Bun diner works its way back on the quick-dish list

THERE’S almost palpable sadness when you “lose” a local diner, especially one that’s quick, cheap, and open every night.

CHEAP EATS: Salt & pepper pork, tom yum and cold rolls at Bun Vermicelli. Picture: MATT TURNER

THERE’S almost palpable sadness when you “lose” a local diner, especially one that’s quick, affordable, and open every night.

Bun Vermicelli cooked up cracker stuff for about six or seven years. Then things changed, and it went to our ho-hum, maybe-not basket.

As typically fickle diners, ever seeking a cheap and cheerful not-far-to-drive solution, we gave it another go. It’s not be back at the top of the quick-eats pile, but “I’ll be back”.

Our disappointment came around the time the place changed hands, about three years ago. Former staff member John Yin, now the chef/owner, obviously experienced some hiccups in the transition. These days, he’s back and front of house, overseeing lightening service, and, the food is fresh.

Bun Vermicelli continues to be a takeaway diner, with a few comfy-enough tables. It’s light, bright and clean. Creating atmosphere is not a priority. In busy times, it could be cosy enough, but this Tuesday night we are a solo foursome, and wondering if the kitchen crew can hear our every word.

We can certainly hear a lot of worrisome beeping, like an overworked microwave, but there also is some wok work going on. Perhaps components are heated, then finished over the flame?

We grab a big bag of fresh prawn crackers for $2 to munch while waiting for our meals, but there’s no need. The dishes come fast, and with no demarcation between courses.

The laminated double-sided menu has plenty of options, from bahnmi to curries, noodles and the “house signature” pho.

Cold rolls to start are fresh and still warm, plump, and decent value at $5 for two, with a perky peanut sauce. Lettuce and vermicelli with fried chicken fill out the well-constructed chunky rolls, but we do miss the pop of herbs.

The soup man in our group orders the chicken tom yum, not so easy to share. It’s a bit on the thin side and heavy on the lemony finish. He adds chilli to give it more heat and happily slurps up the lot.

The steamed dims are just fine, as is the nasi goreng topped with a crispy edged fried egg. The rice, a main course serve for $11.90, would be much better with fresh veg instead of the frozen mix.

Fresh greens are obviously saved for the curries, the two we try a bit sweet, but hearty and generous. The duck curry is super hot as if straight from the microwave, the sauce quite gluggy, but it features nice al dente colourful fresh veggies obviously added late in the cooking.

The winner tonight is salt and pepper pork ribs, freshly tossed in the wok. They are boneless, sticky, and, with a good hit of sechuan pepper, give us pleasantly numb tongues, so ask for this dish to come last.

ADDRESS: 389 Fullarton Rd, Fullarton, 8373 7771

FOOD: Vietnamese

OWNER/CHEF: John Yin

PRICE: $10.90-$14.90

DRINKS: Not licensed

OPEN: Mon-Sat 11.30am-8.30pm, Sun 5pm-8.30pm.

A TMOSPHERE: None really. It’s a takeaway diner with some tables, best for a quick meal on the run.

CROWD: Locals, all ages.

TRY: Bahn mi for lunch. Salt and pepper pork ribs.

TIP: Ask them to pace the meal, if you’re not in a hurry..