Cheap Eats review: Burger Theory

INTRODUCING kangaroo to their menu was a business risk, but the proof is in the (potato) bun, writes Jessica Galletly.

COWS go moo, kangaroos hop, and they both taste delicious in a burger.

When cult Adelaide food truck-turned-city-diner Burger Theory announced it was switching its patty recipe to four parts kangaroo, one part beef, people got a little freaked.

“But what will it TASTE like?!” they fretted.

“What about the kangaroos, the poor kangaroos!?”

For the wiser diner, BT’s new patty was a chance to try something new, and what the owners claim to be a “plentiful, sensible alternative to farmed red meat”.

It’s called: Smashface.

Truckburger and falafel burger at Burger Theory.

So I finally made my way to Burger Theory’s east end haunt to try this roo rah-rah. And it was a far cry from my very first BT experience, from the food truck many years ago.

They’ve got a great space here. Plenty of seating, inside and out. Nothing fancy — booths, an illuminated menu board and sodas on tap. The scent of freshly-grilled meat is reminiscent of Maccas but without the air of early morning hangovers or regret.

There’s also a much smaller menu to the Big M. Truckburger, cheeseburger, hamburger and falafel. That’s it.

You can double the meat and upgrade to a meal with fries and a softy for $6 (or $9.50-$10.50 with booze), but for the main part, a burger will set you back $7.80 (hamburger is $6.80).

In true retro style, our order — the Truckburger and falafel — are popped on to a tray, partially wrapped in silver foil with their fillings peeping out. It might not make the cover of a food magazine, but their assembly makes for easy eating, even with one hand — unlike the slightly heavy, saucy mess of the former food truck bun (not to say the mess wasn’t worth it).

Smashface (that’s the new patty, remember) is cooked-through but still juicy and, well, tastes of beef. Together with a slice of cheese, tomato, lettuce and tangy mayo, it makes for a well thought-out, tasty burger that doesn’t feel too naughty.

Ask for the addition of karkalla “pickle” — a native succulent otherwise known as Pig Face (really). It adds the perfect, pickly bite.

Fwd: Burger Theory, Adelaide. Pic Jessica Galletly

The falafel is their only vego option, and is super crunchy — maybe a little too much crunch-to-fluffy interior — but it’s a good alternative to Smashface.

While they’ve gone all native with their fillings, buns are imported from the US. The owners say there’s nothing like Martin’s Potato rolls — and it’s a good bun. But I wonder who would notice the difference from a local substitute.

A quick note on the fries: get them. Either in a meal or $3 for a generous cup. Crisp, fluffy and nicely seasoned, they’re easily and entirely smashable, too.