asked for it. That put me on the path I’m on now.”

Foresight is one of Laura’s biggest strengths. That, and work ethic. She and her team champion “climate-change varieties” such as fiano and nero d’avola.

Despite enduring multiple heatwaves, their fruit (sourced from the Riverland, Clare and Adelaide Hills) looks good.

Try the Unico Zelo’s 2017 Jade & Jasper Fiano ($22.99)for a textural, vibrant introduction to the variety.

For a more serious fiano, try Unico Zelo’s 2017 River Sand ($34.99) – it’s aromatic, textural and refined.