Umbria review, Clare Valley best restaurants | delicious.SA: Regional 50

The rugged stone walls and twisted beams of Umbria’s expanded abode make it easy to imagine you have magically travelled to an eatery in the backblocks of Italy.

Food at Umbria restaurant in Clare

308b Main North Rd, Clare

[phone]

umbriarestaurant.com.au

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Clare’s little trattoria has grown bigger. Taking over the old chaff mill next door (previously Seed), while still keeping its original home, Umbria now has room to better cope with the demand for bookings.

And the rugged stone walls and twisted beams of the mill are a good match for owner/chef Edoardo Strappa’s rustic food, making it easy to imagine you have magically travelled to an eatery in the backblocks of Italy.

A glass of sangiovese (local or imported) and bowl of the ravioli will strengthen the illusion, even if the little packages are filled with braised kangaroo (!) and not wild boar. Finished with sauteed mushrooms and a dash of cream, it’s a dish that has become Edoardo’s signature, and rightly so.

Other recommended options include the gnocchetti (made with wholemeal flour as opposed to the potato of gnocchi) with Italian sausages and beans or a confit duck leg marinated in herbs and orange.

Napoletana-style pizzas are a more recent addition to the menu, the dough proved for at least 24 hours but cooked in a stone oven. Toppings show traditional Italian restraint with flavour combinations including the simple tomato, cheese and basil of a margherita and the “maialona” that with sausage, salami and cacciatore is Tuscany’s answer to meatlovers.

Look out for a new outdoor zone for summer dining.

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• Hours: L Fri-Sat D Tue-Sat
• Bill: E $6.50-$20.50 M $19.50-$33.50 D $9-$10.50
• Wine: Wine list plus BYO | Corkage $19
• Chef: Edoardo Strappa