Adelaide’s top 60 — the restaurants
IT’S Food Month and almost time for the online launch of The Advertiser’s 2018 Food Guide. This year, we found a swag of great eateries, but we’ve narrowed down the must-visit list for you. Here’s our pick of Adelaide’s very best restaurants.
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IT used to be “Can I have a window seat?”. Or maybe “Is the fish fresh?”. Now the questions being asked of our restaurants are becoming more complex and demanding by the day. “Does Dish A contain gluten/dairy/onion/nuts/chilli?” “Can Dish B be made with beef rather than chicken?” “Are the potatoes low-carb?” “Is the wine made with sulphur or egg whites?”
More and more, however, the information diners want most surrounds the provenance of the produce being used. Who’s the grower? What’s the breed? Where’s the farm? When was said item harvested or caught?
The best chefs will have all the answers – that is if they aren’t growing the vegies themselves. This shrinking distance between crop and kitchen is a recurring theme among the finalists for The Advertiser Food Awards in 2017. Our reviewers have visited more than 200 restaurants and casual eateries all over the state in picking those good enough to make the cut for The Advertiser Food Guide. From there, we have selected finalists in categories that reflect the different ways people like to eat. These are the basis of the 60 restaurants, cafes and bars listed here.
Finally, we pick a winner in each category for our prestigious awards, then our ultimate accolades, Chef of the Year and Restaurant of the Year. These will be announced on Monday night when chefs, owners and food heroes gather at The Advertiser’s home, Keith Murdoch House, to celebrate the best of the best. The nominations that follow would make an excellent dining checklist over the next year.
TOP SHELF
BOTANIC GARDENS RESTAURANT
A stroll through the Botanic Gardens is an idyllic start to lunch. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer a panoramic view of the surrounds, where head chef Paul Baker grows and forages for many of his ingredients. It might be fennel, which he shaves on to delicate smoked mussel custard set atop bite-sized squid ink crackers. Or the flowering nasturtium, blitzed into a peppery emulsion that brings together a blue swimmer crab and French sausage dish. It’s fine diner food in a relaxed environment, largely thanks to friendly, personable service.
Plane Tree Drive, city; 8223 3526; botanicgardensrestaurant.com.au
HENTLEY FARM
Out in the Barossa’s northwest, just beyond the Seppeltsfield complex, Hentley Farm is a quintessential Australian idyll, historic stone buildings superbly restored in their delightful landscape with a cellar door and restaurant. Lunch is either an exciting four or seven-course journey while dinner is only the seven, both stretching much further with multiple starter snacks and desserts plus petit fours. Signature dishes are much adored: tuna, chicken liver parfait with iceberg leaf and cured egg at one stage, fun, palate-teasing dessert popsicles standing tall at the finale.
Cnr Gerald Roberts and Jenke roads, Seppeltsfield; 8562 8427; hentleyfarm.com.au
MAGILL ESTATE
Magill Estate remains steadfastly in the top echelon of South Australian restaurants, its lounge and dining room offering front-row seats to a view over the newly planted Magill Estate vineyard with the city on the westward horizon. Formal fine dining is the vibe with wine service at its centre, naturally. A progressively inventive, artisan-produce-based menu includes marron, 100-day aged chicken and Wagyu beef in highly creative settings that head chef Scott Huggins now oversees solo. The massive Penfolds-based wine list will satisfy all tastes up to $100,000 for an inaugural 1951 Grange.
78 Penfold Rd, Magill; 8301 5551; magillestaterestaurant.com
RESTAURANT ORANA
Orana has been recognised by The Advertiser and now by other national judges as Restaurant of the Year. The focus remains entirely on the table and menu driven by owner/chef Jock Zonfrillo’s creative use of Australian indigenous ingredients. Dishes come with beach succulents, native fruits, herbs and spices, “chef-sprained” on arrival. Proteins can include crocodile, Coorong mullet, marron and kangaroo (a dish with avocado and lilly pilly fruit is sensational).
285 Rundle St, city; 8232 3444; restaurantorana.com
ST HUGO
A year on from opening and St Hugo’s elite tasting room and restaurant has grown into one of the finest regional dining experiences in the state. Mark McNamara, one of the Barossa’s most creative and technique-savvy cooking minds, has built dishes with intricate taste and textural matches to the elite house wines. Subtly smoked kingfish with oyster cream is inspired, while a sophisticated version of a Barossa traditional smallgood “Jagerbraten” cannot be bypassed. Wagyu with grilled lettuce lifts the bistro roof sky high. Top class.
2141 Barossa Valley Way, Rowland Flat; 8115 9200; sthugo.com
BEST NEW RESTAURANT
CHICCO PALMS
The cool ’50s style of Palm Springs meets the sunny colours of a seaside resort in this rollicking western suburbs pizzeria. Chicco Palms is the kind of place you’ll want to head with friends/family again and again. The main menu kicks off with snacks such as beef carpaccio, vitello tonnato and a chicken cotoletta with a crust still sizzling from the pan. All this is window dressing, though, for the fabulous pizzas, made with slowly risen dough so they stretch like a piece of luxurious fabric, have a chew like al dente pasta and are just starting to puff and bubble at the crust. Dessert? Who has room for that?
437 Henley Beach Rd, Brooklyn Park; 8352 5688; chiccos.com.au
IBERIA
The opening gambit makes perfect sense. “You’ve come to Iberia. You should start with a sherry,” our waitress proffers. Make it a manzanilla that’s as dry as a saltpan, throw in a small pot of olives and you will see one side of this diner and bar in the city’s East End. But Iberia also has a few surprises in store. While you will find jamon, chorizo and tortilla,
they rub shoulders with kohlrabi and native succulents. There is no paella or churros. This is a more contemporary, Australian view of
the Iberian kitchen.
279 Rundle St, city; 0402 811 403; iberiaadelaide.com.au
LANTERN BY NU
Nu Suandokmai has returned to the honest, often exhilarating Thai cooking upon which his reputation was built in a restaurant and bar that taps into both the street style and spirituality of Thailand with great effect. A small prayer-room sits between two distinct spaces: one for dining, the other a bar where drinks can be accompanied by “street bites” such as the super snack “miang”. For bigger appetites a Penang-style lamb shank curry has the table gushing even before stripping a few shreds each from the bone.
10 Selby St, city; 7078 3559
SHOBOSHO
Roll up your sleeves, settle on a stool close to the action and watch as a battle-hardened team tames the fire-breathing monster of a kitchen at Shobosho. For his first foray into the Asian kitchen, Simon Kardachi (Press, Oggi) has brought home Adam Liston and created an ambitious eatery incorporating Japanese, Korean and other influences. Start with a cracker piled with prawn pieces, topped by a butterflied cutlet poached in dashi, a clear frontrunner for the year’s best snack.
17 Leigh St, city; 8366 2224; shobosho.com.au
SUMMERTOWN ARISTOLOGIST
It’s easy to be cynical about the mythology surrounding this part of the Hills and the back-to-basics, hands-on message it promotes. But lunch at an eatery that is guided by this ethos might have you cultivating a beard and finding your own patch up there. Co-owner and restaurant manager Aaron Fenwick (ex Orana) has jumped at the opportunity to work with natural wine pin-up boys Anton van Klopper and Jasper Button on what is, in part, a cellar door for them and their brethren. The kitchen is now in the hands of Oliver Edwards. Veg lovers will be in seventh heaven.
1097 Greenhill Rd, Summertown; 0477 410 105; summertownaristologist.com
BEST ITALIAN
ASSAGGIO
After undergoing significant management changes, the up-market Italian eatery has found a soothing, reassured rhythm that’s formal without being stuffy. Start with tiger prawns, pan-fried and served with couscous and a whiff of chilli, or ask for one of the
pasta and risotto dishes as a smaller portion.
A slow-braised beef cheek is a deserved favourite among the mains, the meat fork-tender sitting atop soft semolina.
92-94 King William Rd, Hyde Park; 8272 4748; hydepark.assaggio.com.au
ANDRE’S CUCINA
The surrounding streets may be deserted but walk into Andre’s Cucina on a weeknight and you can be sure the cosy dining space will be bursting at the seams. Former MasterChef contestant Andre Ursini has created one of Adelaide’s most popular Italian restaurants and it’s a credit to the consistently high-quality cuisine produced by his team. Gnocchi and pasta is made fresh daily, while creamy polenta is a mainstay of the menu.
94 Frome St, city; 8224 0004; andrescucina.com.au
CHIANTI
Chianti is arguably the closest thing to a sure bet you’ll find on the SA dining scene. Relaxed, calm setting? Tick. The best and freshest locally sourced produce? Tick. Slick, friendly service? Tick. Interesting, diverse wine list? Tick. Inventive yet refined cooking? Absolutely. It all adds up to a terrific dining experience that deserves its regular ranking among Adelaide’s best. Not surprisingly, pasta and risotto dishes are highlights, particularly the Risotto con Oca Affumicata – flavour-packed strands of tender goose breast draped across carnaroli rice that’s been cooked to the second. Roasted venison is elevated by truffled polenta cubes and a bitter chocolate sauce.
160 Hutt St, city; 8232 7955; chianti.net.au
ENZO’S RISTORANTE
Remember those restaurants where the waiters all wore formal black waistcoats, your linen napkin was folded neatly each time you left the table and each meal was delivered with complete care and precision? Enzo’s is still that restaurant, delivering old-school Italian style with a touch of modern flair from the kitchen. Spaghetti al sapore di mare is a fitting tribute to the sea, while housemade fettuccine delivers a flavour bomb when bathed in mixed mushrooms, sausage and black truffle paste.
46 Port Rd, Hindmarsh; 8346 2786; enzosristorante.com.au
OSTERIA OGGI
Osteria Oggi is worth a visit just to enjoy the clever dining space with its light-filled indoor “piazza” and long concrete bar that snared a world design award in early 2017. But Andrew Davies’ food doesn’t play second fiddle, delivering a slick, modern take on both Italian classics and his own creations. A polenta starter served with truffled mushroom ragout and a soft-poached egg has great texture and depth. Handmade pasta options range from a crowd-pleasing tagliatelle with blue swimmer crab, blackened garlic puree and chilli to pappardelle topped with seared chicken livers, soffritt and chicory.
76 Pirie St, city; 8359 2525; osteriaoggi.com.au
BEST ASIAN
CONCUBINE
Eating Asian in Gouger St can be fast and furious but the more refined approach of Concubine brings its own rewards. This is the place to come for top-grade local prawns rather than overseas impostors, for tablecloths instead of veneer, for quiet instead of clatter and for service that means more than scribbling an indecipherable order on a notepad. Concubine’s menu takes a western, entrees-and-mains approach and its dishes have contemporary twists. Salt and pepper squid comes tossed with slices of apple, salad greens, fresh chilli and coriander, for instance, while prawns are stir-fried with green beans, snow peas and house-made XO sauce.
132 Gouger St, city; 8212 8288; concubine.com.au
FERMENTASIAN
FermentAsian is cemented now as one of the highlight dining destinations in the Barossa, its exotic menu loved by locals and visitors, and its multi-awarded wine list curated expertly to respect the food it matches. The original building in the midst of the Tanunda township has now grown with the addition of a modern bar and function area, which also takes the regular overflow of weekend diners. Tuoi Do’s cooking, while still celebrating her Vietnamese roots, is increasingly mature. To start, betel leaves with ground Barossa pork are recommended as highly as classic Hanoi spring rolls. Oxtail dumplings in an aromatic ginger-laced consommé are sensational.
90 Murray St, Tanunda; 8563 0765; fermentasian.com.au
GOLDEN BOY
A perennially popular place with an infectious vibe. No surprise, then, that it can be tricky to get a table. Don’t be deterred. Walk-ins can usually be accommodated at the bar. The menu is traditional Thai with a stylish twist that elevates it above the run-of-the-mill. Sure, you can have green chicken curry and pad thai, and they do them well, but it pays to be more adventurous. Braised pork shoulder pancakes and son-in-law eggs are a good place to start. Grilled salmon with tom kha coconut soup is sublime or go for the southern fish curry – it’s very fishy, very spicy.
309 North Tce, city; 8227 0799; golden-boy.com.au
SINGAPORE HOUSE
Singapore in a food sense is a merry-go-round of mostly Chinese, Malay and Indian with all manner of street and hawker dishes, fusions and imports, often presented in a British Empire setting. Singapore House gets the feel right with its palmed entrance, muted lighting and display cabinets all setting an old-world mood. On a wide-ranging menu you’ll find noodles and dumplings, a nasi lemak, even Thai and Vietnamese, but mostly it’s a wider set of wet and dry curries, from butter chicken to roasted ocean trout in a red curry paste.
203 Glen Osmond Rd, Frewville; 8379 4405; singaporehouse.com.au
SUKHUMVIT SOI. 38
Thai restaurants are ubiquitous on the Australian dining scene, and it requires a certain finesse to stand out from the pack. Soi. 38 achieves this not just by the quality of its cuisine, with its focus on sustainable, locally sourced produce and house-made pastes and sauces but also with its carefully chosen wine list and its witty, vibrant decor. Standout dishes include (seasonal) stir-fried whitebait, yellow curry with crab (mild and fragrant, with meticulously picked blue swimmer crab meat) and slow-cooked five spice beef short ribs.
54 Pulteney St, city; 8223 5472; soi38.com.au
ALSO: Shobosho
BEST INDIAN/NEPALESE
BEYOND INDIA
A large showroom of a dining palace with windows looking on to O’Connell St, Beyond India delivers value for money, so it’s no surprise to see whole families settling in for a night of Indian treats and desserts. Entrees include a well-designed mixed dish that comes with a little salad. It provides an introduction to one of the kitchen’s specialties, a winning fish tikka. From the mains, a fish curry, where the treatment with mustards and spices brings the barramundi to a different level, stands out.
170 O’Connell St, North Adelaide; 8267 3850; beyondindia.net.au
CHEFS OF TANDOORI
(SECOND INNINGS)
The “Second Innings” in the name is a nod to a famous Indian victory over the Aussies but, if they’re after a good curry, even cricket fans should swallow their pride. The menu offers flavours and spice mixes from across the subcontinent, from a creamy Mughlai cashew gravy on the malai kofta balls to a red-hot Goan beef vindaloo. The seekh kebab from the tandoor have just a hint of warm spice and the tender butter chicken is a crowd-pleaser.
8/259-269 Unley Rd, Malvern; 8373 5055; chefsoftandoori.com
CINNAMON CLUB
The samosas at the Cinnamon Club are so convincing that the rest of the meal is coloured by that first impression of delicious flaking pastry and the freshly prepared ingredients inside. Our Best Indian winner for the past two years has recently expanded to a second outlet at Henley Beach. It is as though the chefs, who are Indian-born, Adelaide-trained, scrapped all the preconceptions from their homeland and rebuilt their dishes from the ground up. Their biryanis are great examples of this idea, allowing you to chase around the plate for a variety of flavours.
211A The Parade, Norwood; 8431 3311; cinnamonclub.net.au
JASMIN
Diners love Jasmin’s preparations of traditional Indian food – from tandoori lamb cutlets to butter chicken and fiery vindaloo – and the respect the kitchen pays to vegetable and pastry dishes. But Jasmin also explores the boundaries and this is no better expressed than a garfish special in which two grilled fish are served with nothing more than a spicy salsa. It is like a paean to South Australia.
31 Hindmarsh Square, city; 8223 7837; jasmin.com.au
KATHMANDU PALACE
Salt lamps and terracotta walls add warmth to this homely seaside diner. The food is just as comforting, from slow-cooked meats to a range of Nepalese curries, typically less intense than those from neighbouring India. You might start with steamed vegetarian dumplings, offering aromatic notes of ginger and garlic. Herby chicken fillets, dry roasted in the charcoal clay oven, are served on a bed of garlicky spinach and with a smoky lentil dahl. Mango ice cream with pistachios is a refreshing finish to the meal.
9 Nile St, Glenelg; 8294 8224; kathmandupalace.com.au
BEST COMMUNITY/SUBURBAN RESTAURANT
LOW AND SLOW
This rockin’ American-style barbecue joint run by three mates has been warmly embraced by the people of Port Adelaide. At a random early sitting, the room is full of children. Dad is feeding shredded pork and “tater tots” to a tiny tot. Surly teens and their parents are finding common ground in a plate of sliders. The rib-eaters are all wearing sticky smiles. It’s meat-induced magic. Or perhaps there’s something in the smoke.
17 Commercial Rd, Port Adelaide; 0402 589 722; lowandslowamericanbbq.com
NEW LOCAL EATERY
Keep it simple, keep it seasonal, keep it real. If only more followed the rules that seem to govern the kitchen at New Local Eatery, a humble little eatery that every neighbourhood would treasure. Owner/chef Daniel Blencowe’s global outlook and attention to detail is obvious from the start – snapper croquettes in a Southern Indian style with a snappy lime pickle, and a plate of baked eggplant with feta and salty zaatar crisps. Slow-baked lamb shoulder does what you want it to do, falling apart at the touch of the fork.
120 Port Rd, Hindmarsh; 8340 4915; newlocaleatery.com.au
PARWANA
It’s an Afghan secret, the waiter says, advising we tear into pita that is hidden under a pile of grilled meat and is now soaked in all the juices. Mark that down as yet another reason to visit the magical kingdom of Parwana – along with Adelaide’s most talked-about eggplant, the rice pilaw that is good enough to be a meal in itself and sublime “mantu” dumplings filled with braised leek. The success of the Ayubi family, who escaped war-torn Afghanistan and built new lives for themselves here, only adds to the feel-good spirit of the place.
124b Henley Beach Rd, Torrensville; 8443 9001; parwana.com.au
SEED WINEHOUSE + KITCHEN
At the northern end of Clare’s main street is one of regional Australia’s buzziest eat/drink/cocktail/ bar and restaurant mashups, a place that has become THE gathering point for the local food and wine fraternity as well as the wider community. A bar menu offers a choice of salumi, burgers, even black linguine with blue swimmer crab, while deeper into the restaurant space, you can sit down to a progressive menu with great earthy senses.
308 Main North Rd, Clare; 8842 2323; seed.kitchen
TOPIARY
Garden centre cafes are supposed to serve scones and tea. Topiary restaurant and its enterprising owner/chef Kane Pollard do all that and much more. While it mightn’t quite have shaken off the look of the tearoom it once was, this little surprise packet is putting many more highfalutin eateries to shame. For a start, when Pollard says he and his crew are making everything from scratch, he means it. And the thought and effort that goes into each dish is beyond reproach.
1361 North East Rd, Tea Tree Gully; 8263 0818; thetopiarycafe.com.au
BEST REGIONAL RESTAURANT (WINERY)
CORIOLE
The oh-so-pretty garden beds that surround Coriole’s cellar door are mirrored in the table displays of flowers that bring the outside in and the delicate, thoughtful plates of chef Tom Reid also reflect this natural wonder. Graze through starters such as squid-blackened puffs of tapioca carrying fresh squid, with a ruby umami sauce. A single snapper-wing ravioli, again squid black, comes with the silkiest pumpkin cream. In a theatrical finish, a stream of hot choc sauce makes a choc “bombe” cave into gels, freeze-dried fruits, berries and honeycomb.
Chaffeys Rd, McLaren Vale; 8323 8305; coriole.com
D’ARRY’S VERANDAH
One of the institutions of the McLaren Vale wine district, d’Arry’s Verandah has a reputation 20 years in the making, offering an unbeatable view of the Vale and excellent food. The signature lobster entree, with pieces of seafood in the shell, over a large ravioli, is something extraordinary. Tommy ruff comes with prosciutto, beef fillet with Spanish sausage, and a dessert of sazatof cake with Absinthe. The problem of a cellar door wine list has been solved by adding a generous range of distinguished imports.
d’Arenberg, Osborn Rd, McLaren Vale; 8329 4848; darenberg.com.au
ELLEN STREET
A roaring fire and cosy cellar door is an enticing part of this elegant dining experience. A step away, the partially open kitchen might catch some attention, but rolling vineyard country views will rival chef Fabian Lehmann’s flourishes of wine-friendly food. The carpaccio is a mod square-edged presentation of venison so delicate it lends a mere meaty hint to forks loaded with crisp apple cubes, tarragon and roasted macadamia dust. Below crispy skin, Murray cod is a delicate freshwater surprise on lush Jerusalem artichoke with crunchy kale and a restrained dash of broth.
Maxwell Wines, 119 Chalk Hill Rd, McLaren Vale; 8323 8200; maxwellwines.com.au
FINO AT SEPPELTSFIELD
We loved them in Willunga. Now, their superb Seppeltsfield location and the much larger audience the Barossa attracts have given Sharon Romeo and David Swain the scope to deliver an even better version of their signature style of dining. Take the bluefin tuna with sprouted, raw lentils, lightly pickled onion and chilli oil. Or slow-cooked beef brisket in a rich broth with a hint of warm spice and anchovy all crowned by cooked and raw brussels sprouts. And luscious desserts like the vegan yoghurt and miso ice cream with chickpea meringue cry out for a fortified from the outstanding wine list.
730 Seppeltsfield Rd, Seppeltsfield; 8562 8528; fino.net.au
THE LANE
A place to take your visitors who will ooh and aah at the rolling vineyards and lush fields long before reaching your lunchtime destination. Choose a two or three-course format, or chef James Brinklow’s “feed-me” menu that will be a wider encounter with his smart cooking style. Begin with a delicate, yet earthy rendition of “scotch egg”, with black pudding enveloping a runny quail egg. Hereford short ribs pressed into a brick of torn meat come with a tantalising combo of miso, cucumbers and coriander. Desserts almost pale, but preserved figs make a layer-upon-layer Russian honey cake sing.
Ravenswood Lane, Hahndorf; 8388 1250; thelane.com.au
ALSO: Hentley Farm, St Hugo
BEST REGIONAL RESTAURANT (INDEPENDENT)
APPELLATION
Appellation delivers a true five-star experience befitting the luxurious, award-winning accommodation in which it is housed. Chef Ryan Edwards has a clear focus on the premium produce that, paired with his technical skills and creativity, is a recipe for an evening to rival the best in the city. Tiny cubes of raw veal fillet paired with native currants and a horseradish cream offer a wonderful first insight into the kitchen’s quality. Berkshire pork belly is another star, the twice-cooked flesh tender with a crackle that would do the very best Chinese BBQ restaurant proud.
The Louise, 375 Seppeltsfield Rd, Marananga; 8562 4144; thelouise.com.au/appellation
GATHER FOOD AND WINE
The summer holiday hotspot of Robe has another attraction to draw a discerning crowd – at any time of the year. Owners Tom and Sarah Tilbury have done so many things right in creating Gather, an unassuming yet sophisticated restaurant at the end of the main street. Tom works with a small network of local growers, while also foraging from the dunes and bush of family properties. Plump Coorong cockles with a cider butter and saltbush are as invigorating as the morning breeze off Guichen Bay. Aylesbury duck, raised by an obsessive farmer at Meningie, is presented as roasted breast and masterstock braised leg with poached quandongs.
38 Smillie St, Robe; 8768 2734; gatherfoodandwine.com.au
PIPERS OF PENOLA
It’s the flowers that will strike you first: the lilies in the entrance, a spray of natives in the corner, bundles of rosemary on the way to the toilet. The care taken with these arrangements, sourced from a home garden and local grower, are indicative of the approach of owners Simon and Erika Bowen. The couple have established Pipers as a must-visit dining destination for travellers who likely have also toured the wineries of Coonawarra a short drive away, as well as appealing to the locals with cooking that may surprise or delight, but rarely shocks.
58 Riddoch St, Penola; 8737 3999; pipersofpenola.com.au
SALOPIAN INN
The Salopian Inn is a regional restaurant with great soul and character. Since 2012, it has been in the capable hands of chef-owner Karena Armstrong who is backed by a well-oiled kitchen and front of house team. Karena’s modern Australian menu is interwoven with Asian influences such as a smoked pork and coconut pancake with a ginger-shallot dressing. A cassoulet of Muscovy duck, blood sausage, pork and cannellini beans is exceptional.
Corner of Main and McMurtrie roads, McLaren Vale; 8323 8769; salopian.com.au
VINTNERS
On a chilly day in the Barossa there can be few better places to settle than at a damask covered table before the open fire at Vintners. Chef Peter Clarke and co-owner Rami Heer at front of house are spot on with quality of the fare, presentation and service. Bluefin tuna served as a salad with jellyfish makes a perfect start. From the larger plates, steamed chicken served in a broth with leg-meat dumplings has subtle Asian flavours, while a crisp-skinned, falling-off-the bone roast duck Maryland with polenta and quince is rich and satisfying.
Cnr Stockwell and Angaston Rds, Angaston; 8564 2488; vintners.com.au
Also: FermentAsian, Seed Winehouse + Kitchen, Summertown Aristologist
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