I've hiked all over Australia, but this Blue Mountains trek remains my favourite

Why spend thousands of dollars to hike in Norway or New Zealand, when places like this exist in Australia (for practically $0)...

Update (13/02/2025): Though a series of landslides have seen the full Mount Solitary loop closed more than open over the last few years (always check the National Parks local alerts page for Mount Solitary before planning a trip and heading off) it's finally possible to do it once again starting from Furber Steps (although starting from the Golden Stairs remains a no go with track repairs ongoing).

I've cooked dinner in some scenic places, but this takes the cake. A wide open valley splays out in front of me, a kaleidoscope of pink and orange clouds on one side, a mass of purple on the other. A dam glistens in the distance, while in front of me thousands of green trees shimmer.

No, this isn't Tasmania, Norway or Switzerland, this stunning view is in NSW, Australia, just an hour and a half's drive from Sydney.

Even better, the cicadas haven't started screaming yet and there is that sense of calm in the air you get before a storm.

This is one hike I will never get tired of.

Everything's quiet, save for the bubbling of my camping kettle. I lie on my back, head feeling the rock through my jumper, savouring the moment, knowing I've got about 10 minutes before the rain arrives. Where am I? The answer may surprise you...

I'm in the Blue Mountains, a place known more for its cults, canyoning and climbing than for epic multi-day hikes.

But though it doesn't have the pretty huts and week-long boardwalked hikes of Tasmania (or the huge lakes of Norway), it has one three-day adventure that calls me back again and again: Mount Solitary (also known as Korowal, meaning "the strong one").

No Trondheim? No problem.

While Warragamba Dam is hardly a Norwegian Fjord and Melville's lookout isn't quite Trolltunga, considering a two-week trip to Norway from Australia would probably cost you at least $5,000 (and a trip to Tasmania would probably cost you about $2,000), this Blue Mountains hike never ceases to amaze me.

I've hiked all over Australia, but this humble Blue Mountains hike, just an hour and a half from Sydney, remains my favourite

The views, especially from the top of Mount Solitary, are stunning, and the sense of vertigo is surely international. The remoteness you get, barely an hour and a half out of Sydney, is amazing, too.

The beginning

The views over Mount Solitary from The Golden Stairs are dramatic.

The hike begins at Katoomba Falls Kiosk where you descent Furber Steps to Federal Pass (you can also start from the Golden Stairs off Narrowneck, but this route is currently closed due to track repairs after a landslide) and make your way through the trees to Ruined Castle. 

Ruined Castle 

From the bottom of the Golden Stairs, it's 3.4km to Ruined Castle.

Ruined Castle Campground has toilets and water tanks. There is also an optional extra detour where you can walk to Ruined Castle - a hill which looks like an old set of ruined ramparts. 

Korowal knife edge

Korowal tested my hiking boots' traction.

After going past Ruined Castle campsite, you hike for another kilometre or so before you start the ascent up korowal - Mount Solitary's Northwest ridge. Here, some sections require you to throw your pack up and climb up them. Others require spiderman-esque manoeuvres. Though this section of the hike used to be unmarked, now there are (some) metal yellow arrows to help you find your way.

Chinamans Gully

The views here are spectacular.

Once you reach the top of korowal ridge and start walking along the top of Mount Solitary, there are various flat spots where people have camped along the way to a nice gully. Here, there are caves with Aboriginal rock art in them, and a sign asking campers to not camp past that point (to prevent damage to the Indigenous artefacts and to stop what is an occasional water source getting polluted).

After periods of extended rain there can be a small creek here down at the end of the gully, but you can't rely on it for water (and when there is water it's best to treat it). There is also a place here called Melville's lookout, which has great sunset views over the valley below (and in the distance, Warragamba dam).

The logbook

After leaving the gully and hiking to the end of the top of Mount Solitary, you can sign the logbook, and take in the views over Kedumba River (if you are going to drink from this, make sure you treat it). You then face a meniscus-mangling descent, taking you down to a junction where you can continue on to Kedumba River, or turn right and walk about 3 kilometres to Kedumba Campground (if sleeping at Kedumba Campground you retrace your steps in the morning, coming back to this same junction to complete the hike). 

Kedumba River

Soon after this you cross Kedumba River. After Kedumba River you continue through the bush for another few kilometres until you reach the Sublime Point fire trail, where a seemingly never-ending slog back up to Scenic World begins. 

*Always check the NSW National Parks website for closures and alerts before setting off, and only attempt if you are an experienced bushwalker with adequate safety and navigation equipment, which should include a PLB.

Originally published as I've hiked all over Australia, but this Blue Mountains trek remains my favourite