Tasting Australia: Barossa Valley’s new stars of food and wine
The future stars of the Barossa Valley’s food, wine and hospitality scene chat about their past, their future and the mentors who helped them along the way
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A spotlight will be put on the stars of the Barossa’s food, wine and hospitality scene this weekend as part of Tasting Australia.
Renowned chef Mark McNamara has chosen five chefs and 10 winemakers to represent the region’s culinary future. The event, called Masters Apprentices, features a five-course lunch prepared by the burgeoning talent. You probably haven’t heard of them yet, but McNamara believes they’re destined for big things.
“These guys are beginning of their journey,” he says. “They finished their apprenticeships a long time ago and they’re now running kitchens and wineries. They might not be the names on everyone’s lips, but I guarantee that some of them will be the outstanding chefs and winemakers of the future.”
Katie Spain caught up with them to chat about their past, their future and the mentors who helped them get to where they are today.
Alex MacClelland
Winemaker, Bethany Wines
“Growing up in London meant winemaking was never on my horizon as a career,” Alex says. “I had much more achievable dreams such as fighter pilot, lawyer (a judge) or architect.”
Instead, he starting a marketing career in Sydney. A bottle of wine changed all that.
“I was banging on to my best mate and wine appreciation buddy about why the Paul Jaboulet Syrah we were drinking was so exciting. As his eyes glazed over, I realised I needed a new avenue for my passion!”
Alex moved his family to Adelaide where he studied the Graduate Diploma in Oenology and went on to work wineries in the Rhone Valley, Burgundy, the Barossa Valley and New Zealand before returning to South Australia in a contract winemaking role for clients across Coonawarra, Barossa Valley and the Limestone Coast. The Barossa stole his heart and he returned in 2011 and spent six years making internationally recognised, multi award-winning wines predominantly from the Southern Grounds of the Barossa around Lyndoch and Rowland Flat. The chance to make wine at Bethany Wines was one he couldn’t pass up. He also owns his own acre of Barossa dirt. “Awards are wonderful and exciting but until I’ve made the ‘best’ wine in my mind I won’t be satisfied,” he says.
Tim Pelquest-Hunt
White, sparkling and red winemaker, Pernod Ricard Winemakers
Winemaking wasn’t always on Sydney-born Tim Pelquest-Hunt’s agenda. Originally, he wanted to be a classical singer. He studied Music and Arts at the University New South Wales, earning a crust at a suburban Sydney wine store when he wasn’t hitting the books. “My pivotal career moment was leaving classical singing to move to New Zealand to seriously pursue winemaking at Lincoln University,” he says.
Tim swiftly climbed the career ladder, working vintages in New Zealand, the Hunter Valley, Tasmania, West Sussex (UK), Rheinhessen (Germany), Napa Valley (US), and finally the Barossa where he is now a white, sparkling and red winemaker at Pernod Ricard Winemakers. Riesling is his thing. “Being able to work with Steingarten Riesling was a career highlight (it was the first six-pack of wine I ever bought when I was 19),” he says. “It was one of the wines that sparked my interest in all things wine and was the springboard for giving winemaking a go.”
He’ll never forget the day his mentor Patrick Materman (Former chief winemaker for Brancott Estate) said, “Don’t be afraid to ask the hard questions. Stick your nose in where it’s not your business and be inquisitive.”
Matthew Cartwright
Sous chef, Musque Food & Wine
Musque Food & Wine is a must when visiting Tanunda. The food is spectacular. Matthew is part of the team producing the goods. He quite literally “fell into” cooking.
“Younger Matt dreamt of being a police officer, which given how naughty I was (and continue to be), was questionable,” he says. “I loved drawing and this began my passion for art as a creative outlet. I took a job as an apprentice because it was a job available at the time.” The rest is history.
He went on to lead a team at Lou Miranda Estate as head chef for three years. “I relished the freedom to create and try new things,” he says. “I also had the opportunity to directly train young chefs.”
Post-COVID, he joined Stuart Oldfield and the team at Musque. “This is a unique team, constantly challenging and contributing to our ever-changing menu. No ideas are off the table with a fortnightly menu change.”
Jamie Wall
Head chef at Harvest Kitchen
You know you’re on the right path when you win the Best Pizza Maker in SA award. That’s what happened in 2006 when Jamie Wall was a fledgling chef. Since then, he moved up the culinary ranks; from head chef at Appellation to his current role at the helm at Harvest Kitchen. Memorable career moments include collaborative dinners with the late chef Jeremy Strode, Peter Gilmore, and Rodney Dunn (from Tasmania’s The Agrarian Kitchen. “As well as some amazing Relais & Châteaux events,” he says.
Jamie now puts his own unique twist on the dishes at Harvest Kitchen and according to his mentor, renowned chef Mark McNamara, he’s smashing it. Jamie has been soaking up his Mark’s advice for years now. “I honestly couldn’t be more thankful for everything Mark taught me as an apprentice and in my early days cooking,” he says. “I’ve never met someone who can use spices the way Mark does.”
Jamie looks forward to being part of the Barossa’s risen as a global food and wine destination. “We have so many sensational wineries and food producers, from produce to restaurants I think we’re only going to get better and better.”
Kyle Johns
Executive chef, The Louise (Appellation Restaurant and Three75)
When South Africa-born Kyle johns was growing up in western Sydney, his grandmother showed him the ropes in the kitchen. “The way she threw spices together caught on with me,” he says. “She taught me a lot, not only about cooking but making people happy with food.”
During the four years as an apprentice, he jobs from corporate catering at google head office to hatted restaurants.
Kyle briefly worked in Cape Town before returning to Sydney where he met his now wife (a pastry chef) in the kitchen at O Bar and Dining (formally Summit Restaurant) by Michael Moore. Kyle’s CV is impressive. He worked with Stefano Manfredi at Osteria Balla and Flying Fish; both one hat restaurants. “The executive chef (Stephen Seckold) was a tough mentor but fair. He broke me, but unlike the other “traditional” abusive chefs, he built me back up,” Kyle says. “Work there was a turning point for me, not only for my career but also my personal life. Steve is still my mentor and a really close friend.”
After travelling and working across Australia, the couple hit the Barossa and joined the team at Appellation where they met executive chef Ryan Edwards. “We were only there for three months but it impacted our lives so much that we decided to come back to the Barossa at the start of 2019.”
The rest is history. “Ryan has been such a good mentor. He has showed me all the wild foraging spots and fast tracked us to becoming a ‘Barossan’.”
After opening and running the new bar at The Louise, Kyle was offered the executive chef role at Appellation and three75. “I love my job and my new life in the Barossa.”
Sarah Voigt
Head baker at Breaking Bread Bakery
Sarah has bread on the brain and the world (or at least our stomachs) are better off for it. There are two standout moments in her career. One was four years ago, when she got to work at New York’s Blue Hill At Stone Barns. “I got to hang out with the man himself, Dan Freakin’ Barber, the guy who put asparagus on every dish on his menu because someone over ordered,” she says. “It was intense and nerve wracking but heck, it was worth it.”
There, she learnt assertiveness. “That bread deserves respect and I could travel the world with this career.”
The second defining moment happened in January 2018 when she moved to San Francisco with nowhere to stay, no real plan, and an interview at Tartine Bakery. “It’s definitely the furthest I’ve travelled for an interview.” They’d already filled the spot so she worked there for free until a position came up at M.H.Bread and Butter. “That was more my scene.”
There, she experimented with ingredients and scoring. “Once I was comfortable with bread and the flours, I introduced Aussie ingredients like Vegemite and wattle seed (they sold out every time). I learned that there is more to bread than one thinks; you have to consider the water temperature and how much water you add, the room and flour temperature, the humidity outside, the speed of the mixer, and how long you can mix the flour before it breaks down completely. The list goes on but it didn’t take me long to work it out that bread was my thing.”
Barossa bread is now her focus. “I see the Barossa being more about how things are made and where the ingredients are sourced, rather than absent-mindedly buying a loaf of bread or dining at a restaurant with no care for the story behind it.”
Brock Harrison
Winemaker at Elderton Wines
Brock cut his teeth as a winemaker with Pernod Ricard for more than 13 years before quite literally finding his way home to take on the winemaker role at Elderton Wines. Brock grew up next to the Elderton property and was a cellar hand for the brand back in 2005.
He is an enthusiastic chap. He once broke a shovel in an eager attempt to set a record time for digging out a nine-tonne open fermenter full of shiraz skins. When he returned in 2019, he was as energetic as ever.
“This was a really defining moment in my career as it took me back to where it all started,” he says. “I got a real kick out of the hands-on nature of winemaking from the beginning.”
When Brock’s mentor Don Young said, “You are only as good as your next wine” the young winemaker took his words seriously. Brock’s proudest career moments include numerous gold medals and trophies for his chardonnays. “The absolute highlight would have to be my first vintage making Chardonnay in 2012 when the Jacob’s Creek Reserve Adelaide Hills Chardonnay (a wine that retails for around $15) won the Bert Bear Trophy for Best Premium Previous Vintage White Wine at the 2013 Sydney Royal Wine Show.”
Trent Burge
Owner and winemaker, Barossa Boy Wines
Sixth generation Barossa winemaker Trent Burge comes from strong Barossa stock. His family’s long association with winemaking in the region can be traced back to 1855 when Trent’s great-great-great grandfather John Burge immigrated to South Australia and worked as a winemaker. Every generation since followed in his footsteps.
Trents’ parents, Grant and Helen Burge founded Grant Burge Wines in 1988 (now owned by Accolade Wines) and Trent engrossed himself in the industry from the ground up – just like his father and grandfather. “My father always said, ‘Great wines are made in the vineyard’.”
Trent cut his teeth as a cellar hand and winemaker’s assistant, and worked vintage alongside the experienced team at Illaparra Winery. He launched his own wine label Barossa Boy after a particularly great vintage in 2016.
“I want to continue the legacy that my forebears have created of the Barossa being the most premium wine region in Australia,” he says. “To leave it better than we found it through sustainable grape growing and winemaking techniques and to build modern-day workplaces that fuel our economy.”
In 2017 Trent and his wife Jessica welcomed their first child, the seventh generation in the Burge and Barossa Boy’s journey. Their first white wine, the Cheeky Tilly Riesling is named after their gorgeous little girl. It won a Gold Medal in the 2020 Barossa Wine Show.
Barossa Boy exports to the UK and in 2020, the pair launched their new brand, Corryton Burge, which is centred on their family property.
Sophie Melton
Assistant winemaker, Thorn-Clarke Wines
Second generation Barossa Valley winemaker Sophie Melton has always been
surrounded by wine. She grew up around the family Krondorf Road winery and spent many-a weekend working in the Charles Melton Cellar Door.
“Winemaking was always on the radar,” she says. “I did consider dentistry but after a vintage at Peter Lehmann’s in my gap year, I decided the wine game was for me.”
Since graduating from the University of Adelaide in 2018 with a Bachelor of Viticulture and Oenology (taking out the prestigious 2018 Gramp Hardy Smith Memorial Prize) while she was at it), she has completed four vintages as an assistant winemaker at Eden Valley’s Thorn-Clarke Wines in Eden Valley where she soaks up wisdom from chief winemaker Peter Kelly. “One of Peter’s quotes that stuck with me since my first vintage is; ‘Almost everything can be un-done. Blending can’t be, so don’t f*** that up’.”
Clare Falzon
Executive chef, Hentley Farm
Clare’s appreciation of food was sparked by her European heritage and inspired by travel. “I worked in kitchens in Europe, UK and Australia where I saw first-hand the influence food has on individuals and culture,” she says. “My passion for a sense of community built from an intense love of food drew me to the Barossa where the opportunity to connect with farmers and the natural produce in the region is a daily occurrence.”
Past role have seen her work in the likes of London’s Amaranto Restaurant, Gordon Ramsay’s Maze, Heddon Street Kitchen and Pétrus, Amsterdam’s Bussia, and specialising in bread, cheese and charcuterie at NOMAD in Sydney. She is now executive chef at the Barossa’s Hentley Farm where Lachlan Colwill has been a major inspiration.
“Having the opportunity to forage, grow our own produce and interact with the farmer who delivers the produce each morning inspires me to deliver dishes that allow the produce to shine.”
She looks forward to watching the Barossa’s food scene grow. “My vision for the future is to participate in and watch the Barossa nurture and grow the immense food and wine opportunities we have, while supporting the community of producers and sharing our stories and creativity with others.”
Siobhan Wigan
Winemaker, Hentley Farm
Working alongside chief winemaker Andrew ‘Quinny’ Quinn is a dream come true for Siobhan, who previously worked at the likes of Yalumba and Shaw + Smith. “Working vintage 2014 with Quinny and Hentley Farm as vintage winemaker (in what was going to be a single vintage) was a career defining moment,” she says. “Eight vintages later, I’m still here helping Quinny craft outstanding wines from a very special patch of dirt.”
Winning the trophy for most outstanding table wine at the 2019 Barossa Wine Show (for the 2018 Old Legend Grenache) was also a thrill. Her hopes for the Barossa’s future are, “Exploring innovation while embracing our history.”
Tim Dolan
Senior winemaker, Peter Lehmann Wines
Tim Dolan is from strong winemaking stock. He is the third generation of his family to make wine in the Barossa. His father Nigel and grandfather Bryan were influential winemakers of their respective eras.
Tim helped out in the winery when he was a little tacker, earning pocket money for his toil. He completed a degree in Oenology from The University of Adelaide and cut his teeth working vintages in eight different regions across USA, Italy, Canada and closer to home here in Australia.
After returning to Oz, he joined the Peter Lehmann team in 2011 and worked alongside then chief winemaker, Andrew Wigan. Tim is a well-respected young chap. He has a particular thing for Barolo and his approach to winemaking is modern, but continually investigating the past.
Nathan Hunter
Junior sous chef, Fino at Seppeltsfield
When Nathan Hunter’s mentor Greg Cameron said, ‘Sometimes the hardest days in the kitchen can be the best days of your life,’ the words stuck. Nathan always wanted to be a chef. He is well on his way in his role in the bustling kitchen at acclaimed Fino at Seppeltsfield.
“My vision for the Barossa is for it to keep growing and continuing to be one of the best food and wine regions,” he says.
Belinda van Eyssen
Winemaker, The Cutting
South Africa-born grape whisperer dabbled in the world of chemical engineering and food technology before grapes stole her heart. “I came to Australia from a place on the outskirts of Cape Town – a melting pot of cultures with a rich history of wine production.”
Belinda’s people are the indigenous peoples of the wine-producing region. Generations of her family, including her mother, worked as grape-pickers. In the mid-2000s, Belinda broke that mould and became one of the South Africa’s first indigenous (and female) winemakers.
Her first wine mentor was Graham Weerts, an upcoming South African winemaker who is now based in California with Jackson Family Wines. Belinda spent years learning her craft in the United States, France, Portugal and New Zealand. She now calls the Barossa home and started family vineyard and cellar The Cutting in 2018 to specialise in premium Barossa shiraz production. Winning the trophy for Best 2017 Shiraz at the Marananga Wine Show in 2019 was a sign that she’s on the right path.
“I am impressed to see that a growing number of my counterparts in the region are now extremely mindful of climate change. New and sustainable varieties are sprouting, and winemakers are keen to preserve water, switch to organic methods and protect the soil. The vision I have for the Barossa essentially ties in with my own mindfulness of nature and its fruits as the lifeline to an excellent vintage.”
Marc van Halderen
Winemaker, Yalumba
When Marc van Halderen was a little tacker growing up in South Africa, he wanted to be to be an accountant or rock star. Instead, he worked in hospitality, visiting wineries and vineyards for work when a feverish dream (thanks to a particularly bad bout of Bali belly) set him on a different path. Since then, he’s made wine in South Africa, France and now South Australia, where he lives with his “beautiful, smart” Australian wife. He collected a few gongs along the way too. “My favourite is a trophy for Best Other White at Adelaide Wine Show 2018.”
His mentors were Lofty Ellis (Wine College Lecturer) and John Loubser (a Cape Town Winemaker) who taught him that, “If you want to be flash and famous go and do something else.”
In his current role at the Barossa’s historic Yalumba, Marc is not afraid of hard wine industry work. He hopes to contribute to consolidating the Barossa Valley floor and Eden Valley as the pre-eminent region of Australian wine. “Not just pigeon holed to shiraz,” he says. “There’s riesling, chardonnay, viognier, grenache, cabernet and newcomers too.”
Helen McCarthy
Senior Winemaker, St Hallett
Helen was born in England and to Australia with her family in 1988.
Her interest in science led her to in a winemaking degree at the University of Adelaide and she went on to work for the likes of Lindemans, Wynns, Seppelts Penfolds and Clare’s Taylors Wines where she was awarded the Gourmet Traveller Kemeny’s Medal for Young Winemaker of the Year and was awarded People’s Choice Wine Society Young Winemaker of the year. She also won a scholarship to participate in the prestigious Len Evans Tutorial and was part of the Wine Industry Future Leaders Program.
When Jericho Wines winemaker Neil Jericho told Helen McCarthy not to sweat the small stuff, she listened.
Since arriving back in the Barossa, she worked for Thorn-Clarke Wines and nurtured a love for the region, particularly Eden Valley (she has a particular thing for riesling).
She joined the St Hallett team in 2019 Stuart Blackwell where winemaker and brand ambassador Stuart Blackwell is a constant source of inspiration.
“My hope for the Barossa is for it to be a region that continues to be recognised as the pinnacle of shiraz in the world,” she says. “To do this we need to maintain the generosity of the past by passing on our experiences to the new generations of winemakers.”
The Masters Apprentices long lunch will beheld at The Barossa Cellar on May 2 from noon-3pm, $155/ticket. Tasting Australia continues until 8 May. tastingaustralia.com.au
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