Historic Port Admiral Hotel reborn thanks to Crispian Fielke, Stewart Wesson and Angus Henderson
THE revival of Port Adelaide takes a big step forward today when the historic pub at its most prominent corner pours its first beer in more than 10 years.
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THE revival of Port Adelaide takes a big step forward today when the historic pub at its most prominent corner pours its first beer in more than 10 years.
The Port Admiral Hotel, resplendent in its new black and white livery, has been brought back to life by a collaboration of hospitality young guns, many of them with a personal connection to the area.
The three working directors are Crispian Fielke (Clever Little Tailor), Stewart Wesson (Whistle & Flute) and Angus Henderson, from Low & Slow American BBQ a few doors away.
The first, ground-floor stage, incorporating front bar, saloon and bottle shop inside, as well as a beer garden and terrace seating along one side, preserves features from the original building in a more contemporary, light-filled design.
“We kept coming back to the fact that it had to still feel like a pub,” Crispian says of the development process, in consultation with Woods Bagot and Crafty.
“We can bring in beautiful things but ultimately it has to be a pub. It has to be usable on Tuesday morning for the people from council who are meeting here as well as on the Friday night when we are making negronis and the wood grill is on.”
So the striking terrazzo has been retained as a “datum line” that runs at eye level on the walls, while the bar top has been replaced with beautiful Tasmanian oak.
The collaborations in the project stretch far and wide beyond the three key players and include many of the brightest minds in hospitality.
Pirate Life has brewed the Port Local lager that will be sold via tap and tins. Josh Baker, a partner of Crispian in Clever Little Tailor and Stewart in Whistle & Flute, has overseen the coffee. Dana Whyte (CLT) helped with the design. The two other members of Low & Slow, Angus Kiley and Jim Morrison are also involved. “Everyone is involved in a creation sense, in the heartbeat of the pub,” Crispian says.
The hotel will offer two menus, overseen by Stewart with Michael Proud (Oggi) as head chef. An all-day fish and chipper list includes local battered fish, a seafood basket and “Wesso’s Schmiko Roll”.
The pub food menu of burgers, schnitzels et cetera is all under $20, while the grills and particularly the veg selection has the chef’s signature bright, seasonal touch.
Crispian says reviving the Port Admiral, which first traded in 1849, has been an emotional experience.
“It’s an important pub visually, an important pub physically where it is on the Black Diamond Corner,” he says. “It means so much to a lot of people. I’ve had numerous exchanges with locals in the street ranging from thanking us to almost telling us off if we don’t get it right. It has driven our desire to do it properly.”
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