SAWeekend cover story: The unique SA wine tasting experiences where you need an appointment to avoid disappointment
Love going wine tasting but want a unique experience away from the crowds? Check out our list of 26 SA wineries where the only way you can sample their wares is by booking ahead.
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The way we taste wine has changed, perhaps forever, due to COVID-19 restrictions. The number of people in cellar doors is now restricted by social distancing regulations and booking ahead to avoid disappointment is recommended.
Many wine brands have also applied strict time limits to tasting experiences to keep up with demand and manage the flow of visitors. Fortunately, South Australians are still able to travel within the state.
Due to their size, some wine brands have been conducting “by appointment only” tasting experiences since day dot (well before the global pandemic hit). Most don’t actually have a cellar door, instead they host tastings in their homes, vineyards, wineries, sheds and backyards. No matter where you taste, it is important to book ahead. Don’t be shy … they want to welcome you. Not only will you leave with wine on your lips and adventure in your heart, you’ll most likely depart with new winemaker friends, too.
With that in mind, SAWeekend offers this list of some of the winemakers whose wares you can only taste by ringing ahead to let them know you are on your way.
MCLAREN VALE
VHS WINES - McLAREN VALE
Rule-breaking winemaker Samuel J. Smith conducts tastings of his extremely limited release (mind bending) wines out of a winery (aka a big green shed) with vineyard views. He is a captivating chap with infectious enthusiasm. “I absolutely love doing tastings by appointment,” he says. “I think it’s a wonderful way for me to be able to talk insightfully and intimately about our processes.”
Smith is traditionally trained in winemaking but prefers to push boundaries with his avant-garde approach. His winemaking workspace looks like something out of a sci-fi movie and the result is a tasting you don’t forget in a hurry.
“I guess in many ways I challenge the notions and preconceptions about what wine is really about,” he says. “It’s the vinous fusion of ancient vinification methods as a precursor to hi-fi finishing techniques.” Think vermouth-style infused wines made using Australian native flora.
He is one of the most exciting small producers on the Australian winemaking landscape. An encounter is unforgettable and there is no cost for tastings.
THREE DARK HORSES - McLAREN VALE
Three Dark Horses winemaker and director Matt Broomhead and his wife Kanitha are firm when they say, “Pick up the phone and call us – we’d love to host you.”
Running a winery is hard work, which is why they opt for tastings by appointment – it gives them time to make the wine. “We don’t host many,” Broomhead says. “About one group a month but we’d always welcome more. I think some people can be reluctant to reach out because they don’t want to impose but I don’t see it that way … as a winery we are always happy to share what we do and who we are. Getting feedback from customers face-to-face is invaluable.”
The intimate tastings happen under a big tree on their Blewitt Springs property (when the weather is nice) but in colder months they seat people in their barrel shed under a heater.
“Obviously tastings dropped to zero in March to May but we are starting to see some interest again,” Broomhead says.
What about the expectation to buy wine? “I never expect people to buy, but I would say 95 per cent always do. If you give them a memorable experience, they want to take something away to remember it by. I’ve often had people email me telling me that they opened a bottle with family or friends and told the story of the day they came down to taste. That’s always nice to hear and perhaps shows we’re on the right track.” There is no cost for tastings.
DANSHI RISE - McLAREN VALE
This is the kind of winery few people know about. Their online presence is limited (for now) but if you plan ahead, Danshi Rise is well worth the visit. Winemaker Steve Davis looks like a he’d be more comfortable on a Harley-Davidson (he probably would) and is a true laid-back Aussie gent. He loves to show people around his hilltop winery and barrel-packed wine shed.
In the bottle, you’ll find small batch reds (which lean toward the “big” side) that Davis takes great pride in making. Humble, heartfelt tastings don’t get better.
There is no charge for a tasting but it is essential to call or email Davis to book.
0408 562 647, stephendaniel@bigpond.com
HEDONIST WINES - McLAREN VALE
With a name like Hedonist, you know you’re in for a good time. “The Hedonist started life as a contract winemaking service for small to medium producers who did not have a production facility,” says veteran winemaker Walter Clappis.
“It was always our intention to have a small fun label to surround a name that I had registered years previous.”
Like the “tastings by appointment” sign on the Vale’s Strout Rd, their logo turns heads. “A graphic designer with a sense of humour suggested having a pig as our logo but hastened to quip that I should not take it as a personal affront!”
It is a family affair compromising Clappis, his daughter Kimberly and her partner James Cooter. All three are winemakers. The winery complex was never designed for the public and therefore no cellar door was ever proposed. That didn’t stop people making requests to visit the winery.
“Eventually we compromised and made it by appointment only,” Clappis says. “Some fortunate visitors even get a tour of the winery and the occasional taste of an up-and-coming vintage from the barrel.”
All tasting are free and are carried out on the clean, white blending bench. Credit card facilities are available.
BRASH HIGGINS - McLAREN VALE
An encounter with larger-than-life York City sommelier turned McLaren Vale winemaker Brad Hickey (aka Brash Higgins) is memorable.
Hickey applies a curious, hands-off approach to his stunning range of wines (there’s a lot of them) and varieties range from whites such as aromatic zibibbo (funky, full of skin contact and made in an amphora), a dry chenin blanc, riesling/semillon, the Greek variety crystal, and the intoxicating oxidated bloom (chardonnay), to medium bodied, approachable, lighter reds including grenache, mataro, nero d’avola, cinsault, carignan and shiraz.
Each one has a story and the best way to taste them is with Hickey there to tell it. “I walk guests out to our vineyard to discuss the geology, organic farming and its place in the larger scheme of things,” Hickey says. “Then we will head into the Brash Higgins winery to look at a few developing wines, maybe zibibbo or nero d’avola in amphora if it’s autumn/winter, followed by a look at six or more bottled wines.”
The wines are conversation starters and showstoppers. We’re lucky Hickey decided to call Australia home. A tasting usually goes for an hour to two hours and he prefers to limit them to six people – but can be talked into larger groups. There’s no cost involved but they do ask for a day’s notice.
APHELION WINES - McLAREN VALE
McLaren Vale winemaker Rob Mack has a serious thing for grenache. He’s a humble chap with a gentle demeanour and enviable backlog of winemaking. His skills earned him the The 2018 national Young Gun of Wine award for his micro batch, hand crafted, minimal intervention wines with a savoury edge. While the focus is on grenache, he also digs mataro and works with shiraz and sagrantino. Mack’s wife Louise and daughter Clairette are a constant source of inspiration and support (Louise created the emotive artwork on the labels).
“We currently offer tastings by appointment seven days a week,” Mack says. “We’ll be introducing some new paid tasting experiences shortly, including food (chocolate, cheese etc) and wine matching. If our wine club members come down for a tasting we will crack open sold out back vintage wines for them to taste to make the experience more special.”
It all happens at their tasting room (the heritage room at their Willunga home).
THE STOKE WINES - WILLUNGA
Hang out in a little backyard Willunga shed and listen to music by candlelight with new wave winemakers Doug and Bec Dugmore (and their little one Fin) while they show you through their full range. Stoke Wines are made using fruit from Kangaroo Island and the Adelaide Hills. Beautiful people, beautiful wine. Snacks included. $100 a head/minimum two people.
Message or email to book. wine@thestokewines.com, thestokewines.com
DABBLEBROOK WINES - SELLICKS FOOTHILLS
Vigneron Ian Adam literally lives a stone’s throw from his vineyards. That’s where you’ll taste his creations (the Long Lunch Rosé is pulse-quickening). Adam is a deft hand in the kitchen so tastings on the deck are always accompanied by tasty treats.
He and his wife Libbi produce extremely small amounts of their handcrafted wines (including grenache and shiraz) so it’s a lovely way to experience their creations, their lifestyle and the stunning environment around them. It’s jovial stuff – just like Adam. Inquire for prices (it depends on what and how much you want to eat).
BAROSSA VALLEY
THE MYSTERIOUS MR. BLACK - BAROSSA VALLEY
A touch of mystery, a laid-back approach, and wines that delight. What more could you want? Winemaker Charlie Black is part of the Barossa’s new breed and is an instantly likeable bloke. He has a smile that lights up rural South Australia and has a knack for grape whispering.
His creations are coveted stuff and the small batch nature of what he does means they’re not particularly easy to find (restaurants, trade and loyal followers tend to snap them up). That makes tastings, held around a wooden table beneath a big gum tree, all the more special.
It’s as real as it gets. There’s cheese, there’s banter, there’s thoughtful insight into his approach in the winery (which you can gaze at while you drink). You leave feeling full – soul full.
“I basically pour everything available when I do private tastings,” Black says. “More often than not I end up opening things that aren’t available too. Business is always secondary to a good time.”
There is no cost for tastings but due to the merit of the wines, you’ll want to take some home.
PAISLEY WINES - ANGASTON
When husband and wife team Derek Fitzgerald and Kirsten Harvey prepare dinner in the evening, they look out over their Eden Valley property and pinch themselves. Their home has vineyard views from every vantage point.
That’s where they conduct their intimate tasting experiences – at home. Either on their balcony (chooks and cats underfoot) or on their sleek (enviably tidy) kitchen bench. Fitzgerald has more than 20 years of winemaking experience under his belt and kickstarted the brand with the three red grape varieties he believes the Barossa does best – grenache, shiraz and mataro. Their range now includes an Adelaide Hills fiano and an Eden Valley riesling.
The company is named after the town of Paisley, just outside Glasgow in Scotland, which is where Harvey’s great-great-great- great-grandfather hailed from before settling in Adelaide in 1839.
Fitzgerald knows his stuff. Make sure you ask to taste the Fabric Range. “The Denim Mataro is almost constantly on the kitchen bench because we have to just keep checking to make sure it is still as tasty as we remember,” Harvey says.
Call 0439 982 839 to make an appointment. paisleywines.com.au
SMALLFRY WINES - ANGASTON
An afternoon with partners in life and business, Suzi Hilder and Wayne Ahrens, is an enlightening experience. The viticulturists-turned-winemakers craft organic, lo-fi wines using fruit from their Eden Valley and Vine Vale vineyards. Their cellar door (part of their historic Murray St home) has always been “by appointment only”.
It means you get their full attention – and an insightful glimpse into their biodynamic farming approach. Casual tastings are free but it is advisable to book a vineyard tour too (it’s wonderful – like the wines), which includes the tasting and matching food plates as a light lunch. $80/person for the tour, minimum two people – allow three hours.
YELLAND & PAPPS - NURIOOTPA
Susan and Michael Papps made the decision to turn their busy cellar door into an appointment only space in January 2019.
“Our business was going in a direction we didn’t want it to go in and we wanted to get back to our original ethos and dreams,” Susan Papps says. “We didn’t know the customers buying our wine anymore.”
They now operate tastings and take bookings Monday to Saturdays from 10am to 4pm. “We just require an email or phone call to see when spots are available,” she says. “We do private appointments where customers get a one-on-one with us.
“We find on Saturdays people generally ring and we fit them around our times available.” If they’re not available for bookings it’s because they’re at a work event or just busy in the winery.
“The experience has changed but people seem to think for the better,” Papps says. “We either have people sitting down at a table in the Cottage kitchen or sitting in the Cottage lounge in front of the fire. Customers really get a sense of a small artisan winery with all our wine being made on site and a personally unique experience.”
If weather and time permits, they also take visitors to see the winery. There is no cost for tastings.
POONAWATTA - EDEN VALLEY
You’d be hard pressed to find scenery as jaw-dropping as the tree-framed drive winding its way to the Poonawatta homestead in Eden Valley. There, Andrew Holt, his wife Michelle and their lovely family host tastings of their range, including Poonawatta’s flagship wine The 1880 Shiraz (this year is the 140th anniversary of their small shiraz vineyard – even more reason to visit).
Visitors are usually seated on their veranda (with blue wrens and their friendly dogs Chelsea and Oscar) or inside around their spectacular wooden table. It’s as real as it gets. The family has a new cellar door on the horizon (planned to open in 2021) so make the most of this holistic experience while it lasts.
ADELAIDE HILLS
LEKO WINES/KOERNER - LENSWOOD
If you’re familiar with the Koerner Wine brand, chances are you’ve heard of LEKO. It’s the Adelaide Hills sister brand to Koerner, and brothers Damon and Jono Koerner are excited to open the doors to their new tasting space.
Winemaker Damon (the winner of the national 2019 Young Gun of Wine award) and his wife Maddy purchased the Lenswood property which is now home to their winery and newly opened tasting space.
Their family has a long history living and owning vineyards in the Northern hills area so their love for the region runs deep. Damon developed a passion for the Adelaide Hills during a decade as a viticulturist in the region. He and Maddy live next door so are more than happy to host wine tastings (through the Koerner and LEKO ranges) in the winery and barrel shed (formerly home to an apple packing facility).
Make like a cool cat, take a seat at the wooden bar (Damon’s handiwork) and taste over a cheese platter, tunes and banter. Their wines are award-winning stuff and have a tendency to sell out fast. The LEKO 2018 Chardonnay is all kinds of French-style class. The 2018 Pinot Noir is a winner too. Keep your eyes peeled for their Gamay – it’ll hit the portfolio over the next couple of years.
Private tastings are $20 per head, which is redeemable on the purchase of six bottles or more (per person). koernerwine.com.au/collections/leko-wine
GOLDEN CHILD WINES - KUITPO
The Hamilton family doesn’t have a cellar door (yet) but they host private tastings at their Kuitpo vineyard so that they can throw a vineyard in for good measure.
“In inclement weather, we do them at our winemaking space in the Vale,” winemaker James Hamilton says.
Golden Child share the space with SOMOS Wines and are known to do joint tastings if the stars and calendars align.
“We usually charge $20 per head. This includes generous pours, no time limit and some bread and cheese (or a platter for larger groups). I’ll sometimes drag Dad along to talk about his vines,” Hamilton says.
Now that’s one for the bucket list.
THE OTHER RIGHT - BASKET RANGE
Here’s an oxymoron for you: Alex Schulkin is a wine scientist who makes untamed wine. And he does it beautifully. The wine researcher (originally from Israel) juggles Australian Wine Research Institute life with The Other Right, the fun little label he and wife Galit Shachaf kicked off in 2012.
Their fruit is sourced from vineyards across the Adelaide Hills (plus some wild-grown shiraz they fell in love with at Sellicks Hill). The couple does not use additives so the wines evolve slowly, according to their natural rhythm, and although Schulkin uses fewer tools in the winemaking process, attention to detail is paramount.
The results can be surprising. “We made the Moonshine (orange viognier) as a challenge,” Schulkin says. “To change the perception about the wine.”
Let your perceptions be flexed with a tasting in the pair’s Basket Range shed. No pretence, just great booze and hospitality. “There is no monetary cost involved. What is required is simply shooting us an email or otherwise getting in touch,” Schulkin says.
“Most of the time we either have some wine in bottle or in barrel, so there is always something to taste around our shed.”
CLARE VALLEY
MATRIARCH AND ROGUE - CLARE
Winemaker Marnie Roberts launched a cellar door by appointment-only experience last Saturday. It was a decision she made after social distancing rules made her rethink her approach to tastings at her tiny space on Clare’s main drag.
“We are so small we can only host six people at a time so I am now offering tastings one-on-one with me (up to six people at a time) for a flight of five wines with a small tasting plate,” she says. “It means 50 minutes to chat, ask any questions and enjoy the wines.”
Her range of alternative varieties is stellar and Roberts is a hoot so expect plenty of laughs. Tastings are hosted every Saturday and Sunday at noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm and 4pm for $10/person.
ADELINA - CLARE
Polish Hill River riesling, Watervale riesling, chardonnay, arneis, dolcetto, nebbiolo, barbera, oh my. Best of all, you get an up-close-an personal with Adelina’s main man Col McBryde and his partner Jennie Gardner.
McBryde was the winner of the national Young Gun of Wine award in 2009 and is full of knowledge and enthusiastic charm. The Adelina vineyard is in Clare’s Springfarm subregion (near Wendouree).
“We’ve been here in Clare for 18 years,” McBryde says. “During a tasting I’ll open a set of wines that I think are appropriate for the day and time.” It all happens in the winery around an informal tasting table. “We’re small and a bit antiquated but you’ll learn something about the vineyards and what we do (and don’t do) in the winery.” There is no cost for tastings.
ELDREDGE VINEYARDS - SPRING GULLY WINE JOURNEY
A full-day guided experience that takes you in to the lives, wineries, barrel sheds and tasting rooms of Eldredge Vineyards (where you train your palate and learn the lingo), Sussex Squire Wines (where you’ll venture into the vineyard), Matriarch & Rogue for a winery tasting and barrel samples, and a picnic with stunning Clare views.
From $1500/day, book via eldredge.com.au
LIMESTONE COAST
GREY-SMITH WINES - COONAWARRA / MT GAMBIER
Ulrich Grey-Smith is quite the creative character and a talented winemaker to boot. His Grey-Smith Wines NV Blanc de Blanc Coonawarra took out the 2019 Best Sparkling Wine Trophy in the Limestone Coast Wine Show and he also makes a Blanc de Blanc and a chardonnay using Mount Gambier fruit.
He is thrilled to pour it during tastings at a property smack bang in the middle of Coonawarra’s precinct (8 Helen St) and often sets up his Land Rover as a bar. He used the recent social distanced downtime as a chance to practise his skills on the saxophone so, if you’re lucky, you might be treated to a performance while you taste.
$50/group of four (redeemable on purchase of a six-pack). grey-smith.com.au
LAND OF TOMORROW WINES - WRATTONBULLY
The Harris family has called their special patch of Wrattonbully land home for more than a decade. Susie Harris and her brother-in-law Russell are the current custodians of the land, and pour their hand-picked, wild fermented, basket pressed wines for visitors to their Tasting Hut perched on the on the edge of their vineyard.
It is framed by towering red gums which whisper with tales of seasons gone by. “You can enjoy tasting our wines near a camp fire (in winter) with cheese platters available and marshmallows for roasting,” Harris says. It’s a magical place, especially beneath your feet. Many-a marine fossil calls the region home and the vineyard is just 15km from the World Heritage-listed Naracoorte Caves. Tastings cost $15 per person, with the cost refunded on purchases of six or more bottles of wine.
BANKS THARGO WINES - PENOLA
Jon and Heather Kidman own and operate a successful vineyard and farm, and are proud of the grapes they produce.
In 2010, the pair went about converting an old car shed into their quaint cellar door, where tastings are by appointment only. “For us it’s a great system,” Jon Kidman says. “Some people are frightened by appointment-only cellar doors but they shouldn’t be. It sounds very exclusive, but it’s the opposite. There’s a phone number on the door so if people do turn up they just need to call it. We’re always here – usually out in the vines.”
Customers are surprised when Kidman arrives to the cellar door driving a tractor, or straight from the cattle yards. Customers enjoy the laid-back welcome and no-frills approach to enjoying quality wine.
YALUMBA THE MENZIES ESTATE - COONAWARRA
Yalumba’s Menzies Wine Room is a large tasting space (with adjacent accommodation) where the historic brand’s premium Limestone Coast wines can be sampled. The tasting is made up of three cabernets from Coonawarra: the Sanctum, The Cigar and The Menzies, as well as the FSW8B Botrytis Viognier. It’s a pretty spot surrounded by a natural revegetation trail (take a stroll once you’re done sipping).
Yalumba requests that visitors email to let them know you plan to visit.
By appointment only Mon – Fri, 8737 3603, menzies@yalumba.com, yalumba.com
LANGHORNE CREEK
THE PAWN WINE CO - LANGHORNE CREEK / ADELAIDE HILLS
Winemaker and director Tom Keelan hosts wine tastings at Pawn Wine Co’s winery in Langhorne Creek, or in the Macclesfield vineyard. “Generally, the vineyard is more a late spring and summer thing while, in these winter months, it’s better snuggling up to some oak in the shed,” he says.
“The Forfat is pretty casual and normally involves a tour of the winery, a tasting of current range and some prerelease oak and/or tank tastings.”
Tastings are for a minimum of eight people and a maximum of 20, and run for about one hour. Cheese and/or mezze platters can be pre-ordered. A $10 a person cover charge is credited on any sales.
Call or email Tom to book. 0438 373 247, tom@thepawn.com.au, thepawn.com.au
RIVERLAND
BASSHAM WINES - BARMERA
There’s nothing like tasting wine with a vineyard view. Especially if it’s the organic one from which the little beauties were plucked. Bruce and Val Bassham have a 42.5ha certified organic vineyard consisting of chardonnay, shiraz, viognier, nero d’avola, montepulciano, lagrein, vermentino, fiano, durif, saperavi, petit manseng and Canadian muscat. In total, (including their 14ha Heritage vineyard), they grow more than 27 alternative varieties. Bookings are essential during the week, but not on weekends. There is no cost.
SPOOK HILL - CADELL
Tastings with vigneron and winemaker Jock Gordon are by appointment only and take place at the Cadell property. Expect approachable shiraz, grenache, petit verdot, cabernet sauvignon, mourvedre/durif and barbera/shiraz with a bit of history thrown into the mix. Spook Hill is home to the local cemetery so there’s plenty of history to discuss while you taste. There is no charge for tastings.