Africola
THE spice-laden undercurrents of northern Africa are still there, but the culinary boundaries have shifted — to great effect.
Food Guide
Don't miss out on the headlines from Food Guide. Followed categories will be added to My News.
4 East Tce, city
(08) 8223 3885
CHICKEN skin sandwich meet “koeksister”. If that sandwich, with its dunking bowl of pan drippings, is Africola’s symbolically daggy yet delicious greeting then its play on a traditional Afrikaner doughnut must be the other bookend — albeit with more sophisticated trimmings of ricotta, coffee and burnt honey.
Along with the peri peri chicken, it is one of the few reminders of this rollicking little party house’s original form, when it celebrated the backyard “brais” and shanty bars that were part of the upbringing of Johannesburg-raised owner/chef and chief scallywag Duncan Welgemoed. With his culinary dark arts in demand around the country, the kitchen team at Africola has grown in size and influence, particularly through head chef Imogen Czulowski, which might in part explain the culinary boundaries shifting again.
The spice-laden undercurrents of northern Africa are still there, as are the next-level dips and falafel. However, you might also encounter Hiramasa kingfish that has hung for five days before being portioned for sashimi that makes the countless other versions around town look dull. The same fish is also served as fillet with saffron and fennel butter and the whole roasted tail to share.
Vegos, vegans and those with other requirements are always looked after — if there is roast cabbage or cauli don’t miss out.
The SA-only wine selection has also become more inclusive, with a greater variety of regions and principles. Throw in one of our best service crews led by Nikki Friedli and last year’s Restaurant of the Year remains at the top of the heap.
- Hours: D Tues-Sat
- Bill: E $10-17 M $15-60 D $15
- Wine: Wine list, plus BYO | Corkage $20
- Chefs: Duncan Welgemoed, Imogen Czulowski
