South Australia sells itself as a wine travel hot spot but our tourism and health campaigns clearly clash | Jess Adamson

There is clearly a case of mixed messaging hitting the public transport in Adelaide, writes Jess Adamson.

An Adelaide tram warns us to steer clear of South Australia's biggest draw card. Picture: Jess Adamson

A visitor in South Australia right now would have every right to feel confused.

Imagine they’ve been drawn here from interstate or overseas by Tourism’s SA’s stunning Simple Pleasures campaign.

The campaign speaks to those who want to slow down and appreciate as Oscar Wilde reminded us, that “simple pleasures are the last healthy refuge in a complex world.”

The rich imagery tugs at the heart strings. Our sun-soaked beaches and surf, a seemingly endless table set for a long lunch, exquisite local seafood and cheese, and majestic gum trees on rolling plains.

And wine.

One iteration of the campaign, Harvest Eyes, is a joyous scene at a local vintage where red wine grapes bursting with flavour are thrown into wicker baskets, playfully loaded onto the back of a ute, cellared and eventually, when a cork is popped, poured.

And that’s where the confusion comes in.

Right now, our trams are splashed with an enormous image of a glass of red wine tipping and spilling, alongside the words “Alcohol causes cancer in 7 sites of the body.”

It certainly kills the mood.

The ads are part of a national “Spread” campaign run by Australia’s Cancer Councils.

Cancer Council SA’s senior management of prevention Christine Morris says when it comes to cancer risk, there’s no safe level of drinking.

“The more you drink, the greater your risk,” Christine says.

“And it doesn’t matter what type of alcohol you drink – whether it’s beer, wine or spirits – the risk is the same.

“As a public health organisation, it is our responsibility to share evidence-based information about the known causes of cancer with the South Australian community so they can make informed decisions about their own health and wellbeing.”

I’ve read enough about alcohol to know, that like many things humans consume, it’s a carcinogen, particularly for binge or heavy drinkers.

But up until now, wine has been accepted in moderation, something to be enjoyed slowly with food and good company.

So why was a glass of red chosen as the villain in this health campaign? What about beer, spirits and pre-mixes?

It’s because it looks like blood, and that packs a punch. This campaign has dramatically moved the dial, and I fear for what’s next.

How long will it be until the label of a crisp Clare Valley riesling with hints of white florals is bearing a “Wine Causes Throat Cancer” warning along with a photo of a bleeding larynx?

I’d rather not greet my dinner guests with a bottle of “Bryan died of Liver Cancer” Cab Sav but that probably won’t be far away with a global movement towards mandatory warnings.

Alcohol is a cancer risk, and it must be taken seriously.

The Cancer Council says around 5,800 cases are diagnosed every year in Australia due to alcohol use.

But in a state where our wine industry, a key tourism driver, brings in an estimated $1.8 billion annually, our messaging is all mixed up and we need to get the balance right.

We welcomed 150,000 tourists to town on the weekend for the British and Irish Lions rugby match at Adelaide Oval. Many of them watched the Simple Pleasures campaign on the big screens, including the version that ends with a bunch of good-looking people drinking red wine.

It seemed at odds with the “Every drink you don’t have reduces your risk” messaging on the free tram service they arrived on.

The health messaging is in stark contrast to the Government’s recent investment in the wine industry, including the SA Wine Recovery Program, along with its tourism strategies.

McLaren Vale winemaker Fabiano Minchella. Picture: Supplied

McLaren Vale winemaker Fabiano Minchella says when a health message collides with a state’s lifeblood, questions must be asked.

“We must ask ourselves: How can we reconcile the industry’s cultural significance with growing health risks,” he says.

“And while we’re at it, shouldn’t we also be looking honestly at the role of sugar, obesity, diabetes, lifestyle, and diet in this complex picture, instead of placing all the blame of a wine glass?

“We’re also ignoring the growing body of research that shows moderate red wine, within a healthy lifestyle, may carry health benefits – and that context, and consumption patterns, matter just as much as the alcohol itself.

“This delicate balance – honouring a rich wine heritage while addressing health impacts honestly – is a conversation we need to have.”

Almost a decade ago, Adelaide became a proud member of the Great Wine Capitals global network of 10 major cities with internationally renowned wine regions – we’re up there with Bordeaux in France, Lausanne in Switzerland, Mendoza in Argentina and Verona in Italy.

And yet our state-owned transport infrastructure is telling us we shouldn’t touch the stuff.

The South Australian Wine Industry Association is rightly concerned, arguing the association of red wine with cancer, without any context or balance, undermines the industry’s position

of promoting responsible and moderate consumption by adults.

It’s understood they’ve made a representation to the Premier, pleading for clarity, approval processes for advertising on government infrastructure and meaningful engagement on future campaigns.

For now, though, it’s on with the show.

From next month until October, we’re all invited to Fleurieu Unearthed, a government sponsored “celebration of food, wine, story and place” supporting small operators in the region to drive off-peak regional visitation.

It’s probably for the best our trams don’t make it that far.