The ultimate guide to Hong Kong in 2023, according to expert travellers
Hong Kong is reopened, recharged and revitalised - we've got the expert tips on where to go from those in the know.
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Gliding across Victoria Harbour under the red sails of a traditional Chinese junk boat, I’m falling in love with Hong Kong all over again. It started from the moment I first glimpsed the skyscrapers rising up between lush green islands from my plane window. A “there she is!” feeling that builds as we drive into the city to check in to the luxury of The Langham Hong Kong.
My taste buds are as excited as I am to be back. Throughout our stay we dine on exceptional Cantonese cuisine in the Langham’s three Michelin-starred T’ang Court, become instant fans of chef May Chow as we tuck into her bao burgers at Little Bao, and spin many a lazy Susan as we share dumplings in a city that raises the yum cha bar.
Since my last visit Hong Kong has become home to the M+ museum of visual culture (where I could easily spend a whole day) and the Hong Kong Palace Museum. They opened in 2021 and 2022, respectively. We also try a new way to reach Lantau’s Tian Tan Buddha – a Crystal+ cable car cabin where the fully transparent floor-to-ceiling glass has us floating high above the mountain.
For first-time visitors and those excited to return, we’ve turned to fellow Hong Kong lovers for their top tips.
DINING
Neil Perry, chef
When we join Qantas’s food and beverage creative director for a walk around the Wan Chai Wet Markets, he’s beaming as he reconnects with his old second home.
“Hong Kong is a city that’s always meant food and excitement to me. And being back this week, it’s like nothing has ever changed,” he says. “It’s an amazing city for quality and experience and freshness. Being a chef, it’s just mind-blowing.”
For a perfect day of dining in Hong Kong Perry says he’ll start with some congee at a simple local spot like Law Fu Kee.
“It’s nice to have that congee experience because it’s not something you’d usually eat at home. Then I would have lunch or dim sum at Lung King Heen, which is really delicate and amazing. Then for dinner it’s roast goose at Ho Lee Fook, which is a lot of fun and great cooking.”
Fresh bamboo, razor clams and other ingredients we can’t usually find in Australia are also high on Perry’s to-eat list in Hong Kong. “If you see them, dive in.”
What to order: The dumplings at the three Michelin-starred Lung King Heen, or for a more traditional yum cha experience head to the Luk Yu Tea House, one of Hong Kong’s oldest restaurants.
CULTURE
Carolynne Dear, editor
After moving to Hong Kong when her son was just a year old, Carolynne Dear has shared lots of local adventures for the whole family. The editor of Asia Family Traveller magazine says guided tours, especially Hong Kong Greeters’ food and temple tours, are a wonderful way to get to know the local culture.
Tai Kwun, the historic Central Police Station Compound, offers a great mix of cultural events and restaurants.
“You can walk through the old cells and find out what it was like to be a prisoner in the colony in the late 19th and early 20th centuries,” she says.
Hopping on a ferry to the outlying islands is another top way to spend a day.
“I’d recommend Cheung Chau, the ‘pirate’ island with pirate caves you can clamber into. Make sure you go first class and sit on the top deck for the views – it’s just a few cents more than the lower deck,” Carolynne advises.
Meanwhile, a top-deck seat on a tram, or Ding Ding as they’re known, costs around 60 cents and provides great views of historic neighbourhoods.
Touristy but worth it: The cable car to the Big Buddha on Lantau Island has incredible views over the ocean, airport runways and mountains.
NIGHT-LIFE
Gavin Yeung, writer and editor
For cocktail-loving Gavin Yeung, Hong Kong is a city full of classic and cutting-edge concoctions to try. The writer and editor at Hong Kong’s Tatler Dining says the city has something for everyone, from classy cocktail bars in Wan Chai and Tsim Sha Tsui to dive bars and nightclubs at Lan Kwai Fong.
Yeung’s personal favourites include DarkSide, in the Rosewood Hong Kong hotel. “It oozes sophistication,” he says, “from the classically inspired cocktails to the jazz performances and the ceiling installation of rotating hourglasses.” The Aubrey in the Mandarin Oriental is another favourite, thanks to its Japonisme-inspired interiors and shochu-forward cocktails.
For an unexpected taste of Hong Kong, Yeung recommends the Bo Jai Fan at Central speakeasy 25:00.
“It emulates the flavour of claypot rice with the use of shiitake-infused gin, Amaro Montenegro fat-washed using Chinese sausage, and elderflower.”
Meanwhile, those who like to kick on can sing karaoke until first light at venues such as CEO and Red Mr.
Where to bar hop: Hollywood Road in Soho. Start with an alfresco wine at Louise or Shady Acres, move on to cocktails at Quinary and Penicillin, then end the night at Draft Land or Zzura for cocktails with a side of shisha.
SHOPPING
Virginia Chan, tour operator
With so many options, from tiny stalls to mega malls, it’s best to decide what you want out of a Hong Kong shopping expedition before heading off, says Virginia Chan of Humid with a Chance of Fishballs Tours.
For local and international brands, Hong Kong’s biggest mall, Harbour City, has almost 800,000sqm of shops to choose from, while those who prefer to hunt for unique treasures should head to PMQ.
“Another hip, trendy, yet retro area is 618 Shanghai Street, a revitalised art mall full of cool shops,” she says.
Bargain hunters can explore the markets, where haggling is expected. “You can counter at 50 to 75 per cent of the original price and see how offended they get.”
Chan says specialised areas include Sneakers Street and the Sino Centre (for anime action figures and Lego). Meanwhile, Asian skincare brands can be found in Sasa shops across the city.
What to buy: Hand-embroidered Chinese slippers from third-generation family-run store Sindart add pops of colour to any outfit.
SPORT
Chris Dwyer, writer
Dragon-boat racing on the spectacular Victoria Harbour, horse-racing surrounded by skyscrapers, and three days of partying, costumes and fun around the Hong Kong Rugby Sevens are just some of the events writer Chris Dwyer would happily hop on a plane to see again in Hong Kong.
After 18 years as a Hong Kong expat, Dwyer says the annual dragon-boat festival is a must. “It’s a hugely colourful, high-energy series of races celebrating Hong Kong’s rich cultural heritage and relationship with the sea,” he says.
Dwyer also says the racing scene is a little different at Happy Valley, one of the world’s most dramatic racecourse settings.
“Local fans are passionate and very knowledgeable, and there’s definitely less drinking going on than at the Melbourne Cup.”
What else to see: If you can time your sporting fix right, Chris says the traditional Chinese bun festival on Cheung Chau island has to be seen to be believed. It is on yearly in early May.
HIKING
Gabi Baumgartner, guide
Home to more green space than urban space, Hong Kong is a hiker’s delight, with mountains, valleys, beaches, waterfalls and forests all within an hour of the city by public transport.
The director of Walk Hong Kong, Gabi Baumgartner, says there are four long-distance trails to explore, plus hundreds of smaller trails.
“I have been rambling across this territory for 26 years and still have trails to discover,” she says.
Baumgartner, who guides day- and night-time hikes to see wildlife such as civet cats, says that with 360-degree views including Hong Kong Island and Shenzhen on clear days, the Ma On Shan peak is one of her favourite trails.
“Despite its relative low height of 702m above sea level it feels like a true mountain when climbing up.”
For those who prefer to stick to flatter trails Baumgartner recommends the Olympic Trail, the South Lantau Country Trail and the Nei Lak Shan Loop, with no challenging uphill or downhill sections.
When to walk: The best season for hiking is from October to May, while the best time to see wildlife on night walks is March to November.
HONG KONG’S BEST NEW HOTELS
In the heart of Tung Chung, the first MGallery hotel in Hong Kong is an eco-friendly retreat with lush outdoor gardens and suites with private plunge pools. Rooms from $HK1395 ($268) a night.
This boutique stay in Wan Chai combines timber panelling, plush velvet upholstery and antique brass doors, with green ticks for its own water bottling plant. Rooms from $HK2200 ($422) a night.
The Fullerton Ocean Park Hotel
The first Fullerton resort in the world has five dining destinations, an infinity pool and kids’ lagoon, and panoramic views of the South China Sea. Rooms from $HK1513 ($292) a night.
Milan-based designer Chi Wing Lo transformed the Regent Hong Kong into pure heritage luxury on the edge of Victoria Harbour. Rooms from $HK7500 ($1412) a night.
GETTING THERE
Qantas operates daily return flights between Sydney and Hong Kong.
This month, Melbourne to Hong Kong flights started operating three days a week and will increase to four weekly services from mid-July.
Originally published as The ultimate guide to Hong Kong in 2023, according to expert travellers
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