It’s cool again: 12 reasons Hahndorf is worth another look
Welcome to the town investing in fresh ideas, mixing the old with the new, and building a strong artisan culture where all you need is a dream, belief … and a fair bit of skill. See the highlights.
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Hahndorf is lifting the lid on scores of wild and wonderful people who are building a strong artisan culture in one of our most popular tourism destinations.
There’s people like Kat Romeo, who recently set up a business specialising in 19th century journals and artwork … and a taco and tequila bar.
Or Elspeth Domin, who turned her back on a successful corporate career to start immersive and accessible art workshops for people of all ages and abilities.
Then there’s multi-generational business, like Sebastian Graham, who runs the iconic Hahndorf Leathersmith, having taken over the reins from his late father John.
All are featured in a hit festival featuring the town’s best and rights: Hahndorf. Handmade. Handcrafted. Handpicked.
Here are the top 12 highlights (in no particular order) ...
1) HAHNDORF LEATHERSMITH
Amid the Akubras, leather belts, whips, gloves, bags, Ugg boots, jackets and quiet hum of country music in the background, lies a small sign to customers, warning them not to waste the hardworking staff’s time by asking for repairs on, to paraphrase politely, cheap, imported junk.
You can see their argument.
This is a shop that sells only Australian leather. Its belts, for instance, come with a lifetime guarantee. Much of its stock is handmade on site.
Sheets of smooth leather hang over each other in the busy workshop adjacent to the front door, where two big blokes in flannelette shirts are immersed in their work.
It’s the sort of place you could get lost in four hours.
Pressed on the sign, owner Sebastian Graham admits with a wry smile that they’re not too hard line these days.
“If one of our regulars wants to come in and needs their handbag fixed, we’ll probably do it.
“I do say probably – so long as you’re a local and know how to bake scones,” he adds with a wide smile.
His late father, John, wrote the sign, among many others throughout the store, and Sebastian has kept all these tongue-in-cheek reminders of his old man, after taking over the family business 10 years ago.
He grew up in the shop and it’s always been in his blood. He remembers working with mum Jennyand dad on weekends.
He’s proud of what it stands for.
“We try and keep things to the best quality we can,” he says.
“And I guess we’re pretty unique. I don’t know that there’s not too many places around making a product from start to finish, and a product like leather goods as well.”
To almost prove the point, he skilfully shows us how he crafts and prepares a personalised dog collar, masterfully cutting and smoothing out the leather, punching holes and outlining letters, then applying a varnish before allowing it to dry.
It takes him about five minutes.
“These became really popular after Covid. We had them before but, afterwards, everyone seemed to have a dog,” he says.
Welcome to Hahndorf Leathersmith.
If you’ve been to the town with the proud and pronounced German roots anytime over the past three decades, you’ll know this joint well.
The rustic setting, the overflowing leather goods throughout, the upside down cowboy out the front, the statue of the blue heeler which demands a second look just to make sure it’s not real.
John Graham first came to the area in the 1980s, having worked as an industrial engraver in Melbourne.
And, as you might expect, it comes with a fairly colourful tale.
“He was in his 30s and lost an eye cracking a whip,” Sebastian begins.
“He used to sell leather goods on The Esplanade, St Kilda, on the weekends. And he was there cracking his whip one day to attract people and someone slipped in the way and it came back and it took out his eye. So he packed up his leather goods and drove himself to hospital.”
The accident put an end to his engraving trade, because he’d lost his depth vision.
“But the leather work, which was his passion, was still there,” Sebastian says.
John worked at a pub, but on the weekends would sell his leather goods in Hahndorf.
Until the current building, an old, magnificent slice of local history – the site of the second pub in town, built in 1853 – came up for rent in 1983.
“We’ve been here ever since; it’s a unique little place,” Sebastian says.
Hahndorf has a reputation for being one of the country’s premier tourist towns.
And while locals certainly don’t want the tourists going anywhere, particularly after the rigours of the pandemic, they are keen to point to the fact that there’s something far deeper at play here.
Hahndorf isn’t just some tourist trap full of souvenir shops and takeaways.
This is a town that makes a whole lot of its own stuff.
It grows a lot of its own stuff, too.
This is a town willing to embrace the old, but desperately wanting to try new things.
It has endured the rigours of the pandemic and emerged feeling rejuvenated. It’s a town with a strong sense of community, which is also building a bona fide artisan culture. And it has a festival to prove it.
That festival is Hahndorf. Handmade. Handcrafted. Handpicked.
It kicked off four years ago in the shadow of the pandemic and last year pumped about $12m into the local economy by promoting the village heavily in the month of September.
Now, with the Covid shackles officially removed, all borders open and international travel back in full swing, hopes are high for this 2023 version.
The month-long festival is offering more than 400 intimate events in and around the main drag of the historic village.
Hahndorf marketing manager Mikyla Gilbert says the key now is to build on the success of the past few years.
“The reason this works is that all events are small and intimate,” Gilbert says.
“This festival provides a platform for locals to showcase their passion and dedication to their craft, whether that be making wine and food, to creating art, or simply igniting your curiosity to try something new.”
The event concept was the brainchild of the Hahndorf Business & Tourism Association, which wanted to reintroduce South Australians to the town, which is only a short drive from the Adelaide CBD.
“Hahndorf has evolved into a true artisan village and we think many South Aussies may not be aware of the sheer depth and range of the talent and produce associated with our region,” association chair Carolyn Cattrall says.
“The festival is about inviting people to rediscover Hahndorf and not just once a year but more often.
“Just like a popular beach suburb or townships interstate like Daylesford, Hahndorf – only 15 minutes up the freeway – should be on people’s radar for an escape, shopping and dining destination.”
Hahndorf Leathersmithis holding workshops to make ‘Personalised Collars For your Furry Friend’. Every Thursday & Saturday during September, 9.30am.
2) WALDEN’S GENERAL STORE
It resembles an old 19th century cabin.Darkened, wooden walls. Low cut ceilings. An animal skull on the wall. Firewood in the corner. A fire keeping out the cold. Folded blankets. The dulcet tones of The Boss playing quietly in the background.
On top of a gorgeous old dairy table sits a candle and lamp, next to two stacked, historic journals and a fountain pen.
The walls are filled with 19th century era paintings and books. A few portraits. Some ships. Cabinets are stocked with lift-arm lighters and antique cameras.
And out the back there is … a taco and tequila bar.
Of course there is … we did say the town was embracing the old and the new and Walden’s General Store in the centre of town is as probably as good an example as any.
Kat Romeo took over the business about a year ago, fresh from a career in retail.
She’d always loved 19th century art, had excelled at classical studies at school, and developed a passion for journals and journal writing while travelling through Europe in her teens.
So why not put all three together for her first business venture?
“Obviously I was hugely inspired by mostly the 19th century but further than that just art and antiques so it seemed like the right fit given Hahndorf is a place with such a prominent story,” says Romeo, who grew up in the foothills and now calls the town home.
“I get asked all the time why I’d open a shop like this. I just thought, ‘OK, if I’m gonna open a shop, what would I sell?’ And this was it.”
Among their most popular items are the 19th century-style journals which, Romeo hopes, will be made completely on site within a year. She and partner Jon Di Pinto are currently mastering the art of binding them and have started making their own paper.
The artwork is also doing particularly well. The files are sourced online, then mounted, framed, varnished and completed in-house.
As we speak, Kat is planning a European trip to boost the antique stocks.
“We’re thinking about sending back a container from the flea markets,” she says.
As part of the festival, she is hosting a workshop titled “19th century journaling”. This will involve filling a fountain pen from an inkwell, dipping a toe in the skill of using calligraphy on handmade paper, then wax sealing your own letter by candlelight. Each participant will leave with their own leather handmade journal
“The class is just to open that door for people, to show them it’s not as daunting as it seems. It’s just an introduction, feeling the pen, experiencing how journaling was back in the day,” she says.
It is suggested that the skillset Romeo is teaching is rather particular, so how did she learn herself? In typical millennial fashion, she replies without inhibition: “The internet. There’s no real courses out there for what we are doing.”
Out the back is a taco and tequila bar that was opened in February. They thought it would just open on weekends, but it quickly “blew up” and they had to hire four people behind the bar.
“It was really popular but at the moment it’s really just for the summer months. It was mainly the locals who really got behind it,” she says.
So a very original 19th century store, powered by 21st century technology, with a taco and tequila bar out the back.
“Yeah, I didn’t really have a business plan,” Romeo says, laughing.
Walden’s General Store … is holding ‘19th Century Journaling’ workshops on September 14, 21 and 28, 5-7pm.
3) THE MAKERY CO
Elspeth Domin was running a successful events business when the pandemic hit. Along with many other businesses in her line of work, things flatlined pretty damn quickly. Her mood soon followed. Feeling pretty flat, she needed to find a way out of her funk.
Domin had been a talented artist growing up but life had become so busy it had been placed firmly on the backburner. She hadn’t put paint to canvas for anywhere from eight to 10 years.
Now she had no excuse, so she got back into it. She had forgotten how much she loved it.
She painted more and more and then began running workshops for up to eight people in her home studio. Word spread and more people started coming.
Then she had an exhibition.
People were intrigued by her technique; her works actually contain two paintings in one.
The first one is obvious to the eye, the second can only be seen with the lights turned down and the ultraviolet torches turned on.
Then her workshops sold out for the next 12 months or so.
With demand skyrocketing, in October last year, she decided to bite the bullet and opened a shop in the centre of Hahndorf, The Makery Co, to expand the workshops.
“I’m very humbled by the response, and really excited to see what the next 12 months are going to bring,” she says.
“Opening a business is a pretty scary thing.”
The Makery Co now has a staff of five and a diversity of workshops, from painting to ceramics, to photography, to floristry.
Domin has deep roots in Hahndorf. Her parents opened the first candlemaker shop in town almost a quarter of a century ago, Hahndorf Candlemaker, so it feels pretty special to be able to find her own niche.
“Covid was a blessing in disguise,” she says.
“It actually just gave me the opportunity to dive into my passion of painting, which I was far too busy to do beforehand. And it led me, completely organically, to this.
“And to have that opportunity is so rare these days – to find somewhere that is missing something. It feels like Hahndorf kind of has everything. You’ve got your beautiful wineries and restaurants and clothing stores and gift stores and all the rest, but now there’s somewhere people can come to have an actual hands-on experience as well.”
Domin says her workshops, some of which will form key parts of the festival program, are aimed at being inclusive.
“I wanted to create a place where everybody feels nurtured. And they also felt safe,” she said.
“And they weren’t afraid to come and just explore and tap into their creative spirit because I find that in other experiences that I’ve, I’ve talked to people about when I go to other creative workshops, often people are doing very much the same thing.
“They might all be painting the same picture. And there will always be one or two people who are really, really good at the class. And people will look at that. And they don’t feel very good about themselves.
“So here, I’ve created a space where everybody taps into their own unique ideas, embraces their individuality, and it eliminates any kind of competition. It just allows everybody to be themselves. We are very hands-on with the people that attend our workshops. My staff and myself will always be there to help people through any blocks or any situations where they might feel a little bit anxious or stressed.
“And just help people realise that they don’t need to paint the Mona Lisa, they can paint a bunch of dots. It’s probably just as fun and it looks fantastic. It helps them to practice mindfulness, to just be in the moment, get away from the crazy busyness of everyday life and just embrace things.”
Domin and her team are proud to be playing a part in what they see is a revival of Hahndorf.
“I just hope that it continues to flourish and embrace new experiences,” she says.
“It’s great to see where it’s come from because you know, over a decade ago, Hahndorf did kind of go through a bit of a dry spell, in the sense that everything was just very souveniry and a little same, same. Whereas now, I feel like there’s even more character and originality coming to the town.”
The Makery Co …is holding a series of workshops throughout September including ‘Paint Your Own Canvas Clutch’ and ‘Vases, Posies and Bubble Workshop’.
4. BEERENBERG FARM’S INSIDERS’ TOUR
New VIP experience at Beerenberg
Experience an exclusive tour of Beerenberg Farm hosted by managing director Anthony Paech. Enjoy scenic, behind-the-scenes views of the farm and production process.
● Dates: September 1, 15 and 22, noon
● Cost $200pp
5. 8 BALL MASTERCLASS
Super great value and lots of fun,
come once or every week
In this workshop you will learn incredible tips on how to improve your pool game at The Old Mill Hahndorf. Burger plus beer included.
● Dates: September 7, 14, 21 and 28, 6.30pm
● Cost: $25pp + booking fee
6. BARISTA 101
Only two people at a time can book
this class, very intimate
Join owner and head barista Matt and learn the basics of coffee beans and grinds, tamping and extraction techniques, troubleshooting, milk texturing, coffee styles and simple latte art.
● Dates: September 2, 9, 16 and 23, 4pm
● Cost: $90pp + booking fee
7. GINGERBREAD MARTINI MASTERCLASS
Adorable and delicious
Get ready for the festive season and celebrate with a gingerbread martini. Learn to roll and cut gingerbread martini men.
● Dates: September 7, 14 and 21, 6pm
● Cost: $65pp + booking fee
8. MAKE YOUR OWN COOLAMON
A First Nations experience with Peramangk elder
Make your own coolamon with Peramangk elder Ivan Copley with art materials supplied at The Cedars Hahndorf. Don’t miss this special opportunity to learn a creative skill while learning about Australia’s First Nations people.
● Date: September 10, 12.30pm
● Cost: $90pp + booking fee
9. CREATE YOUR OWN BONSAI
This sells out every year
Adrian from Grass Roots Vintage has had more than 30 years’ experience working with Bonsai. Everything provided including tools, pot and starter material. Numbers strictly limited.
● Date: September 24, 10am
● Cost: $225pp + booking fee, participant.
$25pp + booking fee, observer
10. AUTHENTIC ITALIAN
COOKING CLASSES
Family fun and you get to eat heaps
A hands-on delicious cooking class with chef Cristian at Hahndorf Italian restaurant Il Mulino. Learn to make pizza and pizza fritta.
● Dates: September 16 and 9.30am. September 23 and 30, at 4.30pm,
● Cost: $60pp + booking fee
11. GRUNDS GOURMET FOOD
& WINE TASTING
Support a new business, will be yummy
Relax with owner Taras with cool beats, hot food and fun conversation. Dinner of a low and slow pulled pork slider and native flavoured ice cream.
● Date: September 16, 23 and 29, 7pm
● Cost: $58pp + booking fee
12. APPLE STRUDEL MAKING CLASS
Affordable and on every day
Experience a unique hands-on class with a Hahndorf Inn chef guiding you through to create your very own apple strudel and enjoy with hot drink.
● Dates: Daily 10.30am
● Cost: $25pp + booking fee
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