‘I put everything on the line’: Meet the SA businesses risking it all to open despite the ongoing hospo crisis

From a barbershop cafe to a cozy wine bar, new SA businesses reveal why they’re risking it all to pursue a dream amid the state’s hospo crisis.

With the cost-of-living crisis continuing to rip through SA’s hospitality industry, business owners across the state are putting it all on the line to open the venues of their dreams.

From a barbershop cafe in the southern suburbs to a slice of Italy in the CBD, business owners reveal why they’re determined to push through despite the odds.

Matthew Hill, 42, opened the doors to the Lowrider Cafe for the first time last week after investing all his savings into the venture a month ago.

With only $200 to his name on opening day, Mr Hill said it was “scary” but worth it.

The business is making around $1800 and over 200 people turned up for the big day.

“I put everything on the line, the whole cafe thing was a risk,” he said.

“Especially when you’re seeing so many others closing at the same time you’re trying to open one, but it’s been pretty good.”

Mr Hill said opening the new shop, which is also home to the Lowrider Barbershop, was also the start of a new chapter as a family business with partner Nicolle Henderson, 32.

The pair, who have five children between them hope the business will one day make enough to buy them a family home.

Lowrider Cafe owner Matthew Hill put it all on the line to open his new cafe. Picture: Tom Huntley

In the heart of the CBD, Paper Tiger’s Ben Liew and Karl Tang opened their cozy wine bar Makan on Flinders Street last month.

The bar showcases a small but ever changing wine list including familiar SA favourites and rare to find labels from across the world.

It was venue manager Lucy Ryan’s first time opening a venue which was “nerve-racking”, but went off without a hitch.

“It definitely was daunting, but it’s been a really smooth experience so far,” she said.

“Its quite a struggle seeing all these really well established businesses struggle to find customers and having a new footing in the game, it’s hard to know where to fit in.

“We all work together as much as we can and it’s been really lovely having a supportive team.”

The bar has been making “small adjustments” as they go and operates with a “people over profits” mindset which Ms Ryan believes has been key to their success.

“Its not profit first and customers come in and have to leave because a table is booked,” she said.

“It’s more relaxed, making sure everyone is having a good time above everything else.

“Already we have people coming back, so they were here with their families and have brought their friends and that’s absolutely incredible. That's the best kind of feedback we can get.”

Venue manager Lucy Ryan from Makan. Picture: Matt Loxton

Over on Hutt Street, a new aperitivo bar and cocktail lounge Latteria is bringing a slice of Italy to the CBD.

Latteria is the latest venture by Nicola Pau and Luca Baioni, the brains behind Osteria Oggi, and has been going strong since its launch in mid April.

“It’s been pretty incredible, I’m very happy with the response we’ve had so far,” Mr Pau said.

“We’ve seen a lot of locals on Hutt Street and now we’ve started to see more people venturing from other parts of the city which has been fantastic.”

Co-owners, Nicola Pau and Luca Baioni at Latteria in Adelaide. Picture: Matt Loxton

Inspired by latterias back home in Italy, Mr Pau said he hoped Latteria would be a place for the community to come together for years to come.

“We have this culture of finishing work and going straight to a bar to have a drink and a nibble before going to dinner and wanted to bring that vibe to Adelaide.

“We love the industry, we’re not in it to become super rich, we’re passionate about giving a certain type of experience to our guests and that's why we’re here.”

Mr Pau wants to see Adelaide’s foodie scene become even better than Melbourne’s and hopes that Latteria will one day become an institution on Hutt Street.

“Sometimes it goes well, sometimes it doesn’t, but hopefully we’re gonna be able to stay here for the next few years and become an institution - that would be fantastic.”