Simon Wilkinson reviews Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant
OPENED with much fanfare in a stately setting, Hardy’s Verandah is the special-occasion restaurant Adelaide didn’t know it needed.
TALK about raising expectations. While most new eateries are happy to fly under the radar for a while, Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant launched with a black-tie, masquerade party. Even the Premier was invited. That came after two months of “developmental experiences”, another way of saying “don’t expect the full package, even if the price is the same”. It all seemed so overblown and self-important that actually dining there had to be a let-down, right? Not at all.
Central to the first stage of the luxury redevelopment of grand old Mount Lofty House, HVR is a reminder that there is still a place for intelligent, intricate food, a wonderful setting and some of life’s little formalities. It is the special occasion restaurant that Adelaide didn’t know it needed – more accessible than Orana or Magill, more up-with-the-times than Windy Point or even the other Verandah at d’Arry’s, not as weird as Hill of Grace.
Expect tables alongside the window, with a dress-circle view across the Piccadilly Valley, to be in demand, particularly when there are less than 10 of them, holding one couple each, available on any given night.
From this vantage point, before the sun sets, you can see right out towards Uraidla and Basket Range, where the unkempt winemaking ratbags are making a name for themselves. The building around you, however, is a timely reminder that the Hills has long been the territory of the Establishment, in this case the politician and lawyer, Arthur Hardy.
After tough times as a worn-out hotel and function centre, it seems finally to have owners with the drive and wherewithal to realise its potential.
The restaurant, as well as an atmospheric bar and just-completed wine cellar, make up the first stage of Mount Lofty House’s transformation into a high-end, boutique accommodation. The aim is six stars, no less.
The investment has also been made in finding the right staff. New head chef Wayne Brown is originally from Brisbane and, despite his young face, has experience in Japan, Singapore and, most recently, heading the kitchen of Sake in Melbourne and Sydney. The floor team is led by sommelier Patrick White who is establishing the cellar with his picks from both his own doorstep and regions far and wide. It’s a formidable package, right down to the Reidel Veritas glassware and sake flasks custom made by artist Nick Mount.
A quartet of bite-sized starters, including salmon roe and soured cream in a fragile tart case, and a memorable lozenge of unctuous sea urchin wrapped in wilted kale, show the chef’s hand early. So does his take on sashimi, an assembly of kingfish, pickled seaweed and cultured cream. A Japanese sensibility, if not ingredients, is never far away. And cream adds richness and softens flavours – too often, perhaps.
A generous mound of blue swimmer crab meat, as fresh as any I’ve had, and poached Goolwa pipis rises like an island in a sea of macadamia milk with bright green grape gel amoeba floating about. Shaved fennel adds some bite. It’s white on white on white and tastes heavenly.
Three small pucks of ocean trout come with beetroot and fermented blueberry puree playing like savoury jam alongside a blob of salted brown butter cream that’s incredibly more-ish up to the point where it becomes too much.
Smoked pig cheek with a surprise snap of fine tuille sits on a blob of peach marmalade and is topped with a Mohawk of dried scallop floss.
There’s been a lot to take in, so the pared back simplicity of excellent Blackmore wagyu with fried garlic chips, fresh wasabi and smoked salt is a relief.
A “palate cleanser” of soured plum sorbet and custard cream dusted with grapefruit sherbet is followed by a narrow finger of chocolate tart with layers of cocoa nib and mousse topped in a ganache that gleams like the duco on a sports car. That tart is almost reason alone to opt for the longer “Full Story” menu.
The promo video for HVR – Gatsby in modern duds – shows it has a particular clientele in mind. When the hotel rooms and helipad are finished, international jetsetters may well have the best tables booked months ahead. Until then at least, I reckon it has a lot to offer for the rest of us, looking for good food and a view. The Premier even.
Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant
Mount Lofty House, Mount Lofty Summit Road, Crafers, 8339 6777, hardysverandahrestaurant.com.au
OWNERS David Horbelt, Malcolm Bean CHEF Wayne Brown FOOD Contemporary Australian
SHORT STORY $109 (matched wines $60) FULL STORY $160 ($105).
DRINKS The development of the cellar is only just underway, but already Patrick White’s distinctive collection has plenty of interest for most budgets and tastes, including a few aged gems that are sold by the glass.
SCORE 8