Rolling through wine country on the Clare Valley’s Riesling Trail
THE Clare Valley has it all — wonderful wine, a rich history and beautiful natural setting. Maybe too much to take in through a car window. So Lynn Cameron set out to explore it on a bike — following the aptly named Riesling Trail.
THE Clare Valley is one of South Australia’s most iconic regions. Its fertile soils produce some of the world’s best wines, its buildings are steeped in history and its hills and vales create an idyllic setting in which to relax.
One of the best ways to experience the region is by walking or cycling the Riesling Trail, a 35km track that runs from Auburn to Barinia. On a brisk winter’s morning, I donned a helmet, jumped on a bike and set out to do just that.
AUBURN
This pretty little town is regarded as the historic gateway to the Clare Valley. Just a two-hour car journey from Adelaide, Auburn was established in 1849. It was the birthplace of Australian poet C.J. Dennis (1876-1938) and is currently home to just under 600 residents.
The official start of the Riesling Trail is a 500m cycle from the Rising Sun Hotel along Auburn’s main road, Horrocks Highway. The trail, a packed gravel surface, runs parallel to the highway for about 3km before veering left to wind its way through farms, vineyards and natural scrub.
Surrounded by sheep in the paddocks, roosters in the yards and workers in the fields, the pressures of city life fall away as the restorative powers of the countryside work their magic.
O’LEARY WALKER WINES
About 6km from Auburn lies O’Leary Walker Wines, set high atop a hill with stunning panoramic views of the Watervale region. Its cellar door conservatory is a welcoming sight after the trail’s gentle but steady climb. I had certainly worked up a thirst.
Wine is off the menu for me however — and not just because it was only 9am. The same rules apply to cyclists on the trail as on any other road in terms of alcohol consumption, so it is a cup of tea for me while administration manager Deb Cornish talked about the winery and its history.
“Established in 2000 by winemakers David O’Leary and Nick Walker, O’Leary Walker Wines now employs 15 staff and is famous for its Watervale and Polish Hill River rieslings, but its cabernets and shiraz vintages are also held in high esteem,” Cornish said.
“Between the scenery, wines and share platters, it’s a popular stop on the trail for tourists and locals alike.”
As if to prove her point, just as I was getting ready to resume my ride, three local women arrived at the winery on bikes. Jane Olsen from Penwortham, Lisa Ziersch from Auburn and Susan Cunningham from Watervale are all regular riders of the Riesling Trail, and value its importance to the local economy.
“The Trail attracts 51,000 users per year, half of which are visitors to the region, and contributes approximately $5 million in spend to the regional economy,” said Ms Cunningham, a Riesling Trail committee member, adding that the number of visitors is expected to grow by approximately 4 per cent per annum.
WATERVALE
A more gentle ride along the next 3km of the trail takes me into Watervale, a tiny village with a population of less than 250 that embodies real country charm.
Lou and Neil Haines, owners of the Watervale General Store, have lived in the Clare Valley for more than 20 years and purchased the store three months ago.
“We saw huge potential right in the middle of the Valley,” Ms Haines said. “I’m attracted to old buildings and the history of it all. It’s been a general store since 1851 but we want to bring it back to a more traditional style.”
As well as the usual general store fare, the Haines have added a cafe that serves home baking and delicacies, plus a vintage section.
“I think tourists are looking for the country charm,” said Ms Haines, “so that’s what we’re trying to create here. There are amazing wineries around us but we’re offering a different experience.”
SKILLAGOLEE WINERY
The next leg of the trail stretches for 6.5km, climbing to an elevation of 490m at its highest point at Penwortham, followed by a short downhill cycle to Skillogalee.
One of the Valley’s most prestigious wineries and restaurants, Skillogalee was built in 1851 by Cornish miner John Trestrow, one of the first explorers in the region. Today’s establishment is run by Diana and Dave Palmer and their daughter, Nicola.
“When my parents bought the property in 1989, it was pretty run down,” said Nicola. “My mother changed it into a restaurant so this was the first winery restaurant in the Clare Valley.
“We work with local produce wherever possible but our emphasis is on quality over locality: we start local and then move outwards. We live in a region that has beautiful produce so we try to utilise as much of that as possible.”
Like so many of the region’s wineries, Skillogalee is famous for its rieslings.
“We’re very well known for dry riesling,” Nicola said. “The valley actually grows incredible reds and a lot of other incredible varieties really well, such as cabernets and shiraz. We’re really lucky here in our climate and interesting soil structures.”
SEVENHILL CELLARS
Rejoining the trail after Skillogalee involves a challenging hill climb, but then it is a relatively relaxed 3km cycle downhill to Sevenhill.
The oldest winery in the Clare Valley, Sevenhill was established in 1851 by a group of Jesuits escaping from persecution in Silesia, Poland. Arriving in South Australia, they established a community at Sevenhill, named after the Seven Hills of Rome.
“They came with enough sacramental wine to last them a couple of years,” said Tony Worthington, sales manager at Sevenhill.
“From the beginning, sacramental wine is something they really wanted to be able to provide to anybody. It’s something still that we have today.
“We’re a not-for-profit organisation, whereby about 40 per cent of what we do is still sacramental wine. (With) the table wine, all the profits basically go back into the business to be able to provide the sacramental wine at an affordable price; so it’s this lovely little cycle.”
In addition to visitors to its cellar door, Sevenhill remains a centre of spirituality. The on-site college houses 20 people on retreats, with a second property providing accommodation for another 20.
“People come here for different reasons,” said Worthington. “Some come for the history, some for the religious aspect, some for the wine. We are very lucky.”
CLARE — BARINIA
A gentle 6km cycle later, I arrived in Clare. Home to more than 3000 people, Clare offers a good variety of accommodation, dining and entertainment options.
With the last section of the trail, from Clare to Barinia, involving an 8km stretch with a steady incline, many visitors opt to end their journey in Clare.
I chose to cycle on to Barinia but, at the end of a long day in the saddle and with aching muscles, my suggestion would be to stop at Clare, lock up the bike and enjoy a well-deserved glass of riesling.
PAULETT WINES
Once your ride is complete, Paulett Wines, with its breathtaking views over the Polish Hill River, is worth a visit by car.
The business is family owned and operated by Neil and Alison Paulett, their son Matthew and his wife Ali.
“We’ve been here since 1983,” said Ali. “It’s a good old family business.”
In addition to its internationally recognised wines, two years ago the winery added the Bush Devine Cafe, offering Australian indigenous foods.
“Especially since we’ve opened the cafe, we’ve noticed a lot more locals coming in,” said Ali. “Locals have always been great supporters of us and we greatly appreciate it. We live and breathe in this town. We love Clare and it’s a fantastic spot.”
Thanks to Tour de Vines for all their help.
FIVE THINGS ABOUT THE RIESLING TRAIL
1. Take your time.
Although only 35km from start to finish, there is so much to see and do that you don’t want to rush it. Take two, three or even more days to immerse yourself fully in the beauty of the region.
2. Fitness counts.
The Trail is not the most challenging bike ride but there are some steep hills and a number of continual inclines that will make your muscles burn.
3. Stay safe.
While much of the trail is cut through wineries and scrub, there are parts at which you have to cross main roads. These are clearly signed but stay alert.
4. No overindulgence.
Just as for car drivers, drink-cycling is illegal along the trail. The same alcohol laws that apply for drivers apply for cyclists, too.
5. Venture off the track.
There are many more Clare Valley highlights to check out away from the trail, so before or after your ride, hire a car and make sure you explore the best of the region.
BORROW A BIKE
Clare Valley Cycle Hire
0418 802 077. clarevalleycyclehire.com.au
Cogwebs Bicycle Hire and Hub Cafe
30 Main North Rd, Auburn, 0400 290 687,
facebook.com/CogwebsBicycleHireandHubCafe
FITNESS LEVELS
Easy to moderate, depending on whether you decide to walk or cycle the Trail and the time in which you aim to complete it.
It’s possible to ride it at a moderate pace in one day but this will mean missing out on all the attractions along the way, not to mention the sore legs at the end.
Travelling from Auburn to Barinia, a lot of the Trail is on a steady incline, which can be something of a challenge in parts.
Taking 2 to 3 days to cycle or 3 to 5 days to walk it will allow more time to enjoy the environment without exhausting yourself along the way.
TRY THESE WHILE YOU’RE THERE
WHERE TO STAY
The Rising Sun
(08) 8849 2015
Established in the 1800s, the Rising Sun Hotel is perfectly positioned at the end of the Riesling Trail. The hotel offers 10 rooms and one of the best bistros in the region. Prices start at $90 a night up to $160.
Thorn Park By the Vines
(08) 8843 4304
Located on the edge of Sevenhill in the Clare Valley. Packages range from $335 a night for bed and breakfast for one, to $850 for a two-night package including meals for one. Double/twin shares start from $425 bed and breakfast.
Neagles Retreat
0418 842 663
Neagles Retreat villas are set on a 30ha property offering some of the best views in the Clare Valley. Prices start from $240 per villa per night.
The Mill Apartments
(08) 8842 1111
Located on the main street of Clare and just minutes from restaurants, cafes and local shops, The Mill Apartments are an excellent way to explore the Clare Valley. Prices start at $290 a night for a one-bedroom apartment, and $390 for a two-bedroom apartment.
Skillogalee
(08) 8843 4311
Set among the wooded hills and vineyards, close to Spring Gully Conservation Park, Skillogalee offers a range of accommodation with full country breakfasts included. Prices start at $250 a night for two in Wren Cottage, up to $390 a night for two in Skillogalee House.
FINE DINING
Seed Winehouse + Kitchen
(08) 8842 2323
The menu at this award-winning restaurant and bar focuses on unpretentious food that showcases the best of the season. Open Tuesday to Saturday, 5pm-late, Sunday lunch and dinner on long weekends.
Mr Mick’s Cellar Door and Kitchen
(08) 8842 2555
An award-winning cellar door venue that offers tapas-style dining. Open daily 11am-4pm, Fridays 11am-9pm.
O’Leary Walker
(08) 8843 0022
A full range of wines is on offer for tasting, as well as a selection of regional platters, coffee and cakes. Open Monday-Saturday, 10am-4pm, Sunday and public holidays 11am-4pm.
Pikes Cellar Door
(08) 8843 4370
Gourmet grazing plates, wines and a selection of their own beers are all available. Open 10am-4pm daily.
DO IT IN STYLE
Tour de Vines
1300 665 330
Tackle the Tour de Vines’ three-day self-guided tour through the Clare Valley on the Riesling Trail. It incorporates bike hire, food, accommodation and luggage transport. Highlights include gourmet lunches at Skillogalee and O’Leary Walker, and cellar-door tastings, with stays at the Rising Sun Hotel in Auburn and in Clare. The trail is rated as easy or beginner but the company offers ebikes with pedal assist technology. Prices: $479 to $599 a person.
GETTING THERE
Qantas and Virgin Australia offer regular scheduled flights from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane to Adelaide.
Clare, one of the main towns in the Clare Valley, is about 140km from Adelaide, along the National Highway and Horrocks Highway.
AVIS, Europcar and Hertz are just some of the car rental agencies positioned at Adelaide Airport or you can book online at adelaideairport.com.au prior to arrival.
Yorke Peninsula Coach runs a bus service to Auburn, Watervale, Sevenhills and Clare every Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 4pm, and Sunday at 5pm, departing from Adelaide Central Bus Station. The journey takes from a little over two hours to Auburn to 2 hours 45 minutes to Clare, and costs $35-$45 per passenger.
For more information, log on to ypcoaches.com.au