Battambang may not be on every traveller’s radar (myself included), but its rich history, French architecture and vibrant food culture makes it worth venturing off the beaten track.

Nestled in Cambodia’s northwestern “rice bowl” region, Battambang is a city of contrasts. It’s the country’s third-largest city, yet has a sleepy, small-town feel compared to the hustle of Siem Reap or Phnom Penh. The majority of its one million residents live in rural areas, giving the city a laid-back vibe I can’t help but love.

Two days is all you need to explore Battambang’s highlights. The Wat Banan temple complex, often called a smaller Angkor Wat, is a must-see, as is the imposing Dombang Kro Nhoung statue on the city’s outskirts.

A million bats and counting 

Every night, as the sun dips below the horizon, hundreds gather before a towering, unfinished Buddha statue in Battambang’s outskirts. Monkeys swing from its stone fingers to the scaffolding below, yet this isn’t the main attraction. Instead, my attention shifts to a nearby cave entrance where suddenly, millions of bats emerge in a mesmerising, unbroken stream, filling the air with their high-pitched screeches. 

I sit captivated at a streetside bar, a cold lager in one hand, my phone camera at the ready in the other. “This is like nothing I’ve ever seen,” I tell my American companion, who agrees. 

Beautiful yet unsettling, the bat cave is one of Battambang’s must-see wonders. If you visit the Battambang Bat Cave dayside, you’ll also learn of its sombre history as a killing cave during the Khmer Rouge regime, a stark reminder of Cambodia’s tragic past. Picture: Troy Nankervis

A touch of France

Since its founding in the 11th century, Battambang has seen the rise and fall of empires, from Khmer to Siamese to French colonial rule, however it’s the French influence which remains the most visible today.

From colonial architecture and wide boulevards, you’ll spot small bakeries and cafes selling French-inspired coffee, baguettes and pastries. 

Parisian-style lamp posts dot the central Sangke river, a quaint addition which only adds to its charm. Picture: Troy Nankervis

Food, glorious food

Meanwhile, Battambang’s central Phsar Nath Market is filled with all kinds of foods to buy and try, from chicken and pork dishes, freshly picked fruits and sticky mango rice. 

The region’s speciality comes in the form of barbequed rat, which after being caught in the rice fields, is skewered and grilled to perfection in a thick, marinated glaze. 

On this occasion, I politely decline a taste test. Picture: Troy Nankervis

Off the beaten track

One of the best ways to see rural Battambang is via bicycle, and local company Soksabike takes me out of the city to meet local families who’ve spent decades perfecting their craft.

I watch as they make handmade rice paper rolls, banana chips, and sticky rice, and I even try rice wine infused with cobra snakes — I’m told that a sip has spiritual benefits, though I’m still waiting for mine to manifest.

Later, I wander Battambang’s dusty backstreets, full with street art, charming bars and coffee shops, a perfect blend of the old and the new. Picture: Troy Nankervis

A night to remember

My day ends with a home-cooked feast at the home of the Sambath family, a local family who also offer cooking classes. Course after course of Khmer cuisine arrives: black pepper beef with pineapple, a fragrant banana flower chicken salad, and a creamy traditional curry.

The flavours, all freshly sourced from the local market, happily linger in my taste buds as Mr Sambath, the head of the family, shares a blend of happy, heartful and heartbreaking stories about his life, his family and his country. 

He’s most proud of his grandchildren, one of whom waves goodbye as I return to my hotel via TukTuk, a perfect way to wrap up my time in this little gem of a city. Picture: Troy Nankervis

Where to stay?

The four-star Classy Hotel and Spa, complete with pool, sauna and rooftop bar is located directly across from the Sangke River, and is walking distance to the city centre. Double rooms start at $193.

Getting there?

Battambang is three hours by bus ($12) or taxi ($106) from Siem Reap. Vietnam Airlines operates a 12 hour flight from Sydney to Siem Reap, with a three hour stopover in Ho Chi Minh City. I arrived in Battambang via private minibus on Intrepid’s Cambodia Traveller tour, which was a 4.5 hour journey from Phnom Penh. 

Getting around?

Once in Battambang, you can explore the city on foot, by taxi or TukTuk.

The writer was a guest of Intrepid’s Cambodia Traveller tour, which includes two nights’ stay in Battambang.