South Australia’s 50 most influential people of food and wine
WHETHER you’re at the restaurant everyone is talking about or cooking dinner, your food choices are shaped by other people. Here’s the 50 most influential people in SA food and wine.
WHETHER it’s dining out at the restaurant everyone is talking about, or cooking dinner for the kids, your eating and drinking choices are wider than ever.
Luckily, in South Australia, these choices are influenced by a whole bunch of passionate, energetic and visionary people, whether operating alone or as leaders of their companies.
Here is our choices of the 50 heaviest hitters, plus a few extra siblings or partners where appropriate.
RESTAURANTS
Walter Ventura, restaurant owner
You won’t find Walter Ventura rattling the pans or waiting tables. This little-known impresario does his best work behind the scenes, matchmaking new properties with the right personnel and the right themes. His restaurant influence has grown to more than 20 venues, from chains Charminar and Kwik Stix, to trend-setting favourites such as Mesa Lunga, Ruby Red Flamingo, Lucky Lupita’s and, most recently, Gin Long. With more in the pipeline, he’s arguably our most influential hospitality figure.
Simon Kardachi, restaurant owner
The man with the golden touch. Press Food and Wine, a collaboration between Kardachi, chef Andrew Davies and other partners, was a game-changer in Adelaide, its formula of excellent food in a laid-back, communal setting one that many others have followed. Winner of our Advertiser Restaurant of the Year in 2012, it’s still as popular as ever. It’s the same story at up-market pizza/tapas bars Melt and Melt CBD, and The Pot Food and Wine, in the inner-south. Next on the drawing board is a bar and up-market burger shack in Peel St.
Sally Neville, CEO, Restaurant and Catering Association SA
Long-time chief of the state’s Restaurant and Catering Association, Neville is a powerful advocate for her industry, whether it is lobbying government for a better deal on penalty rates or promoting the virtues of SA’s dining culture. She took on the role more than a decade ago after 20 years running her own businesses, so no surprise that she is a much-needed steady hand at a time of financial pressure for many members.
Duncan Welgemoed, owner/chef Bistro Dom
Small restaurant, big impression. Since taking over Bistro Dom two years ago, South African-born, UK-trained Welgemoed has turned his 40-seat CBD diner into a hub for like-minded conspirators from fields stretching from agriculture to the arts. He has been instrumental in the creation of Lola’s Pergola, the riverside club and feasting venue that looks set to be a hit of the upcoming Adelaide Festival. Somehow still finds time to cook the food that saw him named last year’s Advertiser Chef of the Year.
Jock Zonfrillo, owner/chef Orana
Australia’s native ingredients are finally being appreciated for their distinctive flavours as well as the ethical argument for eating what grows naturally, rather than through agriculture. Leading the charge is Zonfrillo, the charismatic Scotsman whose restaurant Orana shows the possibilities of using leaves, berries, flowers and weeds, many from our own backyard, in a 20-plus-course masterwork that has excited food-lovers around the country. Expect to hear much more about Orana.
Cheong Liew
While now in semi-retirement, Cheong’s influence continues to be felt in restaurant and home kitchens across the land. As a pioneer of East-meets-West cooking, he showed that ingredients and techniques from different cultures could successfully be melded together in a way that sat perfectly with the nation’s cultural mix. Cheong was also instrumental in establishing Adelaide’s reputation as a culinary leader with restaurants such as Neddy’s and The Grange.
TREND SETTERS
Josh Baker
Poster boy for the new breed of young entrepreneurs who have shown that with a good concept and the right connections you don’t need massive backing. Started with a narrow sliver of space in Leigh St to open Coffee Branch, a business he describes as a bar without the drinks. Then went around the corner to be part of an actual bar, the fabulous Clever Little Tailor. Watch for what comes next.
Rob Dinnen and Rowan Edwards (owners Udaberri)
As you sit back with your craft beer and schmick cocktail in some cosy little nook, remember that it isn’t that long ago that small bars in Adelaide were few and far between. Udaberri, inspired by the owners’ experiences in the north of Spain, was a revelation when it opened and preceded changes to the licensing laws that made similar premises easier to get off the ground.
Joe Noone (Founder, Fork on the Road)
Food vans were already on a roll but the idea of bringing them together for a lunchtime smorgasbord gave the movement extra impetus. Joe Noone had seen a similar event in the U.S. and worked with Splash Adelaide to orchestrate a gathering, first in Victoria Square, and then in other open spaces around the city.
Advertiser critics
Our team of reviewers adjudicate without fear or favour in their assessment of the best restaurants, bars and other places to eat and drink. That’s why the annual Advertiser Food Guideand its related awards are valued by the industry as a true mark of excellence and achievement.
RETAIL/MARKETS
Rosalie Rotolo-Hassan (Botega Rotolo)
Grew up surrounded by the cheeses, smallgoods and other delicacies of her parents’ shop in the Central Market. With their help, established her own business, Botega Rotolo in Norwood, with a large shop and supply network to many restaurants. Has now expanded nationally with a mix of retail and wholesale outlets in Sydney, Melbourne, Perth and Hobart.
Roberto Cardone (Cibo)
Public face of the brand that introduced many South Australians to proper espresso coffee for the first time. With partners Salvatore Pepe, Angelo Inglese and Claudio Ferraro, Cardone started the legendary Cibo Ristorante in North Adelaide, before opening a small coffee bar in Rundle St in 2000. The restaurant is gone but there are now 16 Cibo Espressos around Adelaide and two in Brisbane. Look out for the range of Cibo ready-made meals in supermarket coolers.
Zannie Flanagan (Farmers’ market pioneer)
Flanagan started the state’s first large-scale farmers’ market at Willunga and nurtured it to the stage it was recognised as one of Australia’s best. She then took these learnings to the city and became founder of the market at the Adelaide Showgrounds where thousands of shoppers now gather each Sunday morning. Last year she helped to start the Market Shed on Holland organic market in the city where she has a bakery stall.
Judy Potter (chair, Central Mark Authority)
The task of reinvigorating our beloved Central Markethas been handed to the former SA Great CEO who also chairs the Adelaide Fringe and Botanic Gardens. The market, with its broad mix of traders and strongly held opinions, will test all her experience. With the authorities first CEO resigning, and the second on extended leave, she is under pressure to show this new management model can work.
Russell Markham (Chief executive, Foodland)
The chief executive of the self-proclaimed “Mighty South Aussies” might keep a low profile but he leads a group of 115 independent supermarkets that take it right up to the two national retail giants in this state. He has successfully pushed the group’s “local first” message, with greater support for SA growers and manufacturers and fundraising for community groups.
Angelo Demasi (Chief executive, Adelaide Produce Market)
This is a job for an early-riser. Much of the state’s fresh fruit and veg — more than 250,000 tonnes of it a year — goes through the Adelaide Produce Market in the wee hours before it heads out to greengrocers, restaurants — and other public markets. Demasi oversees an operation worth $750 million annually to the wholesalers and growers there.
Yazan Akeel (Owner Ecotel)
The Aladdin’s Cave of pots, pans and other cookware in Gilbert St only hints at the scale of this business built from the ground up by Akeel. Ecotel supplies crockery, cutlery, kitchen equipment, clothing and more through Australia, Asia and the Middle East, with hotels, not restaurants, now where the big money is. Also started Dolce & Co dessert bar with third outlet to open soon.
MANUFACTURERS
Dr Tim and Glenn Cooper (Coopers)
These two fifth-generation family members are the driving forces behind the recent growth of Coopers, the largest Australian-owned brewer. The company now produces more than 70 million litres of beer a year, with NSW sales nearly equal to those in its home state, helped along by chairman and national sales director Glenn’s entrepreneurial spirit. Tim is managing director and, as chief brewer, ensures the revered ales taste better than ever.
Vili Milisits (Vili’s bakery)
The story of the Hungarian immigrant who had the audacious idea of putting proper beef into a meat pie is well known. Vili’s pies and pasties are now sold in Europe, the U.S. and Asia, as well as interstate where they have made inroads against local favourites. The other reason we love Vili’s, of course, is the cafe that’s open 24 hours a day for that late-night hunger cruncher.
Anthony Paech (Beerenberg)
Whether it is slathering strawberry jam on your morning toast or dolloping tomato sauce on that snag, there’s a fair chance Beerenberg is on the label. As well as lending his name to the sauce in the company’s new personalised branding, Anthony is Beerenberg’s managing director, with siblings Robert and Sally also helping to oversee operations and expand the company internationally. He is also chair of Food SA.
Alister and Simon Haigh (Haigh’s Chocolates)
From Easter to anniversaries, Haigh’s chocolate is the affordable luxury that South Australians can call their own. But word is spreading. Under the leadership of brothers and joint managing directors Alister and Simon, Haigh’s now has as many stores in Melbourne as Adelaide.
Kris Lloyd (Woodside Cheese Wrights)
Owner and creative force behind the fabulous goat and milk products of Woodside Cheese Wrights. However, her influence goes far beyond that irresistible creamy chevre or camembert. She is founder of CheeseFest, the only event of its kind in the country, established a local specialist cheesemaker authority to promote and provide training, and is a member of related boards, including SA Tourism. A true leader and innovator in her industry.
Maurice Crotti (San Remo)
The man behind the red packets that you’ll find in most home pantries — and not just in this state. San Remo, which was started by the Crotti family in 1936, now sends its spaghetti, penne and lasagna throughout Australia, as well as exporting to 35 countries in Asia and Europe ... even Italy.
Mark Laucke (Laucke Flour Mills)
The third-generation miller has overseen major changes to the family company since taking over, upgrading technology to cater for a wide range of grains such as rye and spelt, with an emphasis on organic products and home baking. The flour of choice in many SA home and restaurant kitchens.
Ulli Spranz (B.-d. Farm Paris Creek)
Paris Creek’s organic and bio-dynamic yoghurt and other products are now stocked in supermarkets around the country. Not bad for husband-and-wife dairy farmers who started with a herd of 40 cows on their pristine patch on the Fleurieu Peninsula. Ulli’s work in growing the company and its output has been recognised with a string of business awards.
AMBASSADORS
Maggie Beer (Cook, author, businesswoman)
With her warm nature and easy laugh, Maggie has become one of Australia’s most popular food personalities — a profile that she uses to sing the praises of her beloved Barossa and the rest of SA. As well as many TV appearances, especially as a regular judge on MasterChef, she is constantly in demand as a speaker, especially since being named Senior Australian of the Year in 2010. Her eponymous range of gourmet produce is sold Australia-wide and also exported.
Simon Bryant (Chef, author, co-director Tasting Australia)
His new gig with Tasting Australia makes it more official but Simon Bryant has been noisily spruiking the state for many years now. Whether on TV in The Cook and the Chef or through many other media and public roles, he is a powerful advocate for good food and those who grow it, moreso if it comes from his own patch in SA.
Paul Henry (Wine marketer, co-director Tasting Australia)
Former boss of marketing for Wine Australia, Henry continues the promotion and development of our labels on the international market through his own company. He is behind the powerful “Origins” theme for this year’s TA and has brought the prestigious Langton’s Classification tasting here for the first time.
Poh Ling Yeow (TV cook, author, artist)
The multi-talented, effervescent Poh can’t sit still for too long. Since her appearance on the first, mega-rating MasterChef, where she finished runner-up, she has appeared in three series of Poh’s Kitchen, written a book and staged regular exhibitions of her artwork. This year she has new projects in the pipeline, including another book. Stay tuned.
Callum Hann (TV cook, author)
Another MasterChef runner-up, Callum has published two recipe books aimed at starter cooks and established Sprout Cooking School. Both tie in with his passion for providing better food education and practical training to help young Australians stay healthy and fend for themselves.
Amanda James Pritchard (Director, Adelaide Food & Wine Festival)
Tenacious founder of Adelaide’s “unofficial” food festival that launched last year with minimal resources but a whole load of community goodwill. The future of the 2014 event has been assured following a successful plea for money via crowd funding.
Stephen Yarwood (Lord Mayor)
Since his election in 2010, Yarwood has overseen changes to the city that have made it a more vibrant and varied place to eat and drink. Laneways have been brought to life, unloved properties refurbished, young entrepreneurs encouraged to give it a go. The Splash Adelaide program has promoted everything from major street closures to lone baristas. More of it please.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD
Darren Thomas (Chief executive Thomas Foods International)
The dynamic chief executive of this family-owned meat processor and exporter has engineered a major rebranding from the old T & R Pastoral that was co-founded by his father. The Thomas Foods name signals more of a focus on higher-end product and paves the way for greater recognition on retail shelves and restaurant tables. Darren Thomas is also a member of the state’s Economic Development Board and chairman of Brand SA.
Richard Gunner (Feast Fine Foods)
Look in the cool rooms of our finest restaurants and you’re almost certain to find meat from the company of this grazier-cum-butcher. Gunner has worked with leading chefs to introduce new cuts and develop new breeds. He takes a similar approach to his butcher shops which are always among the first to introduce new concepts to the public. Named Adelaide Food Legend in The Advertiser Food Awards last year.
Franz and Stephan Knoll (Barossa Fine Foods)
From a single stall in the Central Market in 1991, Barossa Fine Foods has become a leader in meat and smallgoods, with eight outlets and a string of prestigious national awards. Franz Knoll led the way in establishing and growing the business, with son Stephan also involved in the past decade as general manager.
Michael Angelakis (Seafood king)
A big fish if ever there was one. Michael Angelakis is the public face of his family’s successful ocean-to-kitchen seafood business and a tireless promoter of the state and its bounty through his own TV show and countless public appearances. Legendary for his infectious enthusiasm and generosity.
Andrew Puglisi (Kinkawooka Shellfish)
Remember when you would never cook mussels because they took forever to prepare? Now, as Andrew Puglisi and his company Kinkawooka has shown the nation, there is no excuse. Laconic and likeable, Puglisi has led the charge in promoting the mussel as an easy and delicious seafood alternative using technology that captures them, still living, in a vacuum seal bag. Kinkawooka won the prestigious delicious magazine Producer of the Year title in 2011.
Sam Sarin (Tuna baron)
The state’s southern bluefin tuna industry is expected to be worth up to $300m annually following the recent decision to lift quotas. And the biggest player by far, with a 40p.c. share, is the reclusive Sarin. Also staking a claim to this list is fellow baron Hagen Stehr, whose tuna breeding project could change the industry forever.
AGRICULTURE
Mark Pye (Parilla Premium Potatoes)
Did you know SA grows more potatoes than any other state? And that our biggest spud operation is based in the middle of the flat expanses of the Mallee? Parilla, along with Zerella Fresh which it owns, turn out more than 100,000 tonnes of potatoes a year — as well as growing 40,000 tonnes of onions and 30,000 of carrots. Mark Pye started the venture in 1990, with his father Alan, and now supplies both fresh food and processing companies in Australia and overseas, so there’s a fair chance your next chip might have been grown by them.
Professor Peter Langridge (CEO, Australian Centre for Plant Functional Genomics)
A world leader in research to increase crop production that will help feed an expanding global population. Prof Langridge’s team at the Waite Campus studies the genetic make-up of grains such as wheat and barley, and helps to develop varieties with increased tolerance to drought, pests and disease. Named SA Scientist of the Year in 2011.
Professor Geoff Fincher (Director, ARC Centre of Excellence in Plant Cell Walls)
Research by Prof Fincher and his team has advanced the understanding of how cereal grains develop and their impact on human health. He has led studies to increase the nutrition value of plants and to show that grains with high dietary fibre can reduce the risk of diseases such as diabetes and colorectal cancer. Last year was awarded the world’s leading acknowledgment for his profession, the Thomas Burr Osborne Medal.
WINE
Peter Gago, Head winemaker, Penfolds
The face of Australia’s most famous red wine, Grange, and an inspirational international ambassador for all things Penfolds as well as South Australia’s wine business, he regularly hosts an impressive cast list of political and corporate leaders, royalty, musicians and artists at Magill Estate not only as a Treasury Wine Estates branding exercise but a world showcase for the state.
Chris Hatcher, Head winemaker, Wolf Blass
While the man Wolf Blass will always be associated with the label, the brand is now owned by Treasury Wine Estates, and Barossa based Chris Hatcher has been its director of drinks for many years. He is the incumbent London-based International Wine Challenge red wine maker of the year, and has been instrumental in forging an ongoing global presence for one of SA’s most famous wine brands, establishing a reputation on a fresh and vibrant style of red wine rather than heavy and huge.
Michael Hill, SmithMW and co-proprietor of Shaw+Smith
The more public half (together with cousin Martin Shaw) of one of SA’s most recognisable wines producers, whose Shaw+Smith sauvignon blanc is a style leader here and abroad. He entered an elite collective of worldwide wine experts as Australia’s first Master of Wine, and also is an international wine judge, wine consultant and vocal global advocate for Australian fine wine.
Brian Croser, Industry mentor and winemaker, Tapanappa
A strong-willed leader across both academic and administrative sectors of Australia’s wine industry for more than 40 years, Brian Croser pioneered the Adelaide Hills wine region with the Petaluma company, now under the control of Lion Nathan and Kirin corporations. He has expanded his wine business interests into the US, and while still working with his own original Hills vineyard chardonnay and reds from the Wrattonbully region in the southeast, he continues his mission to find what he coins “distinguished sites” for specific wine varieties.
Stephen and Prue Henschke, Barossa family wine makers, Henschke
Recognised internationally as exemplars of the Barossa Valley’s extraordinary multi-generational winemaking history, the Henschke name is inextricably linked to the Hill of Grace vineyard and its icon SA shiraz that is a celebration of the region’s great old vines. Alongside Stephen as the head winemaker, Prue as the lead viticulturist has been a vocal leader in contemporary vineyard knowledge and an inspiration in organic and biodynamic practice.
Robert Hill Smith Proprietor, Yalumba
As the head of one of Australia’s most successful family run wine producers, Robert Hill Smith oversees a company that spreads its interests from innovative management of warm climate Riverland vineyards to premium Eden Valley (Barossa region) whites and reds all the way to the south east with traditional and modern assets in Wrattonbully and Coonawarra — with a spread of commercial to high end wines to show for it. Yalumba’s role in introducing new varieties to our culture is immeasurable, as is his gentlemanly generosity across the industry.
Jeffrey Grosset, Grosset Wines, Clare
Jeffrey Grosset is internationally recognised as one of Australia’s greatest white wine makers, specifically with the riesling variety. The founder of Grosset Wines based at Auburn in the Clare Valley, he was one of the leaders in the Clare’s influential push to introduce the screwcap closure to the Australian industry in a bid to eliminate spoilage of wines from cork. Screwcaps have now become accepted here and increasingly overseas.
Sue Hodder and Allen Jenkins, Wynns, Coonawarra
Under the guidance of Sue and Allen, huge leaps have been made in the arguments that great wines are made in the vineyard, the pair’s work in the Coonawarra concentrating on gaining a scientific understanding of vines and the ground under them, enabling individual parcels to be separated in the winery before final belnds and single vineyard selections made. Their work in the famous cabernet sauvignon region has been an inspiration to many other producers.
Warren Randall, Entrepreneur, and proprietor, Seppeltsfield
From a winemaking background with major SA brands Warren Randall has established a reputation and record for unstoppable entrepreneurship in the industry, owning vast tracts of vineyard land in McLaren Vale as well as the bulk and fine wine Tinlins production facility. Expanding his interests into the Barossa in 2009 by buying out a share of the Seppeltsfield complex, he now owns the lot as well as valuable associated vineyards and is transforming the historic precinct and winery into a major tourism attraction and modern winemaking hub.