Restaurant review: Secrets by the Parade, Norwood

This new Adelaide restaurant has a happy-hour-style offer on Coffin Bay oysters but with a difference.

Secrets by the Parade is a new seafood restuarant

It’s been a long time between drinks and seafood at Secrets by the Sea for me … maybe four years. So when there’s a Lane Lois Sparkling Oyster Shot starter on offer, at its new sister restaurant, Secrets by the Parade at Norwood, I fall for it hook, line and sinker.

I’ve tasted a Bloody Mary oyster shot which is also on the menu. But a sparkling oyster shot sounds intriguing. I’m willing to give it a shot, actually, make that two – the minimum order.

To my surprise I am presented with a full glass of The Lane Lois Blanc de Blancs and two world-famous Coffin Bay natural oysters, plus a wedge of lemon.

I ask our friendly waiter, Andrew, what the deal is. By the way, $14 for the lot – when the fizz by itself is $11 – is a pretty good deal.

But back to the question: Why aren’t said shots in shot glasses? Andrew explains there are “no rules” and some diners dunk their oysters in the bubbles and knock ’em back. I choose to keep them separated and tip and sip. The oysters are delectably creamy and consummately complemented by the class in a glass that is Lois. I follow with one of my partner’s oysters Kilpatrick. Salty, sweet and tangy, delicious.

Secrets by the Parade is a new seafood restuarant

Secrets by the Parade is a new seafood restuarant

There are two seafood platters designed to be shared by two; including one with Moreton Bay bugs and lobster tails but we pick two mains.

Our first choice is the Secrets Trio. With lightly beer battered King George whiting, a grilled prawn skewer and salt and pepper calamari, Andrew tells me it’s the most popular dish. It also has to be one of the largest.

The trio is served on a kingsize bed of chips – which like the seafood are a cut-above what you’ll find in the best gastropubs – and comes with a zesty “secret sauce” and lemon wedge. Mostly leaves, drizzled with balsamic glaze, an accompanying “garden salad” is garden variety, but the only ordinary thing on the plate.

For our second main we decide to try something other than seafood. There’s northern Italian-style pasta and dishes “from the grill”.

We pick a chicken breast stuffed with pumpkin and fetta, arancini rice, spinach and roast capsicum. The stuffing, which is like a hearty meal in itself, is more-ish, but the chicken – again, a generous portion, is a little on the dry side. It’s served with tasty green vegetables (broccolini and broad beans), roast potatoes and a sauce. When I inquire about it, saying it is like a cream rose sauce, Andrew says he believes it may have some ingredients often found in Asian cuisine. It has been made by Thai chefs but the recipe is, he says, motioning at the restaurant’s name on the wall, secret.

SA Weekend food review Secrets By The Parade

We finish our meal by sharing a tiramisu made in-house. Andrew says it’s the 300-year-old traditional recipe with the addition of a secret ingredient, a liqueur, which he readily shares with me when I tell him about my Frangelico tiramisu. Secrets’ mix of mascarpone, Savoiardi biscuits dipped in espresso and Kahlua, hits the right spot.

The chocolate wafer sticks are unnecessary embellishments because its sophisticated take on the classic sets it apart from the sickly sweets all too often passed off as tiramisu.

Andrew tells us the restaurant was jam-packed the previous evening but it’s a quiet Sunday night, which has been scrapped from the opening hours. We are the only diners, besides a group.

When we arrived, Andrew noted it’s our first visit. When I tell him I know Secrets by the Sea at Henley he says everything about the two is exactly the same. He’s talking about the menu.

It’s some time since I have been to the beachside restaurant, yet I remember, if you’re lucky enough to be seated by the windows overlooking the ocean, it’s a stunning view at sunset. By comparison, we are looking out on to traffic on The Parade. With mostly white walls, the front of the restaurant is also blank canvas.

Some artwork or photographs depicting those sunsets would be a welcome addition and play a part in preventing it from remaining one of Norwood’s best kept secrets on any day.

59A The Parade, Norwood

secretsbythe
parade.com.au

Main courses

$29.90-$50.90

Open

Lunch Tue-Sun

Dinner Tue-Sat

Must try

Lane Lois Sparkling Oyster Shot

Secrets Trio

Verdict

Food 15/20

Ambience 12/20

Service 16/20

Value 16/20

Overall 15/20

As a guide, scores indicate:

1-9 Fail; 10-11 Satisfactory;
12-14 Recommended; 15-16 Very Good; 17-18 Outstanding;
19-20 World Class

delicious.com.au/eatout