Kings Beach Retreats Waitpinga review | SA’s Great Travel Planner

A delightful private cabin nestled above Kings Beach, with panoramic views of the coast and the cliffs, must offer one of the best coastal views in the state.

I first saw the Waitpinga cliffs from a boat: spectacular, grey-black rock climbing 100m straight out of the Southern Ocean. A home fit for the rare white-bellied sea eagle, and a stunning playground for the few brave climbers I watched make their way slowly down the rock face on a spider web of ropes.

But today there’s a different view. I’m on the top, having climbed slowly from Kings Beach along the Heysen Trail, winding through pasture land then a native scrub of blooming gums and shrubs ­— all the while mindful that a few steps off the path is a very quick end to the day’s enjoyment.

The view is spectacular. Glance down, and there’s a sudden drop to the crashing white waves gnawing away the land below. Ahead, the path disappears from view as it follows the edge for another 8km or so, before turning inland towards the campgrounds above Waitpinga beach.

And behind is where we’ve come from, a delightful private cabin nestled above Kings Beach with panoramic views of the coast and the cliffs. It’s a spot so well-chosen it must be one of the best coastal views in the state.

Inside Kings Beach Retreat at Waitpinga.

And the accommodation takes full advantage of this vista.

Kings Beach Retreats has two low cabins, and a large modern house made of rammed earth and featuring recycled planks and iron from an old jetty, perched above the waves on a small headland between The Bluff at Encounter Bay and Waitpinga.

Designed and part-owned by architect Ian Hannaford, the low-slung design means they don’t stick out like sore thumbs on this wild bit of coast.

From the main house, you look out over West Island, from where stone for state Parliament House was hewn, The Bluff to the northeast and Waitpinga cliffs to the southwest. The two cabins face the ocean and the cliffs.

If you’re lucky you will spot dolphins and seals, or whales in winter, but the only sign of life in the surf on the day we arrive is from three bodyboard surfers who sweep in fast towards the beach, dangerously close to jutting rocks, only to pull out at the last moment.

A glorious sunset, captured from Kings Beach Retreats.

Our Sea cabin nestles into a little bunker, a bluestone wall ensuring privacy at the rear. It’s a getaway just for two, but with a touch of luxury. You enter through a gate in the bluestone wall, down steps into a small native garden that leads to a glassed-in outside dining area besides the cabin. Inside, there’s a view to the water from just about everywhere — even the very swish double shower.

The main room is a combination bedroom and lounge — and a mini-art gallery with works for sale from Ian’s brother Robert Hannaford and his wife Alison Mitchell gracing the walls. There’s a very large and comfy leather couch from which to watch television, listen to music, or sip some coffee or wine as you stare through the big windows at the changing moods of sea and sky. At the other end of the room is a big bed with its own views: one morning we lay there and watched the cliffs turn red ochre by the first light of dawn.

At the rear, there’s a galley with a full kitchen, and it’s advisable to bring at least some of your own food. Of course, you could walk the trail past Petrel Cove to The Bluff, and on to Whaler’s Inn for breakfast or lunch — then you can walk it off on the return trip.

And for dinner? Well, you’re already in the best spot … so drop some steak or snags on the small Weber and pour a glass of red, settle back, and watch and listen as the waves roll in. ●

Reviews are unannounced and paid for by SAWeekend

This review was first published in July 2018 and had details updated in March 2021.

• Lot 60 Dump Rd, Waitpinga
• 0401 693 552, 0407 183 905
• Kingsbeachretreats.com.au
• LOCATION Waitpinga 96km south of Adelaide.
• ACCOMMODATION Sea sleeps two, Sand sleeps up to five. Headland House sleeps up to 14.
• FACILITIES FOR SEA TV/DVD, stereo, reverse- cycle airconditioning, barbecue (small Weber Q), dishwasher, washing machine, large fridge, oven, cook top, microwave, sandwich toaster. Sand has the same facilities as Sea but no washing machine. Headland House has all the same facilities as Sea except no air coditioning. Also Headland House has two ovens and a family size Weber Q.
• PRICE Sea, min two-night stay, $320 per night. Sand, min two-night stay, $320 per night for two people, additional guests $55 per person per night. Headland House, min three-night stay, $1100 per night for up to 10 people, additional guests $55 per person per night.