Sydney Eat Street: Fairfield local area sweet and savoury delights
With some of the most ethnically diverse suburbs in Australia, food is always the common denominator in the Fairfield local area — like 50 cannoli placed inside a super-sized cannoli shell.
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Pasticceria Caruso
You only get one chance to make a first impression, but with a bit of help from Giuseppe Caruso, owner of Pasticceria Caruso, it’s sure to be a grand one.
For more than 15 years, he’s been lifting the game on celebratory sweetness, not just with an abundance of single-serve pastries but also lavish occasion cakes.
“Going back 25 years or so, in an Italian household, if you had a birthday, you always got a continental cake — chocolate and vanilla sponge, chocolate custard, vanilla custard, maybe a liqueur in the middle, almond sides and white trim,” Giuseppe says.
“Look through old photos, and every birthday will have that cake. It’s almost funny.”
Now though, he says, people are really after extravagant creations such as elaborate and often whimsical themed creations, made with multiple tiers, ornate designs, and detailed embellishments.
Or, when size matters, Giuseppe also makes a decadent round mille-fogli (delicate layers of puff pastry and cream) measuring 1m in diameter, which is then covered with strawberries (45 punnets) and raspberries (25 punnets).
It’s so impressive that he even has customers in Melbourne who pay for Caruso to deliver it. Zikes.
But probably one of his most famous creations is the ‘bazooka’ — a huge cannoli shell filled with 50 standard-sized cannoli.
“There’s even a little surprise in the centre,” he says, adding that once all the cannoli are gone, there’s still a wall of profiteroles to be had.
Magnifico.
— Headquartered in Smithfield; pasticceriacaruso.com.au
Goliath Coffee Roasters
Small but mighty Goliath Coffee Roasters has hit its mark on the artisan bean scene, not necessarily to take on the big guys but to champion the many boutique producers in Western Sydney.
Like most burgeoning businesses, Goliath first came to fruition as a passion project by hospitality veteran and co-owner David DiPietrantonio.
Having developed a palette for single-origin blends, he decided to start making his own, so in 2013, he left the cafe-side behind and began roasting beans in his father’s warehouse, where he developed a reputation for producing both unique single-origin blends and consistent signature blends.
Though Goliath had developed a decent wholesale and subscription base, David and wife Clarissa decided it was time to expand.
“The cafe was the next logical step,” Clarissa says.
“You do get to a point where you can only put (the coffee) in front of someone’s face for so long that you realise you need to do something else for them to come. We needed visibility.”
With David having worked on the north shore, that seemed like an obvious choice for their business.
“We wanted to be back where we grew up; the area needs people trying to do things,” Clarissa says.
They opened their outlet with its adjoining roastery four years ago, quickly becoming a go-to destination not just for the impeccable coffee.
“It’s for the experience,” David says.
“We really get to engage with our customers. Many people come in for their regular order, but we’ll also suggest something different. It’s like-minded people just talking about coffee, but we also get a good gauge of what’s working.”
While coffee is the couple’s main focus, they’re also committed to their community and have established “Friendly Collaborations”, such as Cello who uses Goliath beans in their coffee liqueur and a coffee blend specifically made to go with the fresh pastries, they get from The Doughnut Mum.
It’s all part of the Goliath coffee experience.
— 1199 The Horsley Drive, Wetherill Park; goliathcoffee.com.au
Grano
The geranium-filled wheelbarrow, wooden crates overflowing with fresh herbs, and an open door awaiting your arrival; the sign says Grano, but it might as well be every Italian Nonna’s house.
Walk inside and the alluring smell of basil, garlic and olive oil, simmering in mouth-watering sauces, hint at the home-cooked meal to come — or that’s at least what it will taste like as all these recipes have been passed down through generations.
Italian or not, Anna and Nick Ferraro have created a universally nostalgic space. It just feels like home; that is, if home has a wood-fired oven.
Take a seat at one of the green leather banquettes above, which is the requisite painting of a gondolier, or to one of the white-tiled tables (complete with mismatched vinyl-covered chairs) in the covered alfresco dining area.
The menu is based on the simple Southern Italian dishes that are big on flavour minus the fuss. Start off with a loaded an antipasto board; that should get you going before tucking into the Granchio e crema – pappardelle with blue swimmer crab, or the beef tortellini. There’s also a range of gnocchi and risotto on offer.
Mains range from four-hour baked lamb shank to pan-fried salted codfish. There is, of course, an abundance of pizza, in the imposing wood-fire oven, but the undisputed hero of the menu is the grilled seafood platter, Grano’s piatto de mar, with whole lobster (grilled or Mornay), Balmain bugs, king prawns, barramundi, whole swimmer crab and oh so much more ($90pp). It’ll be tough but try to hold out (or loosen the belt) for dessert as Nonna’s Tiramisu is not to be missed. Buon appetito.
— 1009 Canley Vale Rd, Wetherill Park; grano.co
Alma’s Middle Eastern Steakhouse
Like Moses parting The Red Sea, Sydney’s options for delectable Middle Eastern fare are equally divided — there’s either formal and refined or rushed and muddled. It’s that sweet spot in between that’s missing.
Fortunately, Alma’s has navigated their way into that elusive niche, offering an array of familiar and inventive dishes that reflect the many flavours of Middle Eastern cuisine.
With a view of the open kitchen, the decor is a blend of brown leather, sage green and dark woods. Regal yet understated. Outdoors the cushioned low wooden lounge and tables with gemstone-coloured lamps and hanging plants are the spot of choice.
For the uninitiated and indecisive, order the Sharing Banquet. It includes a hot and cold mezze selection and choice between barramundi, lamb mansaf, or monte grain-fed New Yorker.
Should you prefer ala carte, order some house favourites such as garlic prawns, sujuk meatballs, and the always popular dips and pickle plate.
As Alma’s is known for its steaks, you’ll have plenty of options to choose from, including a variety of Monte Grain Fed, Wagyu Grain Fed and Dry-aged cuts. The lamb Mansaf is another winner. The succulent lamb shank slow-cooked for 12-hours in traditional spices sitting on a layer of bulgur pilar is so tender you can practically cut it with a spoon. Scoop some out on your plate or load a fork-full on their housemade sourdough pita.
Unique to Alma’s is their selection of four clever and creative Middle Eastern dumplings: spiced mincemeat, slow-cooked lamb, crab and prawn mince, and spiced mushroom and lentil. Finish the meal off on a sweet note.
A good choice is the delicate rosewater and white chocolate panna cotta with pomegranate sauce or traditional Knafeh Pan, halloumi cheese, layered between kataifi pastry with rose syrup and pecan caramel ice cream. Pair that with an Arabic coffee and consider your journey complete.
— 1187 The Horsley Drive, Wetherill Park; almaskitchen.com.au
Lao Village
Hard to imagine a time when we weren’t tethered to our phones, but Lao Village certainly would, as they’ve become a Fairfield favourite since opening in 1983, the year that the first mobile phone was introduced.
As the first Laotian restaurant in the area, they introduced Fairfield to Lao pork sausages, Thai-style paw-paw salad, barbecue ox tongue and crunchy fried rice with Lao style ham, their signature dishes for the past 40 years.
— 29 Dale St, Fairfield; facebook.com/laovillage
Frank’s Lebanese Restaurant
The queue for a seat is a sure sign that you’re onto something good. Fans of Frank’s Middle Eastern fare have been coming from near and far since it opened in 1992.
In an era when businesses come and go, owner Frank Abdo has had the good fortune of seeing multiple generations pass through his door, all keen to return again and again for the generous portions and variety of cold and hot mezze share-plates, Lebanese pizzas, vegetarian mains including baked pumpkin kibbeh, baked potato souffle, and of course charcoal chickens.
The large serving, easily shared among your whole crew, make Frank’s an excellent value for money, but it’s the convivial atmosphere that makes this local fave a real win.
— 16 Smart St, Fairfield; frankslebanesefood.com.au
The Factoria
A sure-fire cure for Monday-itis, this bright and cheery cafe with crisp white and lemon-yellow trimming, sturdy wood tables, and all the trappings of a country store will clear those morning cobwebs in no time.
Grab a freshly-baked muffin and a cup of Will & Co coffee or stay for breakfast … or lunch.
Both menus offer light and substantial options. Morning meals include dishes such as chilled Acai bowls with fresh fruit and muesli, smoked salmon and avocado-topped toast, and a big brekkie, otherwise known as the “fatty” Factoria.
The lunch is equally balanced with meat, fish and vegetarian options, but a true standout is the $18 express menu with seven different dishes to choose from, including grilled WA Basa fillet, hand-rolled gnocchi, chicken schnitzel and the surprisingly light marinated sirloin steak with pan-tossed green beans and topped with a fried egg, all of which is available for dine-in or takeaway.
— 1009 Canley Vale Rd, Wetherill Park; thefactoria.co
Fairfield RSL – La Tratt and Summer House
Forget any warm beer and pub grub; Fairfield RSL’s mid-2010s renovation transformed its utilitarian dining outlets into polished dining destinations.
La Tratt
A far cry from its origins as a pizzeria, La Tratt is now an upscale white-linen Italian restaurant with moody candlelit lighting and sleek earth-tone decor. The menu consists of multi-regional Italian dishes inspired by the published words of renowned chefs, travel writing and the age-old kitchen reference book, “The Silver Spoon”.
La Tratt also boasts a rooftop herb garden and on-site beehives that produce the honey served with the prosciutto-wrapped figs, gorgonzola, and entree. Follow that with a pasta dish, such as the potato gnocchi and slipper lobster, hand-cut pappardelle pasta, and slow-cooked goat and tomato ragu.
Favourites on the main menu grain-fed Riverina rib eye tomahawk (serves two), slow-braised pork cheeks, confit of Dutton Park duck pie, and sous-vide of Aquna [sic]farmed Murray cod. Needless to say, their desserts are equally decadent, so just go ahead and indulge with a tasting platter for two that includes coffee panna cotta, Italian doughnuts, red and white wine confit pears and more.
Summer House
Channelling the vibes of a beach vacation, Summer House is designed to reflect the essence of a relaxing space away from the hectic pace of daily life. With a decor that follows a palette of neutral colours with wide wicker chairs, dark wood tables, bamboo accents, and paintings of tropical flora and fauna.
The menu, like the surrounds, is casual and relaxed with polished versions of summertime favourites such as beer-battered fish and chips, Jersey burgers, and house-smoked BBQ ribs, as well as Caesar and garden salads. With the wooden fans whirring above, you’ll swear you just heard the sounds of crashing waves.
— 14 Anzac Ave, Fairfield; fairfieldrsl.com.au
WHAT’S FRESH
Viand
Entranced by the flavours, fragrances and colours of Thai cuisine, chef Annita Potters has travelled the world to helm the kitchens of Thai restaurants, but it’s her experience working with David Thompson, an award-winning chef and restaurateur, including Michelin-starred Thai restaurants Nahm in London and Bangkok hat she credits for nurturing this passion.
Taking over the Puntino site, and expansive two-level space in Woolloomooloo, Viand celebrates artistry in all its forms — from the theatre of the open kitchen on the ground floor to the artists’ collective upstairs.
The refined menu is complemented by an equally impressive drinks menu, including premium teas from Apotheca by Anthia. At the moment Viand is open for dinner only (Wednesday- Saturday from 6.30pm) but expanded hours are on the table.
— 41 Crown St, Woolloomooloo; viand.club
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