‘No vegan restaurant has achieved anything like this in Adelaide before’
A sophisticated plant-based dining experience has been inspired by its owners’ concern for animal welfare, writes Simon Wilkinson
delicious SA
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When one of Australia’s supermarket giants makes a hullabaloo about its “chicken-free chicken”, you know that plant-based foods have made the big time.
Personally, I find the concept of fake meat like this baffling. If you don’t want to eat the flesh of an animal for ethical or health reasons, fair enough. But what then is the appeal of a synthetic substitute produced to mimic the texture and taste?
Celeriac “steak”… now, that’s another matter. Slices of the veg are braised, then grilled over an open fire, the enticing char on the edges resonating with a smoked macadamia cream. A glass of mataro is right at home. It’s a dish that makes a rock star of the nobbly, knotted bulb that only its mother could love – and typical of the thinking at Allegra Dining Room.
Recently opened above Etica pizzeria in the city’s southeast, Allegra elevates plant-based foods to a level of sophistication rarely seen here. Vegetables are celebrated for what they are and what they can become.
For owners Federico and Melissa Pisanelli, Allegra is a continuation of their focus on animal welfare. At Etica (meaning ethical), they make a point of only dealing with farms that do the right thing. Their now-closed Bar Etica famously forced customers to confront the reality of the dairy industry by hanging a stuffed cow from the ceiling. Some animal lovers and vegans were appalled. They should be much happier with what this intriguing couple are doing now.
The stairs up to Allegra make an immediate impression, with a twisted handrail that looks like an ancient tree root and a persistent bass beat reverberating from above.
The narrow space at the top, once home to seminal ’80s restaurant Glo-Bo’s, fits 28 diners on a mix of banquettes and traditional seating. At the far end, a vague street scene shimmers through gossamer curtains, while a vibrant artwork dominates one wall.
The whole package is remarkably polished. Linen napkins are placed on laps. Gorgeous ceramic bowls are dropped at the centre of wooden chargers. Service, led by Melissa, is flawless. The five stages of the set $70 menu are matched by inspired wine selections that swing from Vanya Cullen’s pet-nat, to Italian soave, to the mataro from Ministry of Clouds.
That first sparkling is accompanied by four attention-grabbing snacks. Pickled wedges of daikon, carrot and turnip are dipped into a luscious cream of emulsified soy bean, a small dribble of dark toasted sesame oil packing amazing punch.
A buckwheat cracker carries slices of smoked beetroot, a soured version of the cream and pink pearls of finger lime. It’s a single bite that leaves you wanting more. A crumbed croquette of potato, leek and mustard is topped with ridged spheres of chive mayonnaise that look like little cacti. And a bowl of avocado chunks, romanesco (green cauli) puree, puffed wild rice and nori dressing is guacamole for adults.
All this comes with terrific rye sourdough and virgin oil from Ngeringa, the Hills biodynamic winery and market garden that also provides much of the other produce.
Larger serves begin with florets of roasted broccoli sandwiched between a base of pine nut cream and a mudslide of fluffy polenta. Kimchi has been dehydrated and ground to sprinkle over the top, though I’m not sure its subtle impact is worth that effort.
You can almost see fingerprints on the orecchiette, the little pasta shells hand-made downstairs. Cauliflower is a classic partner but here turned into a puree that lacks any distinct flavour and needs fried breadcrumbs, a garlic oil and a smattering of pulverised olive to give a helping hand.
The celeriac and macadamia is presented as the main event and comes with a pair of sides: a salad of mixed leaves, pear, sprouting lentils and fried curry leaves; and mixed grain salad with shredded spring onion.
A glossy billow of soft Italian meringue that is the star of dessert is so luxurious it’s hard to believe it could be whipped up from something as mundane as the water leftover from cooking chickpeas. A few crimson pieces of rhubarb compote poke out from beneath the white cloud, while a roasted pistachio gelato and candied pistachios rest on top.
This has been a meal that satisfies on all levels: filling, wholesome, appealing to all the senses, brimming with new ideas. No vegan restaurant has achieved anything like this in Adelaide before. Someone from the supermarkets should take a look.
ALLEGRA DINING ROOM
Level 1, 125 Gilbert St, Adelaide
allegradiningroom.com
OWNERSMelissa and Federico Pisanelli
CHEF Elliot Vials
FOOD All plant based
FIVE COURSES $70; $135 with wine
to match
DRINKSSmall but very smart list, with an emphasis on organic fruit
OPEN DINNER Thu-Sun
SCORE 15.5/10