Out for a duck — Bespoke, at the Adelaide Oval Hotel
A spectacular roasted bird is reason enough to visit the more relaxed of two restaurants in the new Oval hotel, writes Simon Wilkinson.
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We South Aussies are a parochial bunch. We love a local success story and our sporting heroes. And we love the Adelaide Oval.
Even those who couldn’t give a toss about what’s happening on the playing field can appreciate staying in swish accommodation looking out over parklands and the cathedral, and dining in two new restaurants that are unequivocal in their messaging about putting SA first.
Cleverly integrated into the new Oval hotel, the more up-market Five Regions and user-friendly brasserie Bespoke have taken over the space that was formerly Hill of Grace, meaning that, unlike the outward-facing rooms, they are blessed with prime views of the hallowed turf.
The former offers a bold concept that shifts to a different region every two months, with a single set menu inspired by that area’s produce and matched beverages from a single label.
The larger Bespoke, on the other hand, is far less prescriptive. You can eat and drink pretty much anything, from breakfast through to dinner, seven days a week.
The space is broken into two defined zones.
A more casual bar area has high tables, a repurposed wall of wine (left over from HOG) and an oversized TV screen which no doubt is an asset come match day. The strip closer to the window, however, is more opulent. Hard floors turn to plush carpets, tables are clothed and the mix of booths and well-cushioned seats are built for comfort.
These are early days for a project of this size and some small and easily fixed details still need work – like the gin that is presented with crappy half-melted ice cubes and missing the garnish. Or the beer selection that, even allowing for the oval’s allegiance to one brewing concern, would not cut the mustard in an average front bar. More staff training will help the service find its rhythm, and ensure cutlery and wine are brought to the table before the food.
Brisbane chef Paul Lewis is responsible for overseeing both restaurants and the trickle-down of concepts and ingredients is obvious at Bespoke. Smoke and fire, pickling and a smattering of native ingredients are all in play.
If anything, it could be more vocal in pushing the local connections. I’d certainly be mentioning the provenance of hard-to-source Kangaroo Island scallops that are sliced raw and touched by the faintest waft of smoke to leave them translucent and as luxurious as a silken sheet. They are spread over a thick pressed stack of fried potato.
Cured sardines (from Port Lincoln, presumably) are laid on a thin slice of sourdough toast spread with wild fennel butter but none of these stand a chance when up against a big blob of sweet, jammy tomato relish. Boston Bay pork belly, loin and other parts unknown are bound in a fried croquette accompanied by a sauce gribiche and strands of pickled celery. A bistro classic handled with aplomb.
After a longer-than-usual break between courses, larger plates arrive and all eyes turn to the spectacle of the duck for two, a significant investment at $86. Half a dry-aged bird has been smoked and roasted while brushing with a glaze of Maxwell honey that gives the skin a lacquer the colour of dark chocolate. Dissected into manageable portions but still on the bone, it is served on a glazed platter with broken semolina and wilted spinach that might have been better to the side. Less daunting to eat is a coal-roasted fillet of red snapper, just starting to char at the edges, slathered with a macadamia and green harissa, resting on bush tomato yoghurt and surrounded by pickled kohlrabi and greens including the native succulent karkalla.
Two slabs of lamb ribs, that need more heat or time to really sizzle, play on the Sunday roast tradition with river mint sauce, peas and a beetroot jam.
Desserts relive autumn glories with a pear and blueberry frangipane tart, as well as an apple mille feuille that, instead of the usual layered creation, has been “deconstructed” into chunks of poached fruit and blocks of flaky pastry like a sausage roll minus the filling. Perhaps confusion about the seasons this year isn’t limited to footy and cricket.
Restaurants in hotels have their own particular challenges, catering to their in-house guests at the same time as attracting outside customers without a visible presence. With its special place in our psyche, however, the oval could be on a winner.
