How SA’s chocolate-fed wagyu cows are fuelling a premium steak revolution

Our insatiable love of a premium steak when dining out is not only helping the state’s battered hospitality industry – but fuelling an economic boom for regional producers.

South Australia’s insatiable love of a premium steak when dining out is not only helping the state’s battered hospitality industry but also fuelling an economic boom for regional producers.

Industry forecasts paint a rosy “positive” picture for the premium beef market, especially across SA, which is home to some of Australia’s best beef producers.

Figures show national cattle production increased 2.3 per cent to 475,628 tonnes in the September quarter last year, boosted by Australians who are among the world’s biggest beef consumers.

One of the state’s premium beef farmers, Scott de Bruin, 45, said demand for his Mayura Station’s product was growing, fuelled by his unique confectionery-led breeding.

His station, first established in 1845, breeds more than 12,000 high-value Wagyu cattle, 9km southwest of Millicent, in the South-East, where it also hosts its own luxury restaurant.

Scott de Bruin, 43 with Josh Bell, 30 at Mayura Station. Picture: Ben Clark

Industry leaders say its brand recognition is akin to Penfolds Grange. The “full-blood” Wagyu beef is produced from cattle being fed on a locally grown hay and grain blend, which is also mixed with lollies and chocolate.

The multimillion-dollar business last year exported 45 per cent of its beef to China, Hong Kong, Dubai, Saudi Arabia, Taiwan, Malaysia, Thailand and Singapore.

The station, which is currently the country’s “grand champion” wagyu brand, has 32 different cuts of meat that retail from $5 for a burger pattie to more than $1000kg for a luxury sirloin steak.

Mayura Station Kitchen head chef Mark Wright. Picture: Ben Clark

Sold at high-end venues such as SkyCity, Arkhe and Penfolds Magill Estate in Adelaide, 6HEAD in Sydney and Nobu at Melbourne’s Crown Casino, a 300g steak can fetch as much as $350.

“The sweets give the meat its unique flavour,” said station managing director Mr de Bruin, a father-of-two, of St Georges, as he walked through one of the station’s massive feeding sheds.

“It’s robust flavour and very rich.

“During Covid, believe it or not, demand for our product went through the roof and has stayed strong. Consumption per capita actually rose. People couldn’t travel or go out to restaurants, they had more savings, so they decided to try something new and – for many of them – they loved it.

“Previously, we were selling more meat overseas and were export focused. But with Covid, domestic demand has grown and so that has become a main focus.”

It’s not just Mayura Station reaping the benefits of a consumption boom.

The state’s biggest entertainment, hospitality and events precinct SkyCity is also serving up vast volumes of South Australian-produced milk, chicken, oysters, juice, wine and bread.

Despite the rising cost of living and interest rates going up, Australians spend a considerable amount of income on eating out. Latest data shows an 8.6 per cent increase in such spending despite rising interest rates.

SkyCity Adelaide Director of Kitchens, Paul Barton with a Mayura Station Tomohawk steak at Sean’s Kitchen Picture: Matt Loxton

SkyCity’s kitchens director, Paul Barton, said it was proud to work with local producers and suppliers.

“Mayura’s Limestone Coast location is widely regarded as some of the most pristine farming country in Australia,” he said. “We find Mayura’s Wagyu beef has similar brand recognition to Penfolds Grange.

“(It) delivers the ultimate quality expected by our customers at venues such as Sean’s Kitchen and in our dedicated Conference and Events level.” Last year SkyCity bought 10 tonnes of local beef – more than half from Mayura Station.

Its chief operating officer, David Christian, said it had a strategy of prioritising the procurement of goods and services from local suppliers.

Livestock SA president Joe Keynes, a Mt Lofty Ranges-based beef producer, said continued rainfall and favourable seasonal conditions last year will ensure a “solid supply” of cattle in the next two years.

This is regardless of other seasonal factors such as drought or floods, he said.

“With the increasing demand for high-quality beef, producers are investing in new technologies and techniques,” he said. “(This will) ensure their products are of the highest quality and ensuring they are building a future that is sustainable.”

The beef industry has custody of more than half of Australia’s land mass, data shows. Elders wagyu livestock and genetics consultant, James Matts, said he expected demand to remain strong over the coming year.

“Wagyu auctions as far as livestock is concerned, they’re still experiencing a very strong year and I expect that demand will continue,” said Mr Matts, a decade-long wagyu expert.

“Wagyu is the luxury beef – it is the go to product for any beef producer to aspire to.

“It’s the next level because it’s an eating experience. It’s an upgrade from other beef.”