See why European tourists have fallen in love with this Kangaroo Island retreat
Perched on hillside, overlooking a pristine private bay, this secluded Kangaroo Island retreat is now a massive drawcard to overseas visitors. But why do South Australians never visit?
SA Weekend
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The Italian newlyweds are on their dream honeymoon Down Under. Sydney, Uluru and the Great Barrier Reef are all on the agenda, but top of their itinerary is the unspoilt beauty of Kangaroo Island and its luxurious Sea Dragon retreat.
The rugged, nature-rich island – far more famous on the other side of the world than it is at home in South Australia – was the first place the honeymooners wanted to lock in when they met their travel agent to plan their once-in-a-lifetime trip. And Sea Dragon was the agent’s top tip for high-end accommodation on Kangaroo Island, along with exclusive Longitude 131 in Uluru and opulent qualia on Hamilton Island.
For Sea Dragon’s owners, Karin and John Greenslade and Alice and Greg Zammit, the anomaly of Kangaroo Island’s overseas fame and relative obscurity at home is mystifying.
“Especially Italy but everywhere in Europe, KI is a must to do when you come to Australia,” says Karin, who came from Germany and met her South Australian husband while both worked for Tourism NT.
“It’s certainly among the top five, if not top three or four. It’s that quintessential Australia, you know, and they love the wildlife.
“Because we have these visitors from all over the world, all over Australia, it’s a constant source of inspiration. My heart sings when they say that we’ve given them something that they don’t have at home.
“I’m stunned that South Australia has it at its doorstep and we still get people who say ‘I had no idea’.”
This two-night stay at Sea Dragon – where suburban worries are checked at the door for an indulgent, all-inclusive break that feeds every need – confirms what the Europeans have long realised.
The hideaway haven, a 25-minute drive from the ferry terminal at Penneshaw, is rich with wildlife. Untouched by the 2019 bushfire, nearly 300 kangaroos have made the eastern tip their home and meander over the 100ha property that boasts 15 rooms, beautifully fitted with Karin’s delightfully warm and eclectic style.
Standing on the balcony of one of Sea Dragon’s suites – perfectly appointed to take full advantage of the sweeping views down to its secluded beach at Pink Bay and beyond to the mainland – it’s obvious why this slice of paradise in the shadow of Cape Willoughby lighthouse has earned its global reputation.
A minimum two-night stay at Sea Dragon maximises peace and tranquillity, and accommodates all whims, making for an effortless holiday. Buffet breakfast and two-course dinner – with a menu curated by native food pioneer Andrew Fielke that’s designed to showcase Kangaroo Island’s best produce – are included.
During this stay, options include king george whiting with a lemon myrtle parmesan crust or cider-braised king henry pork cutlet with native muntries and green ant tart for dessert. Drinks from a cellar that boasts local wines are also part of the nightly rates. Meals are served in a cosy dining area that soaks up ocean views. Sea Dragon has an informal but opulent elegance that more than delivers on the owners’ mission to relieve guests of the stress of worrying about anything.
Even on chilly days, the island offers up rich rewards. An all-day trip – included in the price and run by the fun and knowledgeable Paul, one of five accredited tour guides on the Sea Dragon team – is a checklist of South Australian fauna. Koalas curled up in the island’s native manna gums, kangaroos, a black tiger snake, goannas, echidnas and flocks of birdlife including glossy black cockatoos all make their presence felt as the tour travels the length of the island past Seal Bay’s endangered Australian sea lions to Flinders Chase National Park, home to long-nosed fur seals and spectacular Admirals Arch.
The Greenslades – tourism specialists who have decades of experience in the industry and established a heritage-listed villa in Karin’s German homeland, which they ran for 14 years – took over Sea Dragon about three years ago with their business partners, who also have decades of experience promoting Australian travel experiences worldwide.
The purchase was made before international borders reopened in the wake of Covid.
The couples were immediately drawn to the property’s raw beauty.
“It’s just an amazing spot and wonderful opportunity,” says Karin.
“What pictures can’t describe is that it’s almost a factor of wellbeing. You come here and slow down and you just want to look out the window, you just want to be and that’s a beautiful feeling that it creates when you come in here … it’s like ‘wow, I didn’t realise this was here’.”
The new owners have brought their own vision to Sea Dragon on the island’s northeastern tip. The capacity of the retreat has doubled from eight rooms to 15 suites, rooms and villas
“People really want to take time to celebrate and appreciate the environment,” says John, who sits on the Kangaroo Island Tourism Alliance Board.
“It’s the wildlife, the physical environment and it’s really that we’re just the caretakers.
“It’s important that we’re wanting to attract people here to be able to share but also to make sure that we leave it in good shape for future generations. That might sound very idealistic, but it’s actually an underpinning objective of ours. Tourism handled really well plays an important conservation influence.”
A 30km walking trail will eventually connect the Cape Willoughby lighthouse, just 700m from Sea Dragon, to Penneshaw along the Dudley Peninsula.
It’s part of the owners’ mission to bring more locals on a journey to this world-famous destination.
“It’s an amazing, vibrant and still peaceful place, I don’t know where else you can easily find that,” says Karin, who rates the drive from Adelaide to Cape Jervis’s ferry terminal past stunning coastlines, cute little country towns and impressive food produces and wineries as one of Australia’s “most spectacular”.
“And who knows about it? And the ferry’s relaxing, most of the time you see dolphins, sometimes whales – it’s very easy way to have a holiday so close to your doorstep.”
With its addictive combination of indulgence and stress-free relaxation, Sea Dragon delivers on its owners’ mission to give holiday-makers “something to write home about”.
Sea Dragon rates start at $1860 twin-share for a two-night experience for two people, including ocean-view accommodation, daily European buffet breakfast and two-course dinner with beer, wine and non-alcoholic drinks.
Experience packages including transfers between the Penneshaw ferry terminal or Kingscote airport, full-day nature tour including lunch as well as other onsite activities are available at additional cost.
seadragonkangarooisland.com, phone 7095 2122, Instagram: @seadragon.ki
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