Simon Wilkinson finds reason to stop near McLaren Vale at Victor’s Place

A couple’s heroic vision has transformed the crumbling remains of a barn into a charming eatery and cellar door at the gateway to the Fleurieu.

Kathrin Dressler and Alan Varney from Victor's Place. Picture: Supplied

As a tourism gateway, the corner doesn’t look terribly promising, with its servo and bedraggled shopping strip. Only a sign overhead shows that after making it this far down South Rd or the Expressway, there are better times ahead.

Straight along are Aldinga, Sellicks and eventually Yankalilla. A left turn leads to the pleasures of McLaren Vale and on to the holiday playgrounds of Victor Harbor and the rest of the South Coast.

Of those following the latter path over the years, few will have paid much attention to the crumbling remains of an old stone barn that is the first marker of a rural landscape.

Alan Varney, however, saw the potential of the property as he drove by day after day on his way to a winemaking job. He dreamt, then planned and, finally, opened a restaurant, cellar door and brewery with partner Kathrin earlier this year.

Victor’s Place, the name a reference to the road and destination, is something special. The kindred spirits of the old property and its unwavering owners makes this an experience with a personality all of its own.

The old barn, rebuilt with a cleverly disguised roof and glass sealing the open side, has become the dining space, with tables spilling outside and picnic rugs on a fresh patch of lawn. Beyond that, the hillside falls away to reveal the township of Old Noarlunga and, blurring into the distance, the deep scar of the Onkaparinga Gorge.

Smoked kangaroo loin and pickled beetroot at Victor's Place

It’s an idyllic setting that comes to life on a Sunday afternoon, with a few kids scampering across the grass and, later in the day, a guitarist playing. Inside, a mixed bunch fill the tables, including more children and a couple of prams parked in the aisles. The family-friendly feel extends to the staff, with a young boy helping clear tables.

If that sounds a tad folksy, the cooking is quite the opposite, the ideas and execution sophisticated and showing a solid grasp of the contemporary Australian playbook, with plenty of grains, vegies, nuts and seeds.

Chef Joey Taylor, an old friend of Alan, has worked in many of the Fleurieu’s noted establishments, including the Currant Shed and d’Arry’s Verandah. His menu is strong on smaller serves and snacks, including the sweet potato chips with taleggio dip we see heading out to the lawn. Four larger plates make it possible to build a substantial meal.

Slices of kangaroo loin, with a pleasing smokiness and the ruby lustre of prosciutto, are laid over a base of chewy freekeh, with wedges of lightly picked beets, in both purple and golden tones, tucked in the gaps. A mix of toasted seeds and roughly chopped herbs is scattered over the top. The layers of nutty, earthy flavours and interplay of textures all work well.

Grilled asparagus spears, strictly past their seasonal peak, sit alongside a spreading pool of white almond-based gazpacho that has been whizzed into a foam. They are sprinkled with shavings of cured egg yolk and dried miso that is a little overpowering by the end.

Grilled asparagus and almond gaspacho at Victor's Place

A perfectly managed pork cutlet – dark, seared crust giving way to meat with just a hint of pinkness – is accompanied by shredded green apple, chickpeas and cauliflower florets chopped to match the legumes. A light reduction sauce, cut with cider vinegar, brings together a convincing take on a Sunday pork roast.

A more ambitiously modern plate of seafood brings prawns, cockles, mussels and a fillet of mulloway, all covered in a white foam as if dumped on the beach by a rogue wave. Beneath them is a surprisingly rich carrot and ginger puree and raw saltbush leaves that have a lingering bitterness. The fish, unfortunately, isn’t in great condition and I don’t think the combination jells.

Dessert offers safer ground, with batons of poached rhubarb, toasted granola and a scoop of barley malt ice cream that links back to the brewing operation next door.

Rhubarb and granola at Victor's Place

Victor’s Place stays open for dinner so is positioned perfectly for a stopover on the way home from a day of cellar doors or surf. Or call by earlier in the day and you might find no need to go further.

VICTOR’S PLACE

62 Victor Harbor Rd, Old Noarlunga

0467 466 212; victorsplace.com.au

OWNER Alan Varney, Kathrin Dressler

CHEF Joey Taylor Food Contemporary

SMALL $10-$26 LARGE $32-$40 DESSERT $16

DRINKS Small portfolio of estate wines, plus a list of “friends, neighbours and imports”. Tasting flight of beers available.

Open for

LUNCH and DINNER Thu-Mon

From today, reviews in SAWeekend will be judged out of 20. Points are allocated for food, service, drinks and “X factor”. As a guide, total scores indicate: 1-9 Fail; 10-11 Passable;

11-12 Satisfactory; 13-14 Recommended; 15-16 Very good; 17-18 Outstanding; 19-20 World class.