Pipers of Penola review, South East best restaurants | delicious.SA: Regional 50

The welcome is always warm at this quaint restaurant on a quiet Penola side street.

A dish at Pipers of Penola.

58 Riddoch Street, Penola

[phone]

pipersofpenola.com.au

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The welcome is always warm at this quaint restaurant on a quiet Penola side street.

Head chef Simon Bowen and his wife Erika transformed an early-1900s Methodist church into their white timber restaurant and they’re proud to show it off. The beautiful rural structure is packed with charm and history; like the heavy wooden bar rescued from the old Mount Gambier post office.

On the plate, there’s a sense of nostalgia too – presented in creative, comforting dishes. The small but beautiful a la carte menu focuses on regional produce with a few French and delicate Asian twists.

Plump seared scallops resting on confit leek with black bean vinaigrette is a favourite among local winemakers, and roasted Brisbane Valley quail with lime, chilli and pickled chilli begs to be paired with a local drop (of which there are plenty on the impressive regional and European wine and fortified menu).

Like the entrees, the mains menu is limited to five options but the attention to detail is exquisite. A bowl of seared King George whiting and Coffin Bay clams laze in a hammock of squid ink fettuccine, while grilled free range Berkshire Beachport pork belly with mustard gnocchi, braised sugarloaf cabbage, Shepherds Lane lardons and brandy apple is as comforting as it gets.

Leave room for dessert, as the likes of pear clafoutis with almond cream and coconut sorbet begs for a second stomach. Top end country hospitality doesn’t get much better.

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• Hours: D Tue-Sat
• Bill: E $19-$30 M $38-$42 D $19-$20
• Wine: Wine list plus BYO | Corkage $15
• Chef: Simon Bowen